rudypoochris

Cool, I am very intrested

Why does everyone assume the 240z IRS (i guess 260z in this case) can't handle power? How much are you planning on putting through that RB26??

But then he would have a 280z not a 240z....

You wouldn't happen to work for Genentech would you?

Thanks jt and Ed260z. I thought the circlip was standard on all of the diffs. The circlip is accesable from inside the diff on the right and left sides or inside the carrier. Sorry if these questions seem rudimentary, I just ismply don't know that much about it. Maybe it is just me who doesn't know much about it, but if there are others maybe someone can post simply the facts into an FAQ so people might benefit.

What styles? Pictures?.... Price???

I don't think alot of those items may be removed, and if they were you would probably be sitting in a stripped out car, where as the 240z would weigh about the same and not be stripped out. If you want to be fair about the weight shaving, I think if you removed stuff from both cars to the same degree the 240z would still be lighter. And yes alot of people would not have L28ET's if the 280zx turbo didn't exist, but a motor doesn't make a car inherently good. I still like 280zx's, I just don't agree with your arguments.

In reference to an 87-89 300zxt CLSD now, those stock 84-89 cv's look like they would bolt right up to a 280z companion flange with the four bolt pattern, is the issue on the diff side with the splines then?

Ok, now I don't know what the different between stub axle and circlip...

Wonder why it is L28 powered instead of a VG30DETT?

But then how do I bolt the CV shaft to the 240z/280z companion flange, or can I use a different companion flange in the 240z rear strut tubes?

Thanks for the replies and links. I am going to go this route on my 72' 240z: 280z Stub Axles -> 280z Companion flanges -> 280z 1/2 Shafts with non-grease U's (if i can find them) -> 280z Diff stub -> R200 CLSD from a 87 300zxt Whew intense.

uh-o (in reference to the custom coil over photos) did I do my bumpstops wrong or did you? I see your bumpstop is pointing up with the base of the cone over the gland nut, mine is exactly the opposite, the base of the cone is at the top of the strut where the spring meets the car, with the cone pointing down. Did I do it wrong?

Thanks for clarification. Okay so, If i were to swap in 280z stub axles (which should fit in a 240z rear strut perfectly, right?) I would also have to match the new stub axle to the correct companion flange, which would also be sourced from a 280z, not the 240z. The 240z and 280z have identical bolt patterns on the companion flange I assume, so the same diff's can be used, correct? So where the diff swaping gets tricky is acctually at the diff stub axles where the spline counts don't match up with the 280z u-joint 1/2 shafts, unless it is a 300zxt's 87-89 lsd non ss. Whew that was alot. I did search, but sorry I just need clarification piecing it all together. Thanks.

I have been searching around recently concerning the swap of 280z stub axles into a 240z's strut. Basically I am lost in terminology. I understand that the stub axle is the short axle that fits in the strut and connects the 1/2 shaft to the wheels, but what is a companion flange? Is the companion flange simply the 4 bolt flat surface that the half shafts bolt onto on the strut side of the IRS?? If so, what are the short splined shafts that fit into the sides of the diff called that bolt to the half shafts? Sorry for all the newb questions.

This might be a newb question do the stub axles really cost $700?

Im lost stony is saying they will bolt in with the u-joint halves and z-monster says they won't? Z-monster what 1/2 shaft do you use w/o modification, the ZX shafts with cv's?

Wow so, that thread ended in disaster! I acctually agree with alot of what RCNSC said though, except his manner in going about it was too bold/blunt for my tastes. I am of course biased towards the 240z, as I can understand that many are biased towards the 280zx or whatever they own. But it is important that we all just step back and see what fits the desired role best. If you want a light, quick, super sporty ride, or a racer with a distinct sacrifice in comfort get a 240z. If you are more into cruising, plush interior, creature comforts, but would like to mash it too, and aren't concerned about the fastest speeds and best handleing get a 280zx. The styling is totally up to the individual though. While i believe most people can agree a 240z looks generally nicer then a 280zx, it doesn't make it true for everyone. Personally I like the 240z more, but the 280zx has grown on me alot and hits a sweet spot the 240z doesn't. I still probably would never buy one because I am not intrested in comfort what so ever, but I can appreciate that they were great cars for their time and still are very good cars.

If you are sure it will match up with the 240z-280z u-joint half shafts I would be very intrested in getting one. Can you check shipping to Oakland, CA 94618? Thanks!

Did you try summitracing.com?

OH MY GOD. I didn't know that a non tunnel hull boat could go that fast!

I am doing a 5.0L HO ford 302, just to throw that out there, they are lighter then the stock 6 also.