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Showing results for tags 'Help'.
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Ok, So I need some help with wiring. I am swaping a 1981 l28et into a 1976 280z I recently just found out that the wiring harness and ECU that I have is from an 1982; after checking the serial # on the computer and noticing that the wiring harness did not have a hook up for the dropping resistors. I have been having difficulty understanding the wiring diagrams for both the 1981/2 harness and the 1976 harness. I have been using the Bumble Z ( wiring torutrial as a reference but I am still confused. Most of what I have figured out is quite simple: the injectors, CAS, other sensors, but thats about it. Problems 1. The Coil and Ignitor This is my original coil. What can I remove from this harness what should I keep? This is my "new" coil I do not have the part of the harness that plugs into it but I have firgured out a way to make a plug for it I just need to know what goes to what. The pins on the ignitor are shaped like a T (a Black w/ whit wire and a Blue wire run to the ignitor from the coil) I cant figure what I should wire to this But I am pretty sure it has to do with the computers spark control. 2. Fuseable Links I have both fuseable links right now for the old engine and the "new" In this picture I have them mounted next to each other. I understand from the Bumble Z tutorial the only wires I need are the green a brown wire on the "new" harness. I am a little uneasy about removing or cutting any of the wires that lead to the existing fusable links. (Do I need this to run my lights or fuel pump?) 3. Ignition Harness This was pluged into what I belive is the ignition harness of the "new" ECU and the back end of this plug should somehow run to the ignitor/coil. In the bumble z tutorial he had a 6 prong plug, his one has 8. 4. Switched Power In the tutorial there are a lot of things that need to be run to switched power what should I use? I think I have firgured out that the black w/ white wire that runs to the coil should be switched power but im not really sure. I will really apreciate some input please dont tell me to search more, maybe at least point me in the right direction. I live in the Seattle area but my car is in lakewood (hour south of seattle). If there are any wiring gurus that can help me I would more than greatfull. Also I am a college student at Seattle University studying photography. i am willing to trade som automotive photography services for help with the wirring. Side Note: I am really losing morale I already have had one of the turbo engines I was working on stolen that I bought for $1000, wich is a lot of money to a college student. Thanks for all the help!!!
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So yesterday, my car was totaled. I was at a red light at the bottom of a bridge, and on the left lane there was a guy who was pushing his car because he was having car problems. 30 seconds into waiting for the red light to turn green, I looked into my rearview, I saw a Honda coming at me at least 45 mph. I saw him 2 seconds before he hit me, so I braced for impact. He pushed me to the other side of the intersection. I tried to exit the car but the feders trapped the door, so I climbed out the window. I went up to the driver and asked what happened with him and told him off for being reckless. He told me that he was distracted by the guy pushing his car because he wanted to help him out. So I called insurance and cops took a report. Today the adjuster came and said the car is a total loss. He said they'll get back to me within a few days with an offer. I've put a lot of time and money restoring this car, but I have a feeling they will try to lowball me. Has anyone had a similar experience? How much were you compensated? How can I make sure I get back what I put in?
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Hey everyone, I own a 1971 240z with a vg30e motor swap that was done by a previous owner. I'm looking for more power and have read up quite a bit on the nA to turbo conversions. I have found a 1985 300zx turbo donor car and I'd like to do the conversion. I'm no mechanic so i do need help. Does anyone have any shop or mechanic recommendations for this type of work?
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Why can't I post anything to sell my z on this site.
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im new to this. so i pulled my stock vg30 out and have been in the process of a v8 swap. i have the v8 all built heads cam carb but im having a problem i have been trying to mock up the motor location so i can built my motor mounts and the damn oil pan is hitting the rack n pinion. anyone have this problem or know what kind of oil pan i should switch to any help would be great thank you
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Hey, I havn't hardly posted on here, cause I really couldnt find reason too. Everything I was looking for was already on here asked by 300 other people lol. I seen the last few days yall been having trouble with the website, I'm glad its back up cause seriously this is my #1 source for info on my 280Z. Since I bought it a few years back I've finally got the efi to work and get the car up to where I can enjoy it. The motor is coming out near the end of the season and gonna put some flat tops and megasquirt. I seriously cannot wait to do all this. I just wanted to let everyone here on this forum that posts their fixes, problems, and issues THANK YOU! You've helped me tons and on a limited budget! Not to mention great reading about some of your guys and gals cars in here. Tommorrow the cars gonna get flogged on some north ga mountain roads near my house all thanks to you guys.
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I bought a 1977 280Z off my neighbor for $400 garage kept for 20 years when he stopped driving it due to him becoming handicapped. Been driving it for a while, but I do want to do an engine swap on it. I hear alot about these LS1, LS2, LS6's being good also pretty easy being that holley makes kits for them. My friend told me to put an engine from a 90-95 300zx either single turbo, twin turbo, or non turbo. He also suggested a turbo 3000cc or an F20c. I guess what i'm asking is for the more senior car men to give me suggestions on what I will give me the most bang for my buck. Im open to all suggestions of other engines.
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- help
- 280zEngine swap
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So I really hate to do this to my pride.. but I'm not super great at this stuff and I just want to make sure I have my settings and setup "generally" correct so I don't blow my engine or ~$400 ecu investment up. I would greatly appreciate any constructive advise as to what setting are wack or what should be corrected immediately via me being a noob. I honestly went through the the "http://www.megamanual.com/mt29.htm" and did the best I could to follow along but I'm just nervous about my work all I'm asking is to look over my MSQ and give some advise for the parameters I have for my setup I will include other information and try to be as clear as possible. so my set up is Car- 1975 280z 2+2 Engine-stock 1983 L28ET P90a head Stock bottom for 1983 turbo I think the "Fwhatever" N42 plenum standard Coil Megasquirt 2 v3 code 2.92 -megasquirt setup is as follows- I built this up via the http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm I built the ecu per the diyautotune site's advise to "Build the ECU up to trigger from the Hall/Optical Input" - I followed the "mods" for the ms2 in this article http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm I DID NOT INSTALL THE VR CIRCUIT, PWM IDLE VALVE OR THE PWM FLYBACK FOR THE INJECTORS.. I was under the impression that they weren't required. for step 65. I chose to go the direct coil control route (I have BIP373 if that's of any useful information.) through the whole installation I did the appropriate tests and all came back how they were supposed to so I figure that I at least did that part basically right. as for the Specific information about my setup I am using the '83 dizzy from the with the stock trigger wheel Stock throttle body w/ 240sx tps adapted Stock injectors with 25watt 6 ohm resistors.....I do not have the pwm flyback circuit (I installed it and bench tested it with the stim and I believe I didn't have enough resistance "or a short" between Q9\Q12 and the heat sink because my ecu basically stopped working....so I removed the circuit and now it works exactly like it used to.) I don't have the MS relay board. so I had to wire my own relay and junction box up, but I will get the relay board soon. I will attach a paint file with how my wiring harness was done...if interested. maybe diagnostic reasons or to laugh at how I shouldn't be an electrician. I spent a lot of time looking for someone with a similar build to mine using the stock dizzy and a standard coil instead of a hei/vr setup to use as a reference for the dwell parameters and the other settings but I wasn't too lucky so I spent a lot of time reading the tuning section and getting confused. so here is my current MSQ please help and ask as many questions as you need I will answer to the best of my ability. any feedback would be lovely since I've had this car for about 2 years and have been fucked over and ripped off multiple times. any help is greatly appreciated 2013-07-21_02.14.43.msq.zip
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i lost the bracket that goes right behind the turn signal, cruise control,whiper blades, its on a 1981 280zx. it stops the turn signal assembly from spinning. its just a little bracket between the turn signals and the ignition bracket. it goes around the steering wheel shaft and only one screw keeps it together. if anybody happens to have another please pm me or email me at calebmad@yahoo.com
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Hey all, Recently i came across This yellow Z on Facebook, (Belongs to Classic Garage Co. Ltd. in Fukuoka Japan) and I can't figure out what fender flares (overfenders) it has. I've been going mad searching trying to figure out. the fronts are more than likely custom and as for the rears, they seem to be some G-nose kit flares. i'm more than likely wrong though. Wasabicars on Youtube covered the shop very quickly, and the first Z he does is the yellow one. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AG4nCY3UOcc&feature=youtu.be here is Classic Garage's link to it http://www.kurumaerabi.com/site/car/info/20000202/13/ Please, any help would be appreciated thanks!
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So I noticed an easy way to tell what orientation your chopper wheel is when you do the 300zx ecu swap. Notice the attached picture, how there is a circle punched in by the top piece? It competes the notched out space in the CAS, that indicates the top. The bottom doesn't have anything that could punch out a circle. Just a thought. (Yes, I know the pictured chopper wheel is a 280zx wheel, I just installed mine)
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hey guys, so the guy i bought my z from had some ugly body kit on it, the bulky fiberglass one. well i took that off and replaced it with the msa poly one http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l276/meat164colgs/Z141.jpg . well when i did this it made my front end rise almost a full inch. i dont have money to spend on quality coil overs but i want to try and buy some cheep coils that fit a 280 and slightly cut them. i know this is stupid and un-recommended but it will be temporary its all i can do right now. i will eventually go to ground control.
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hey guys, so i have had this problem since the day i bought my 77 280z, and nobody has been able to help me fix it.the problem: when it first started it would sputter and backfire at about 3000 rpm and get worse as i drove it. as time went on the problem got increasingly worse and became kinda undrivable. I found started investigating and found that the fuel pump would pulse and shut off then return "repeat". this would obviously cause the engine to starve for fuel and sputter or stop firing all together. well i bought a brand new "presumably a real walbro 255 fuel pump" and replaced the stock fuel pump with the walbro. the z ran amazing for about a month and a half. then started sputtering, backfiring,dying, just like before. at a glance it seems the fuel pump went out again but i find it hard to believe that it would just burn up and die in a month, although i have ran under a half tank about the entire time its been installed, but i didn't think it mattered much on a external pump. it has to be something electrical,fuel pump, afm, tps,realy, something along those lines. As of now the 280z is litraly un-derivable. it will start and run great for about 3 seconds then starts acting up, i can drive it for about 50 feet then it gets so bad to the point were the pump is barely functioning and cant touch the throttle without it dying, it eventually just dies. im at a loss here guys, this is my baby and would love to drive her on the road once more. help or opinions would be greatly appreciated additional -info: when i turn the key too acc the pump comes on and stays on. "i don't think this is normal" - the afm that is on the car right now might be from a zx, the owner gave me a box of parts and there was a was looks to be a zx n/a afm, i know that some people do the zx afm conversion. i also know that the early 77 280z had a fuel pump cut off switch in the afm's and the later ones did not and it was run from the oil pressure sensor. from what i can see the OPS operates just find and when it is unplugged it does not in anyway effect the pump or running status of the z. - the only thing on the car that i know does not work properly is the temp sensor. but i know that thats the reason its making the car run lean,if that was the issue that doesn't enplane why it ran great with a brand new pump.
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I purchased this from a guy that said it was out of a Camaro. It has a strange bolt patern that does not match the bell housing I have. It looks like a V6 pattern with V8 splines. I'm so confused. I tab with the i.d. number was illegible. Any input whould be appreciated. Thanks, Mike
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