jerryb

There is a elbow that NISMO supplies that will replce the stock FPR.

Its not the shaft....will go to check the tranny mount next. Its tight up there and maybe the rubber mount is just moving more than I expected. TRHanx

Under harder acceleration I get a tremendous noise comming from the driveline. I think its the driveshaft and believe I know what causing it...when I had the driveshaft built to size they made it longer than I asked for. It still fit but just barely so the spline is almost all the way in with little play...perhaps 1/8". Im guessing under throtle, tranny and shaft move closer together and the sound is the driveshaft slamming into the tranny....does this make sense? I will drop the shaft tonight and if this is the case how much free space should I leave for the spline to slide....1/2" or more......3/4"???? Thanx in advance for your advice!! Learning the hard way!!

Well...I did it and was very pleased with the results. After days of tring to idle learn my PFC/fc-edit on an pull through MAF I was about ready to throw the whole thing away. So I moved the MAF to a push through location, reset the PFC and started the car. It started instantly, idle learned the first time and so I went for a drive!!! MY first! YAAHOO. Its far from a perfect tune but now I have a starting point. It never stalled once and I run an atmospheric bov. The spring was a bit light and it would start to blow at around 3500rpm but the car still ran well....! It did run very rich, idled at an A/F ratio of 11.3 with little increase at higher RPM but a few quick adjustments brought that somewhat in line Anyway I guess its too early to make a final call but I am optimistic that all will go well. Thanx Dave! Jerry

Im ok on all accounts....PFC with FC-edit, with plenty of space before TB .....good straight spot....and wide band. Thanx!!

Me?? check it out here http://www.photoshow.com/view/Tj2vW3ws

Im gonna try Blow throu... My RB20 stalls when the electric fan turns on and/or off. After alot of silly electrical troubleshooting efforts I noticed a significant MAF milivolt reading with the engine off and the fan on!!!! I went back to logical thinking 101 class and asked myself what does the MAF do....measure air! And when dose the car stall.... when the rad fan goes on or off. Its quite funny as I can prevent the stalling by placing a face cloth over the air cleaner.....but its hard to keep there when driving the car:icon10:! I know understand its because of my current set up....short pipe straight off the turbo inlet....into the MAF into the air cleaner....into a big ass electrical fan. I guess it creates a big spike that the PFC cant handle so off it goes. So its either build a shield or move the MAF....I may eventualy do both but first the MAF! By moving the MAF there will also be more room so I can replace the smallish foam air cleaner with a larger K&N air cleaner. Ill let you know how it goes but my search on all the NISSAN forums indicates a better running setup. On another funny note...my car would stop dead every time I shut the passanger door???? The ground to the PFC was hooked up to a random but solid ground wire. It turned out this wire was part of the interior light switch so when I closed the door I lost the ground!!!!:biggrin: haha..doh! The quest continues!

Im using one of those Walbro 255L/H fuel pumps for my RB20. I set it to 43 PSI but over a an hour of operation my pressure drops to 20PSI??? At this point if I start to increase pressure the car starts to run rough. With a pressure decrease I see my A/F drop as well. Is this a bum fuel pump...or should I look for something else?? My battery voltage is stable.... Any ideas are appreciated thanx

Thanx so much!!

Super....much appreciated! I can wait......

Does anyone know the lag value of stock 270cc RB20det injectors?? I need to make a correction in my Power FC thanx

Did the RB20s have this same problem?...or was it a RB26 design issue?

IT WAS A GROUND!!! MAF was wired ok. I spliced an extra ground off the MAF and attached it to engine...bingo. the FC started up right away. Once I changed the injector and MAF settings the car went into a smooth smoke free idle! Its istill rich and needs a tune but its a 1000% better. Now I gota find out why the FC is not keeping the changes in memory. It sets back to default when I shut the car off... BTW I found this site that appears to be a great FC / Skyline / electronics resource... http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/

Call Rob at R&T autoworks in NC...he has one...a used one...! No idea how much but he just confirmed it. 910-944-1323

Sick!

Well the engine starts on a heart beat ..every time.... but runs very rich. Whats odd is that it runs nearly the same way on all my ECUs....chipped or stock! The only ECU it doesnt run on is the FC. It even runs the same if I change back to the stock MAF...(vs Z32)... I found that my MAF voltage reading is much less than half of what it should be. The FC commander doesnt even show a voltage reading and Apexi tells me that the FC is more sensitive and wont run on low MAF voltage...or any lower than normal signal voltage..... and its a common problem...especialy with RX7s. Apexi sugests it may be a ground...which I will track tonight. Any other possibile causes I should consider?? Amazing...the stock ECU will run on a milivolts reading ( mind you not well) but the FC wont even recognize a signal. Speaks volumes for OEM!

Excellent News....thanx for the update.

Yup I was thinking of installing something like a 6 inch stright through in the back first and the following up with a resonator in the middle if its not quiet enough. The last thing I want is that interior drone. Nothing worse than going for a long drive and feeling shell shocked afterwards. Done that have the T-shirt. Thanx all.

After what seemed like forever...I turned the key today for the first time....and it started up immediately!!!! :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: We couldnt believe it....one second and it ran instantly.....VERY VERY rich. Now the question....it ran on all the ECUs ,,,,,,Chipped, unchipped and Blitz....but the minute I hooked up the Power FC nothing....it wasnt reading any voltage from the MAF:?: : ...what the heck? Mind you the directions are in Japanese......but any ideas. Has anyone seen this problem. Oh ya that 3" pipe sounded SWEEET.....but I think ....know....I will need a muffler. Any suggestions on a system that will be very quiet and fit the back end of a 240.....I was looking at vibrant and magnaflow. Both have ultra quiet mufflers but thats a matter of opinion. Ya !

Hey I just noticed the RB20 Tranny...this is a mechanical setup. The stock Z speedo cable hooks right up to it....You may need a differtnt color gear but that shouldnt be a problem..... Anyone have product codes for the RB speedo gears.

One of the gauges is probably set to a parameter that is not supported by your ECU. Try reviewing the gauge selections under "Setup". Turn the gauges on and off to see if that gets it to work. If you can't find which gauge is causing the problem reset the registry with the following procedure... Go to start->Run and type regedit. Go to "HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareVB and VBA Program SettingsNDataScan" and delete the whole NDataScan entry. Close the Registry Editor and try running the software again. It will save the default settings to the registry file.

Sorry....I dont underdstand...... So it is working ....just not all of the functions...?? Is the program reading the ECU number when the car is turned on...?

I know what this feels like!....Nice.....!

No the check light does need to be hooked up....the blaZt cable only has 5 wires.... Not to ask the obvios .....Are you sure you have power? The next step is to follow this procedure ...it will determine if the wiring is correct and help you identify if DATA is flowing...... Use a volt meeter 1. plug the CABLE into the car. Turn ignition on 2. Probe between red and black wire. You should get about 12V. If not, then there is a voltage supply problem.* 3. Probe between the blue wire at the car end and the black wire. You should get about 2.5V and may vary a little. If you have a frequency checker you will get about 154KHz here. 4. Place probe between white and black wire. When you press 'connect' on datascan you should see the voltage on this wire temporarily change. This indicates that the computer is transmitting data to the car. 5. Place the probe between the yellow and black wire and do the same thing. This indicates that the ECU is transmitting data back. If all this works, then it appears the cable is fine, otherwise let me know what stage doesn't work. Jerry

Ive missed two years of track and I cant wait to get it on this year...once or twice.......or more! Hey Ezzie...how is that "small" barn of yours comming along?