rudypoochris

He is using a 7.5" rim though, not 8.5". If I understand correctly. That should change things.

Is there a define plus to the 7 main bearing design of the I6 over the 4 of the V6? Just wondering.

I'm sorry about your issues, but no offense, it isn't their fault if they don't fit. A 7.5" +20 is far from ideal for our cars. Its no biggie though since you can use a spacer. Wheels can be a real pain to get figured out right, but once it is all set up properly you should be happy. Hang in there.

I believe the plasma coated bores are in lieu of cylinder liners. I do not know how it works.

Whatever you got. So basically the control arms are quite long for a 240z?

What tires were on that S30, same for the SC300? The track difference is a decent amount.

What I don't get is that the 0-60 time is claimed 3.5 seconds... it weight 3800lbs and has only 473hp. I am kind of skeptical. Also it runs the ring in a claimed 7:42 or so. That is really amazing if it can truly pull that off. As fast as a Z06 with 30 less HP and an extra 700lbs? I am skeptical.

Out of curiosity is this the same suspension setup as the early SC400's or is there some inherent difference?

Does it run? Are the rails unbent? Does it drive perfectly? Those few things will make a large difference, especially the rails. If you really do have unbent completely rust free rails that is a pretty big plus, despite the fact that it is a relatively cheap fix, it isn't necessarily the easiest.

Oh, I sewht Braap was getting at. Yes, that is a good point. Those issues can be fixed by cutting and rewelding the knuckle side of the cross member side attachment points... that would probably make them a failiure point though. Hmmm. I need to read my suspension book some.

I agree that the head gasket issue probably isn't a very big deal.

There isn't anything inherently wrong with any motor, everything has its plus and minuses. I like V8's they are cheap, plentiful, and have huge after market support. Which are the primary reasons I chose to use one. That motor is a perfectly fine motor for an engine swap imho. It just won't be as cheap to modify to turn huge numbers I would think. Once you hit around 350-400hp I would imagine you would be all on your own. An engine like an SBF or SBC on the other hand can go very far using common aftermarket parts. Spend some money and try it out. The Super coupes are every where in the JY. You can buy the M90 online for under $150 usually in fine condition... which brings one to the point, well why not just do the same with a V8? Stick an M90 on it. It is all about options, price, etc. Maybe this engine hasn't caught on yet just because it hasn't caught on, maybe there are hidden gremlins that need to be figured out... I think your going to have to be the one to find out yourself! I do want a super coupe though just for fun. Come on, 330ftlbs!

Correct me if I am wrong, but Braap is saying our 240z's have much less distance from frame rail to outer fender lip than an SC300. Thus the wheel would be positioned way far out of the fender compared to stock?

I was hoping you guys could clear this up for me. So you get one of those punch and flare dies from harbor freight or where ever. Basically it is a bolt that clamps down two sides that have a cutting edge and a raised lip on them, correct? You drill a hole large than the die bolt through the sheet metal. You fix both havles on each side and then torque down using a standard wrench? And voila? So this can essentially be done with the fenders on, albeit it will be a PITA? Thanks guys!

I would think that might give you clearance issues at the frame rail and possibly the perch. You can always space it out though, never space it in.

Well I know a 1.6L Fiat Marea and I think the current base model Honda Civic do it (only drove for a couple of seconds). On my EEC-IV Ford I have never noticed any loss of response, no matter what is happening incl. braking. Its just frustrating and I am wondering why it happens.

I am just asking a general question here about some vehicles I have driven that were EFI equipped. I have noticed on downshifts some cars require you to almost floor the gas peddle to get the revs back up. These cars display nromal throttle response at idle and the rest of the time, but when it comes to downshifting it seems like there is a huge delay. What causes this? Are these cars pulling timing to save transmissions? I always lift off the gas completely then reapply it, maybe that is an issue for these EFI systems, staying on the gas partially may help. In anycase if anyone knows what I am talking about I would appreciate any information as this has been bugging me for a long time (I don't own any vehicles that do this, but I do drive them on occasion and it makes me want to shoot myself).

I would just deal direct with the Rota North American Rep... He can be found at rotawheel.com or rotausa.com. We are currently in the process of ordering up a group buy (25+ people, it is in motion) for 17x9.5" -19 RB's. I find him okay to deal with, he is clearly busy and there is a bit of a language gap, but so far so good. I figure he is as close to the top as I am going to get. I have delt with 18racing before, I didn't like their follow up personally. Seemed like they talked more than they could deliver.

Spacers and adapters... I assume you guys are talking about running 30mm-50mm adapters. I personally wouldn't, I would be afraid to personally, your much better off getting a wheel that fits correctly imho. In an 8.5" and 9.5" size from measurements I have taken on an 240z (also Watanabe uses this specification), I would think 4.5" of backspacing is ideal. That leaves you with -6 front and -19 rear... Adapting from a +25/+30 setup... that is a 31mm front adapter and a 49mm rear adapter. Hope that helps.

Not everyone wants a VLSD for such amount of work/price.

Word, thanks for the heads up.

I am trying to find out what a longnose R200 LSD with a 4.375:1 ratio is worth? Any information would be very appreciated. I currently have one dissasembled and just found out it will cost around $250 in parts to put it back together and adjust it and +/- $200 in labor. Thats all fine, but the ratio is too steep for me, so I am trying to get an estimate on its value. Thanks!

I am very interested, depends alot on the price though. But jot me down for one now in either case.

No way.

73mm is the numbew want right? I shall ask in the 17x8.5 thread if the center fit. EDIT: Seems like the Rota RB's in 17x8.5" are fitting just fine in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126343 In either case, if someone knows the diameter of the 260/280z hub bores that would be great. I know the 240z is 73mm from searching, but I couldn't find if the 280z was the same.