280zwitha383

Well shoot, the more I feel around I think there's not that much wrong with it because my other side has a bump in it at the same place it's just very slightly smaller. I'm going to leave it alone and hope for the best.

Well, it's the cartilage that goes straight out from your face. It feels like only part of it is broken and it's weird that it is actually facing the way I got punched. It will move a little bit but not stay where I put it. Any suggestions? I've been biting a towel and putting some pretty good force into it.

I just got punched in the nose and I can feel that the cartilage that would make your nose long is crooked and loose. I can move it a little, probably a lot if I really wanted to but it hurts a bit. Should I try and straighten it?

If I could afford to drive it that long I would absolutely.

I am also amazed at how clean the rear is. It seems like a genuine photo but I don't see anything that would steer it.

Shweeeet:-d

Yes it is a holley and this happened after I changed some jets on it so I'll check the gaskets for sure which really is the most obvious answer. Thanks. A friend of mine told me that his jets in his holley leaked so that's where I got that idea from.

that pretty much said it. Any help?

One Hundred Billlyion Dolllars!!!!!!

ok, my germs! oh, I mean turn.... I was driving into the Autozone parking lot and immediately saw a ford focus ZX3 or something like it which looked like it could actually be fast (I don't really know what gave me that impression or if it really was or not).Anyway while I was walking in, I also immediately notice this 90's thunderbird with the MUFFLERS sticking a foot out the back at the same angle and location as the corners of the bumper. What a friggin tard I thought. So I go in and talk to the guy at the register and ask if it was his ford (focus) and he said no and that his thunderbird is setting outside. So I ask him if he knows what the Focus runs at the track and he said no so, just engaging in conversation, I asked him if he had ran his thunderbird. He smugly replied that it was a lowrider and he couldn't take it to the track. I told him sure he could. Then he said, "It will beat that car you've got with the scoop on it though." (I guess he saw me pulling up). Well I was pissed that someone could claim that and not have a clue what I had. I told him BS and he replied, "I've got a 4.6 liter Mustang GT Engine" I WAS PISSED! I told him that that was a piece of SH*T engine and that I had a 6.2 liter engine and whenver he wanted to race we could put as much money on it as he wanted to. He said well I don't have any money. He was quiet for while after that possibly reflecting on how retarded he was. Then he said, "How did you get that big of an engine in that car" Conversation was over.

ah, I think you're slipping a little on this on Aux.

Well, I had a little problem with them. Seems a backup source isn't used until they charge you account (atleast) twice (that is TWO overdrawn charges). I tried to tell my bank that I wasn't using the account and didn't think I should be charged twice for the same purchase but it didn't matter.

Really?! I didn't know it was THAT cheap. That's definitely money well spent.

Since we're posting a million links, here's this one. A 350 with 90% efficiency AND 6500rpm, which you will not do either with this combination, gives you a little under 600cfm. http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html[url=http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html][/url]

Now don't get discouraged. A stroked 350 is a 4.030" bore (that is a 4" 350 bore 30 thousandths over) and it has a 3.75 stroke which is a 400ci crank but of course they also make aftermarket cranks with 350 journals. Don't take me offensively or anything, I would like to see you stroke your engine since you either have bought or are planning on buying new internals. What exacltly have you already bought? It's not a bad idea to return them for stroker parts. The point is, you're buying all of these things anyway and there is virtually no price difference in the parts. You would probably have to get the machine shop to clearance the block for the larger stroke crank but that's no biggie. Just don't get overwhelmed. Do what you're comfortable with. Ask us whatever you're not sure about, we don't mind.

Well, here's where you need to do your homework before buying. If you have to balance the rotating assembly any way (which is probably around $200), which you do because you have mismatched the parts and completely changed their weight (you should balance it even if you just bought new rods unless they say they are stock weight), you should have bought the stroker crank keep the rods and bought some stroker pistons. It is possible to use stock pistons on a 383 stroker but I can't remeber the combination at the moment. I wasn't trying to explain an engineering term, I was pointing out that your rods are or atlest should be stronger than you think. Now you've lost me.

Tensil, that is stretching, the rod is harder on rods than combustion until you reach roughly 1.5 times your engines designed power. So say your engine was stock with 260hp you will not start to push the limits of your rods until roughly 390hp. Your rods are OVERBUILT in relation to your 260hp because of centrifigul force which stretches them. The reason why this is so is because when your piston reaches the top of its stroke there is nothing to push it back down unless you have a combustion which presses it before it tries to reach equilibroum and then "jerks" back. Of course if you're wanting to crank something to 7.5k then that's a whole different story. I'm not really good at explaining things but I hope this has helped. Engine theory varies from person to person so take anyones advice (even mine) with a grain of salt and research things for yourself. Btw, I ASSume you know that you will have to balance the rotating assembly. So why not stroke it....

PERSONALLY, I would buy a set of used aftermarket heads of X brandname already assembled with appropriate springs, get some ARP bolts on your rods and forget about it. 9.5:1 is usually accepted as the maximum compression for 87 octane gas on iron heads. Add 1 point for aluminum (which would give you 10.5:1)

$2.02 for 87 octane

Must be a brilliant person (or rich). You'd think they could spell bullet.

I think it's funny that we've been going through all of this and the guy that started the thread hasn't even posted another comment Tell me about it, you should try a roller 383 with a 3.90 rearend. You want to talk about a quick-revving engine. I don't have a light on my tach so when I'm racing it's just a play-it-by-ear guess because there's no time to look. Haha, oops, you are completely right and I had to reread it because I KNEW that's what he said. It seems I have helped start up an old argument.

Smaller CI "high revving" engines are not worth the money IMO. You will have to spend extra money on your valvetrain to compensate for the extra stress, when you should be spending money on a bigger CI engine that does not have to rev so much and still make the same and ofter more power AND last longer. RPM's kill engines. 283formyZ, if you already have the 283 ready by all means put it in there. However, if you need to buy it or even spend the money to rebuild it, I would strongly encourage you to start with a 350.

I have to completely disagree. 400 blocks are almost impossible to find. If you know where to fine some let us (nevermind us, let me) know. On that note.For Chevy's, LSx engines are the future. For the rest of the world, forced induction is taking over and amazing things are being done. IMO Forced induction V8's are where it's at and where it has been for a long time.

They don't have a chance. If you look at the steering layout of the ZX , the shaft is right in the way. It would almost have to be a two piece header on the driver's side.

Well shoot. If you've already got the transmission driveshaft etc. etc. You should have just dropped a cheap 350 or 305 in it. It would make more power than most L engines.