johnc

I would set the plugs to the stock gap.

HowlerMonkey's last post in this thread was about a week ago. None of the admins are deleting posts from this thread.

Silocone hose is not receommended for use with gasoline. Use Viton hose.

And you didn't even say thanks...

That's funny! "Bolt-on" means you need a $5,000 lathe and $10,000 mill to bolt it on. Of course your'e gong to encounter a problem. Accept it.

Yes he's crazy and yes he's serious.

The single best thing you can do for the handling of you car is to install a LSD of some kind, so you're on the right track. Either the OBX diff or finding a used CLSD for your R200 are the cheapest options available. If you go thorugh the OBX unit per the thread in the Driveline FAQ you should be OK.

The Pacesetter can be made to work better if you build a real merge collector (instead of the "Y" pipe they ship) and position the merge so that the rear three cylinders have an average effective length (from the back of the valve) of 29" to the actual merge point of the collector you build.

Just sold one for $50. It fits just fine in the USPS Priority Mail medium box.

I'm also a past owner of a W126 chassis. I talked with my mechanic about buying a W140 and he steered me away for the following main reasons: 1. MB decided to "go green" in the late 1980s (thanks Jurgen Shrump - the same guy who thought buying Chrysler was a good idea) and as part of that they made their whole wiring system more easily recyclable and quicker to degrade in landfills. The result is that W140 cars are starting to have lots and lots of electrical issues. 2. The HVAC system was over designed and under-built to compete with the brilliance of Lexus. Fan motors fail easily and its a $2,000 job to replace. And once the center stack is disassembled and reassembled its never the same. It creaks, groans, and pops for the rest of its life. 3. Rust issues as mentioned above as a result of the change in rust proofing to meet the new green agenda. 4. Plastics were also changed to be easier to recycle and degrade quicker in landfills.

In the SCCA Solo world the tech is pretty lack (compared to club racing). Whether you get questioned depends more on the individual doing the tech then the actual rules. That being said, most harness bar installations I've seen in S30s and S130s are unsafe. The bar needs to handle the load of one or two 175lb. person(s) experiencing a 20G deceleration. You do the math. Also, the shoulder harnesses should be as short as possible, mounting so they are straight back off the driver's shoulders (looking from above), go through specifically designed holes in the race seat, and at no more then a 20 degree up or down angle from level with the driver's shoulders (looking from the side).

Its a Chinese copy of the Pacesetter header. Fine for what it is and equal to any of the other low priced headers available for the L6.

For your plans (track dog and street car) that chassis is junk. Scrap it (after salvaging the good body panels) and find another to start your build from.

You have two options: 1. Leave the stock valve in place, unmolested. 2. Remove or gut the stock valve and replace it with an adjustable valve. In either case you need to take the car out on a straight, level road and safely test the brake balance yourself.

When Kenny Bernstien broke the 300mph barrier in March 1982 he claimed that they figured the car needed to lose 20 lbs to get to that speed. Dale Armstrong told him it would cost about $10,000 to take that weight out of the car, so instead, Kenny went on a diet and a month later lost the 20lbs. The next event he went 300+ mph in the 1/4 mile.

The people that know are probably retired or dead.

So very, very true.

I don't use loctite on the threads. I do use grease on the splines.

The rears will be at least 1 1/2" too short.

Actually, it can, depending on a lot of things. We have no idea from their test what was exactly meant by "open pipes." Did they have dumps pointing at the ground? Did they have an open exhaust that pointed at the back of the rear bumper? Did they remove a nice merge collector to create the open pipes? Was the open pipes a single or a dual? Did they just unbolt the whole exhaust from the headers? Did they have exhaust cutouts in front of the muffler? We just don't know what they did because they have chosen to not provid much information.

Well, no we can't deduce that. This was a modified Mustang that compared an open exhaust and a bunch of different aftermarket muflfers. The results were that there was 2% performance difference between all the mufflers and an open exhaust. That shows that on that particualr car the mufflers chosen stayed out of the way - and that's a good thing. They didn't improve the performance and they didn't restrict the performance. Now, if they had started with a stock Mustang with the stock exhaust and then did the test... who knows.

And the Mustang muffler comparison test: The horsepower range was from 373hp to 365hp. 8 hp. The difference is 2% which is well with the margin of error for the chassis dyno they used. What that test tells me (and what they say in the text of the article) is that the muffler chosen made no difference in performance.

Scoring points buddy...

Swapping spindles from side-to-side is generally a bad idea. You'll probabyl have huge steering issues and create a lot of bump steer. Read up on Ackerman and Bump Steer.

There's no reason to put any effort into making the head flow better when you're going to screw that all up by installing a round port header.