jerryb

Thank you

Should the throw out bearing stay in contact with the clutch fingers or does it contact the fingers only when you depress the clutch? Im trying to understand whats going on inside the bell housing. Thanx!

I love it....put me down please!!!!! Just a thought ............ what is the chance of creating a new licence plate light casing....or just a cover that will slip over the current unit? Now that would finish it off just FINE!

Perhaps this will work wothout a booster? ...its sure looks familiar! http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/ds439.pdf and http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/ds439.pdf I too would like to eliminate the booster to further clean up underhood appearances. Im also installing the AZC 6 pots front and 4 pot rear and would like to ensure lots of brake pressure. I just emailed Wilwood to find out if runs with or without and will report.

OK...reverse compatibilty is not as simple... At this point the AZC L28 flywheel will not fit as the flywheel ID ...hole in center....is slightly too small and crank nose will not fit in...1.41" vs 1.37".....but I see no reason why a decent shop couldn't machine out the required material. Once done its a simple bolt on. Now once the clutch housing is installed...the overall height is somewhat different....The distance from crank face to the top of the clutch fingers is about 0.25" shorter for the L28 set-up. Im guessing this is too short and the throwout bearing will not reach with the RB throwout collar. If I remember correctly there are different collars. The overall heignt of the RB20 collar and bearing is 1.955" .....Anybody know which bearing collar is longer and by how much? Overall height in my case should be about 2.25 Diameter and teeth appear the same..bolt pattern is identical Am I missing anything with this "logic" If I can I would very much like to get the AZC 11lb flywheel to fit....The centerforce 2 clutch still has lots of life and I figure it will be a great add on to build revs quicker. Thanx

Im not a straight line guy ........BUT Hands down! That is the sickest Z ever! Love it! Oh ya...my better half says.."WOW!!...thats the nicest one Ive ever seen."

Hey I owned a all black Aztek.....ya it was butt ugly but not as ugly as those two tones. The black hid all he strange lines and creases. I called it my Para-Military Garbage Truck!

Now were talking....and reverse compatibility makes sense. Thank goodness I saved that AZC flywheel and centerforce 2. Sounds like I'll be busy next weekend!

wow what a great looking car! I havent seen one in years and forget how nice it realy was. Thanx for posting the pic Check out this vid...wait to see how the headlights work!

Thanx guys...in the next couple of weeks I will drop my tranny and and try. Will report my findings...

hasnt anyone tried or considered this?

I guess you need to ask your self if all the work and frustrtion is worth a couple hundred bucks in resell? Better yet ask yourself what you need from this beast. If there are a lot of parts and you have the room...grab it. if not...just buy the few partssomewhere else. Ive been down this road and when it was all said and done I owned a bucket of rust and a bunch of parts that didnt work. Mind you it took me about 8 times to figure it out!! HAHA!

ha! The only time you'd do a repair like that is just before you sell the clunker.......

I have downloaded all the PowerFC stuff some time ago and turned it into a Word document...its a great reference. If anyone needs it let me know, I will email to you.

I have a AZC light flywheel sitting on my bench....will it work in a RB20? The diameter is right, the teeth # are the same. It looks like it should work. Before I do further measurements.....off set and such...has anyone tried this swap? It sure looks like it should work? It would save me a few $$....and it is a nice single piece unit! Cheers

I ran a AZC light flywheel on the 3.1L for years. It was completely streetable with a centerforce 2 clutch. Completely! and it rev'd up real quick as well. Over the winter Im putting a light flywheel on my RB20DET as the stock unit is an anchor and the RB revs a bit sluggish. I guess the rb20 lacks the torque to turn that mass quickly...I miss that instant RPM...........

I dont think he is crazy. It is a pretty clean car and from what I can tell from the background this guy probably doesnt need the money but wants to make room for a differents toy. So why not ask for the sky. Hey ... many of us have lots of dough tied into our cars...mostly go fast parts. So why wouldnt some Z nut but this one...dont forget he did have Or Best Offer

If you think Zcars had rust issues your in for an awakening with the baby vette. I dont think Ive seen a solid Opel GT ...OR ANY Opel GTon the road in years! They are great looking cars but knid of small. I prefer the Z. Anyone know of any solid Opel GTs?

Ive seen those on a number of 240s. I cant say for sure but I think Toyota made a wider version for aother model...truck?

I just placed my order for the AZC setup. Gonna go with 6 pot front and 4 pot rear. Why....because I can! Hope they dont dissapoint!

Stuck...perhaps? I guess I better find out because it sure seems odd that the temp is so low. My NISSAN contact tells me that all current thermostats are set at 165.... I hate to think about it as its a beach to get at! Hey anyone know whats so special about the NISMO thermostat.

Hey... I just discovered something....I had the car out today....it was great fall day and around 59F . ....... the engine never warmed up over 143F. ...(per the power FC readout). Isnt this too low? What should a RB20 run at for best performance? Thanx!

I did this swap and had my calipers on the wrong side. Had the exact same problems you are experiencing. After I chnaged sides all went well. Check those calipers.....my bet is they are installed wrong....

I run a Aluminum cross flow I picked up on ebay with a puller fan. All in all a real good deal and nice piece. my RB20 NEVER gets hot with this rad, in fact the only time the fan ever turn in is if Im sitting in traffic. The temp is always stable. To make sure there was no interference with the fan housing I cut the top puly way off the crank pully. It was just extruded out from the crank anway and wasnt a part of the dampener.