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Showing results for tags 'Driveshaft'.
Found 7 results
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I bought a partially done project--a relatively rust-free 280Z with what appears to be a rebuilt Vortec V-8. Those are the good things I can say. This car had once had another engine in it, the hood had a cutout section where there may have been a blower sticking through, and in the glove box were several drag-strip timing sheets in the 12s (so if there was a supercharger, on it it wasn't all that effective). The seller said that the original engine blew, someone bought it and was installing this engine and then ran out of steam. She bought it and thought her boyfriend could finish it, but from what it appears, he just had her order some expensive parts, including a new aluminum radiator, new Holley 650 carb, new fuel pump and a few other things. I've had to redo most of the boyfriend's efforts, and in other posts, you may have seen the issues I've faced. I am using a different motor-mounts and tranny--a rebuilt GMC 2004R--so the engine sets back. Therefore I had to pull the driveshaft and have it cut down. If fits, but doesn't properly mate with the differential. I've spent three long afternoons under the car, trying to get the companion flange on the driveshaft to properly mate with the flange on the diffy. Never could get the flange to drop in so that the two faces mated. And this is the flange I took off it, the flange that the dragster owner had in place. I'm certain that the machine shop didn't somehow swap out that part, because I marked one corner with a center-punch so I'd mate it as it had been. Finally in exasperation today, I pulled the shaft out for the millionth time and measured the male flange, then went under the car and measured the female cut-out. I was stunned! The driveshaft flange is 157+mm and the machined slot on the flange on the front of the differential is 49mm and change--they never mated! Must have been a vibrating ride--wild and noisy. So, this tells me that the flange is for a different rear end than mine. I am going to include photos with this of the flanges in question and of the differential. I think I read on this forum that a smooth rear cover might indicate it is a R200 rather than an R180. So, the questions are: 1. Can I swap out either the flange on the driveshaft or differential? And if so, which? The flange on the U-joint would be easiest. And I am not taking this to the strip, so it doesn't need to be the most robust. 2. Can you tell from the photos which diffy I have back there? There's the driveshaft--local shop did a nice job cutting it down Here's the flange on the U-joint. If that can be traded out with one that fits the diffy, it would be easiest. Here's the flange on the front of the differential. That machined well is only 49mm and change. If this is the flange that needs changing, do I need a puller? Here's a side view of the differential and below is a shot from the rear. Can you tell me which it is? Thank you in advance for the answers.
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I recently fixed an engine oil leak that made a mess all around the underside of my 77 280z. After a few months of the leak stopping I noticed that my transmission is also leaking at the rear where it meets the the driveshaft. I also noticed it only leaks when I drive it. Is this because the transmission might be overfilled? Or could it be a bad seal? If I have to remove the driveshaft, what's the best way to do it? I'll add some pics, you can see the oil drip and splatter all over the car. Thanks!
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Hi, I'm looking at a driveshaft I found and based on the pictures it looks like a T5 driveshaft that's been cut and shortened on one end. To my knowledge, they're the only ones that neck down at both ends, but this one only has that at one. It also has the square diff flange and seems to have a 26 spline tailshaft yoke based on the blurry picture I got. Can anyone tell me for sure that it is/isn't? Thanks.
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looking for drive shaft for 5speed T5 transmission.
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I'm looking to get the following electronics from an '82-'83 ZX turbo: - Wiring harness - ECU Also need a driveshaft from a manual '82-'83 ZX turbo that has the BW T5 transmission. Located in Everett, WA. A bit north of Seattle. Hoping to get the electronics for $150 or less and the driveshaft for under $100. Doing an L28ET swap into a '76 S30 so if you've got anything else that you think I might be interested in feel free to shoot me a pm. - Brandon
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I know there's lots of info out on the net about making your own driveshaft so I thought I'd organize my go to links here. Depending on what you've got for parts and what tools you've got available a DIY driveshaft might be a good option. This should be your freakin' BIBLE when doing any driveline work: Dana Spicer Installation Manual Here's some links below that give some torque ratings and dimensions of different joints and just interesting reading: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1006or-universal-joint-cv-joint-transferring-torgue/ http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/HTML%20measure/UJ%20ID%20Guide.html http://mad4wd.com/blog/?p=18 http://www.wallaceracing.com/driveshaftspeed.htm http://www.rockcharger.com/tech/partnumbers.html http://www.pssupply.com/ratingsp.html http://www.drive-lines.com/dana/tranny_applications.php?model=Ford http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/summer2008/ujoints.htm And one of the most concise DIY builds: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/transmission-articles/493751-how-shorten-your-driveshaft.html#post1556196 Everybody seems to do steel, but if you have a tig welder, well, why not do an aluminum one? They're on Trucks, Explorers, Aerostars etc. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/4361425-post57.html And, if you have yoke problems, remember you can always take material off, but it's a bi*ch to put back on!
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Wanted! 83 Turbo 280zx Distributor/Oil pump drive spindle (splined). I am installing a Microtech ECU on a F54/N42 setup in my 1974 260z 2+2. I have an '83 Turbo distributor (the very neat and simple later one with the flat plate crank angle sensor with 6 x sensor slots firing the pickup). I need however to find a splined type driveshaft for this as the one that came with the engine is the normal single gear parallel type. Otherwise does anyone know of an adaptor. Also, would buy the wiring harness that goes with this if anyone has one for sale? Cheers all
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