ZT-R

Yea I am running it. Very happy so far. I did the CAS wheel install before the engine was running. Some people say its fine with the oem wheel, others have break up issues but I will do what AEM says. On a pretty stock setup yes you will retain the ignitor but just depends on what setup your running. My newer setup will be running the AEM twin fire and the Smart coils (built in ignitor). Let me know if you have any questions, I might be of some assistance, but I'm no pro.

At any speed you probably will not get cooler air to the back by the inspection lid. These are hot motors and all that air is going to be flowing out of his vented lids at speeds.

Still waiting on a few bits and piece to come in so I can start some wiring.

Yea basically the same response i got. We are trying to iron out the details of how to hook up the speed sensor to my RB motorset.

PRC condensor.

About 6 six weeks probably. Having issues trying to get some custom pistons. Robbie usually use flat top pistons in his builds but my head is a little bigger so im going with a piston that has a 6.7cc dome that should put me around a 8.4:1. The block is ready and waiting for them. Then shipping is about 4-5 weeks

I emailed EZ. The other one is from japan and its like 2g plus you have to ship them a core so its like 3 months.

Yes he did Joel. Gotta love that exchange rate, when its in our favor. Yea but you know what they say about fitment, the better fitment you have the better the weld looks. That and a pot of coffee and no breakfast is like tig welding with Parkinton's Disease. Im thinking about trading in my miller syngro 200 for a dynasty or something with some frequency control.

All Welded.

Attached is a PDF of the ignitor swap on the NICO site for all those non-members. Addenum to RB20:25:26 Igniter swap to VG30:Z32:J30 Igniter : RB20DET : RB25DET : RB26DETT Forum.pdf

Well the only problem is that, at least this particular one, would be that it is engine specific as far as where the bungs where welded on your intake. I used (3) 45 degree bends off mine (8an) so there is no give or anything whatsoever being that they are bends and not flex hose or anything. If your bungs where 1/16 or less or so in a different spot it wouldnt line up. It really wasnt hard to make. All i did was got the 45 degree fittings and three bungs, screwed the bungs into the fittings and onto the manifold. put a plate across them to ensure best level/angle whatever, then put a 2" pipe and positioned it so i could get to the fittings to tighten them and still get my valve cover bolts off without taking this off. Then tacked the bungs in place and carefully took the fittings off, welded them in place, then drilled out the center of the bung with a drill bit. Then took 2.25" pipe and cut it out to fit around the 2" pipe so i could weld the radiator cap on. then welded the small bung on the bottom of the pipe in the front. Granted I think I overkilled it with the sizes when i made this thing in the first place. probably would be fine with 6an or even 4an bungs and a 8 or 10 return. I used 8an and 12an return.. But no overheating issues and im still running the stock thermostat...

Some more tinkering while I wait... More to come...

Oh hell, I didnt realize until now you were in SC. Tube and Hoses here in Beaufort, but you can bend it yourself too unless you need like a 90.

I should be ok. I took measurements of my rb26 and we compensated for the rb30 deck height. Thanks though. Well I got bored today so i make an on engine tank for my GT cooling mod, instead of being firewall mounted.

Bend it all the time. Do you have any local hose making shops? some carquests make hoses, but I dont think they have stuff to bend the pipe.

Let me know if you want the wiring color. I put a quick weatherpack quick connect for the ground so i could get the wires out.

I personally used an infinity J30 but i belive that is the same one. You can get the harness and the ignitor on ebay for a few bux. I think i paid 28 shipped for mine. ill take some pics if you like i have my wiring harness on a pegboard in my living room sitting next to me, lol.

Knock it out there dave, I did mine in about 20 mins. Tune her! I cant wait. lol

Pics are sort of deceiving. With the engine at its 10 degree slant the compressor sits 1 inch above the intake valve cover, should be ok.

I gave him measurements of what hits and what doesnt, so hopefully it willnt but it sure looks like there is no way thats going to fit. Time will tell..

That swap is easy, I did that on mine too. Stony you need a NICO account

After having replaced all my hardlines with braided and heat wrapped ones I WOULD NEVER DO IT AGAIN. Keep the OEM hard lines on there.

Just a small teaser of what is to come...

Thats correct. At first glance it doesn't look like it does, but it does.