280zwitha383

I've heard of doing that before. What do you recommend cutting the groove with?

You probably just need to get the right waterpump. Probably an early 80's would work fine.

Huh, he's the new supervillain?

Haha, the guy doesn't even jump.

I've always thought that as long as you've got the headers pointed downward you should be ok because of the little principal that hot air rises. And that air is pretty hot, so it will be hard for cold air to get into the header unless it's pretty windy. However FWIW, I started my engine the first time with one header down and one header up because of the steering shaft. I didn't let it run for a long time because of what we talked about; but, If you have to let the cam break in I wouldn't do it with the headers pointing up.

It could also be the fuel filter but you would have had to run it pretty low on gas to clog it up that bad. Let us know what the mechanic says. What you're describing is not a matter of tuning. It is a matter of failure. DUN DUN DUN!!

Also, 80psi is VERY low, IIRC 130 is about the minimum recommended. However, this is probably not your problem.

It's not your vacuum advance. Have you hooked up a fuel pressure gauge? "Backfiring" out of the carbs can be a sign of running lean and your other symptoms seem fitting. I'm not sure, but is the front carb first to get fuel? I would guess fuel pump.

Have you heard of people doing that?! The thought of it makes me cringe but I don't know everything by any means.

Haha, please read the disclaimer... It's been a while since I've had an L28 on the stand but I didn't have any problems and I didn't cross-thread anything. Have you tried it? I did not buy and bolts and I remember wondering if they seriously put 14mm slash 9/16 headed, similarly threaded bolts on the engines for our convenience..... yeah right, but who knows maybe I'm just on crack and didn't use the supplied bolts.

Hmm, definitely NOT the advice I was expecting. How heavy are they?

Through some friends I have found a '76 Stingray that is in fair condition. The interior is GONE, but the panels are all straight and with a couple 10 hours of work could be ready for paint. It has been sitting for a while (a year I would guess by the inspection and registration) and has (supposedly) matching numbers 350/350. I don't know if that really adds any worth to the car but the guy says it runs fair and shifts well. These aren't easy to find around here and me and the wife are both interested. He WILL NOT negotiate on the price. I have asked twice. Anyhow, he doesn't have it listed and I've known about it for about a month. I am very aware however that it could be gone tomorrow very easily. Any input would be appreciated. Oh yeah, he is also selling a 71(?) Charger for $2500! It has the 318 and is an automatic. Excellent interior and exterior except for the passenger side door which has been hit pretty hard. It also kind of bowed the rear side window out a little (maybe, that's what he said but I couldn't really tell if it was just the door or not). He says it runs well (which I believe because his soon was trying to start it for us the last time I was out there about a month ago), but also has been sitting for a while. Should I get both? If I do, I would sell the charger probably because even though I think it looks MEAN!, the Stingray is my main priority.

Are you seriously impressed by 400hp from a supercharged V8?

On THAT budget, I would get a running 350 vortec with computer (maybe $500 but probably more like $800, put a wee of a cam in it - maybe you can find one that will be under the .440-.470 lift limit of the vortec heads (someone has said an aftermarket company makes one, either way there's $250 ). With the rest of the money you might be able to pull it off. This is your best bet in my mind. That's probably not 400hp, but probably close and I think that's as close as you are going to get with $2,000.

Man, I like how it looks without the door or the front fender! I would drive mine around like that if the interior wasn't real nice.

are those house shoes?

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=1335258849

:shock: ....... :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Dyno numbers aren't worth their weight in piss. Tune by them and measure your power at the track.

I ASSume you're talking about shorty headers. If they're long tube I would be really interested. If they're shorty headers they would have to be cheaper than JTR's for me to bat an eye because they are a pretty good header in my opinion. JTR only sells 1 5/8 primary so a 1 3/4 would be a definite advantage also. Keep us posted.

I'm excited but I wonder how expensive it will be.

you're not serious are you?

Yeah, and the old 1/4 mile times make me feel better about my car.

Snow here also.