280zwitha383

Wow, they sniped the crap out of that thing. It was at $100 with an hour and 45 minutes left and now $3100! PLUS he canceled two different bids for more than $7k because they didn't email him before. If that's a scam then I would be interested in knowing his mentality.

rotating assemblies are interchangeable between traditional sbc and lt1's?!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-Datsun-240-Z-V8_W0QQitemZ270088821925QQihZ017QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Sounds like a personal problem. I'm sorry, I'm just kidding. You are more than likely going to either have to get the wiring sorted out yourself or get someone over there to help you because I'm thinking that you have had a major short somewhere which is unlikely something under the dash but some major wire (probably in the engine bay) like from the alternator to battery or similar. Find the major short and then replace the fusible links and hope for the best. Good luck.

That is slightly impressive. However, the only thing that you really have in common with him is the compression. You have a far superior cam (IMO) and even if you had a single plane it would be somewhat matched with the cam.

I agree. I was just saying if it was ME (and probably if the thing wasn't already built). If I already had the engine and it was complete I would stil change the intake and call it good (enough). Tuning an engine that he is describing might be a bit of a challenge in itself depending on his experience because it just might not run that great at lower rpms. The power to weight will mask these problems more than likely however.

IF you order the mounts for a ZX JTR will give you some basic instruction (what they called a rough draft for the ZX manual). They might send them to you anyway if you order the normal JTR manual and talk to them first. They're pretty nice guys.

BTW, that really is a pretty car you have.

How far are you along with this engine? I would definitely agree about putting a dual plane intake. I'm not really sure that you would ever benefit too much from a single plane intake if in fact you did have stock heads. Also, torque cams are for 4x4 and RV's. You want more hp in these cars because you're going to redline rather quickly and you will predominantly be in a higher power band than a torque cam will offer. You always want to build you engine to perform best in the rpm range that it will spend the most time in. If I were you I would change the pistons and or heads to get you around 9.5:1 compression. Change the cam to say something with atleast .450 lift and atleast 270 duration. This is of course for a very mild build. I would also switch to the trusty performer air gap intake (rpm will do fine if you want to save a few $). You WILL make better power across the board because it will be much better matched.

Well, even though it wasn't really blatant, the point was pretty much that it needed to be lubricated. That is probably unless it is in a bind.

Single plane = higher end power aka horsepower Torque cam = low end power 8.5:1 = no power Put the three together and you have a mismatched setup and the Man above only knows what it will do. In such a light car you may never realize the shortcomings of the engine and I hope this is the case. What kind of heads are you running?

I think it would be generally accepted that you would have better performance with a modified single plane intake (like the victor or victor jr.) than most tpi systems. They are pretty notorious for not doing too much over 4500 or 5000 rpm. You would really just need to figure out the placement of the injectors. This has been done but I don't know who has done it.

Forgive me for being completely out of the know. Are you talking about Ford Festivas? Interesting platform. How is it that you are boosting these engines? Are you using the stock ones or swapping in something else?

Either it's some sort of optical illusion or you have really short legs...

Have you ordered these? I've tried the ones at Autozone (like I said every one on the shelf). If these work then I would be somewhat happier and less dicontent.

And before anybody says just go to the parts store please seriously reconsider as this is the most obvious answer but the tards there don't have any AND this is somewhat of a sore spot. I've tried every single one at O'reilly's, Advance and Autozone. I did find a oil filler cap years ago that fit but I haven't been able to do that again AND the cap has the part #'s on it. There were some gas caps on ebay before but for some reason I didn't get any and now there's one for $38 and I would have to bid on the other. What's the deal?! I know there are a couple dozen of these cars in town, it's not like I'm the only one with them. Why doesn't anyone have a gas cap for them?

Partially true. IF I HAD MONEY it would be a great time to be alive in that aspect anyway.

That is true, swap in the cam with optional springs etc., you will probably end up putting headers on it anyway and you will have a pretty stout little setup. Cheap too.

I've got a Holley 670 Street Avenger and after a few days it will completely empty out and I'll have to either prime it or pour gas into the float. I've replaced the gaskets but I haven't stopped it. Any ideas? It has to be something fairly simple but I can't figure out what.

ah, I was waiting for this one to come back up. I was trying a funky little idea of mine to relocate the struts by drilling new holes in the mount up top. I had been on and off with them several times but for some reason this time I jacked the passenger side up by the A-arm instead of the front differential mount. Messed around with the height a little bit trying to get the bottom of the strut to slip off. Finally I just took the hammer to it (like I had done before when I didn't feel like messing with it) and got it almost off. I got nice and snug in there so I could really get a good grip and a little leverage on the strut and muscled it off only to have the whole back end of the car come crashing down and sandwich my hand between the strut and some part of the brakes (I think, it's kind of a blur) and finally (the strut) semi land on a part of the A-arm while still squashing my hand. Even though I was little short of holding the back of the car up with my pinched hand, I managed with my left hand (I basically had to roll over) to move the jack over a little bit and raised it up enough where I could get out. I was pretty sure my hand was broken and I pulled it and myself out from underneath the car as quickly as I could because it still wasn't very sturdily supported. My had was a little sore but I could still move it with little additional pain. Anyway, I've learned to use jackstands. I used to think they weren't really very necessary because I have always had faith in jacks but if I would have had a jackstand underneath something else I wouldn't have nearly been crushed by my own car.

65531, that number is awefully familiar.... and for some reason I can't open up google at the moment.... I'm scared

An 8" dampener is not really a good indicator. I have a 6" or 6 1/5" on mine, I can't remember. (And it doesn't look anything like the ones above)

Yes, yes.. that way we can rule the streets.

I would also like to point out that you hypocritically ASSume that you are superior because seemingly your car can handle and accelerate. Likewise in a "rednecks" mind their car is just as superior because it can accelerate (more so) in a straight line. A truly enlightened person would appreciate that the persons have built their cars for what they enjoy. Just because you enjoy something someone else doesn't hardly makes you superior; and the fact that you think it does actually makes you somewhat inferior and ignorant (similar to your proverbial "redneck").

oh well, I've been called worse....