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Showing results for tags 'Gas'.
Found 10 results
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Got some gas bummed off me at the station. Sufficiently distracted, I drove off with the cap on the spoiler. Sucks to loose it after owning the car for four and a half years. I was doing so good. Needs to fit a '70. It doesn't need to be the "correct" one. I can handle the shipping by emailing the seller a FedEx label if desired. I get it the fastest/cheapest that way. I'll need box dimensions, weight and an address. PayPal would be nice, but I'll mail a check if I have to. Thanks! -Gonna chain the next one down...
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Greetings from Montana. This is my first post so let me know if it's helpful. So my '75 Z has been sitting in a garage since 2013 on account of the clutch pedal lost its pressure and the fuel system was all gunked up with rust. I went off to school so I had no time to work on it. I came home this summer and have been working on it for a month or so now when I can afford it and have the time and finally this weekend it should drive once again! I came to the conclusion that the priority would be the gas tank and fuel system. So I dove right into draining the gas and stripping the tank from the car. What I had found next was a nightmare. Layers upon layers of rust in the gas tank! First thing I did was sloshed around quite a few nuts and bolts with some old gas and banged on it very carefully with a hammer to break some of those rust chips up. I drained what I could of the broken rust pieces and began my search for a cheap alternative for a rust removing chemical. Come to find out, white vinegar works wonders if you submerge and soak rusted metal for a couple days. I got 17 gallons of the stuff for 2$ a gallon at costco because you will want to fill the entire tank to prevent flash rusting on exposed metal. I filled the tank and sealed it all off with duct tape except for the small tube at the very top of the tank so it could breathe the fumes. I let it soak for 3 days like this and I would suggest placing whatever you are going to drain the vinegar into underneath the drain plug BEFORE you fill it because you won't be able to lift it yourself after it is full of 17 gallons, unless you are Hulk Hogan. Once you are satisfied with the amount of time it has soaked(anywhere from 24 hours for minor rust to 3-4 days for caked on rust), unscrew the drain plug and commence draining. After all but about a gallon or so has drained, grab hold of the tank and start rocking it back and forth and 360 degrees, slowly to get all the flakes to drain. You could bang on it with a rubber mallet or hammer again as well. Once it's all drained, take your phone camera and put it on video with the flash on and poke it inside the sending unit hole. You will be amazed looking around at how well the vinegar works. You will see mostly bare metal. Unplug all the holes and allow it to dry for a day or so. I taped an air compressor blower to one of the holes to give it a blow dry for about an hour right after I drained the vinegar. There will be flash rusting and there is nothing you can do to avoid that unless you wipe it clean with a rag right after it has drained, which is impossible with a gas tank. But don't worry the next step will cover that. Now go to your local car parts store and ask for a liquid gas tank liner, any brand will do. Make sure you read the directions and get enough, especially if you want to do 2 coats. They usually come in 1 quart cans that will usually only cover about 12 gallons. The brand I got was this way. For my '75 280z the gas tank is 17.2 gallons so I had to get 2 quarts. Once you are satisfied that your tank has dried completely, it is time to put your first coat on. Look inside your tank and you will see that it has a divider to the skinny part of the tank. For this reason, I plug all the holes except for the sending unit hole on the tall part of the tank and the gas outlet hole on the narrow part of the tank. This allows you to fill both halves without worry of missing a spot with the coat. You need a good funnel for this stuff. Fill the narrow half with one quart first because it takes longer. Then fill the sending unit half with the remaining quart. Plug the remaining holes. Very slowly roll the gas tank around in your arms 360 degrees on all planes for about 15 minutes or until you think every spot has been touched by the good stuff. It's kinda like the consistency of molasses and it dries like a rubber glove so be thorough. After rocking it around on all planes I would let it sit on it's bottom for 5 minutes then on it's side for 5 minutes then on it's top for 5 minutes then on the other side for 5 minutes and back again on the bottom. I did this for an hour or so while I was changing the oil. I wanted to make sure that bare metal would not show. Once you are satisfied, place it on top of some saw horses or an old cooler or something and place one of the liner cans under the drain plug and unscrew it. Remove all plugs so it can dry evenly. On all the small openings, I took my air blower and blew a small amount of air through to make sure the liner didn't plug them. I would highly recommend this. Let it dry for a day. Come back and check to see if it dried evenly. If there are bare spots, do a second coat, if you have enough left over liner. I did anyway. Let it dry for a day and a half just to be safe. This next step isn't necessary but I recommend doing it since you already have the hunk of junk out. Get a can of rust proof spray enamel from your hardware or car parts store. You could get any color you want. I just got black cause I don't know what the paint job will be on the car yet. Tape all the holes, Air blow it free of debris and sand the rusty spots, air blow again, then commence spraying the enamel. Let it dry. Now that the gas tank is complete, check all your filters. My Z had a small filter between the outlet and the fuel pump. When I took it out, it was pack full of rust to the brim. I have looked all over the market and can not find a part to replace this filter. I tapped all of it out and submerged it in vinegar as well. There is a strainer between the fuel pump and the fuel line to the block. I removed that and soaked it in vinegar. I installed a new fuel pump while I had the gas tank out. And there is another larger fuel filter by the engine block under the hood. I just got a new one of those for 20$ and installed it. Once your tank is completely dry, put it all back together. I suppose you could seafoam the system and bleed it if you want to go a step farther. I probably won't since I know the gas tank is good and that is the source of bad gas. I figure any bad stuff that remains will get washed out and burned off in a day of driving. Thanks for reading my first post! Hope it helped!
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From the album: The Restoration
After I had got rid of rust and applied liner -
From the album: The Restoration
Before I had thrown gas tank liner in -
I just bought a 1975 Datusn 280z and i drove it home. It ran well beside the exhaust leak that i will be attempting to fix in the future. I took off the front and rear bumpers first thing. I had to remove the gas tank to remove the rear bumper shocks. After reinstalling the tank, i put some gas in for a total of around 3 gallons. The engine took a while to start and ran kind of crappy so i thought it might need more fuel so i put 2.5 gallons more in. It started and idled fine so i figured it i would drive to gas station to fill up. less than a 1/4 mile from house it started cutting out on me. I started to turn around and it died a few times before I got it back home. I put 2.5 gallons more in the next day and it would idle fine for a long time but still cut out when i tried driving it once it got to higher rpm. I cleaned out the fuel filter and then it ran good for about 3 or 4 high rpm pulls before it started to cut out again. this time it started to idle kind of crappy too. Anyone have any advice? it never cuts out at high rpm when idling though, its just under load. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I obtained a pre...umm, "hybridized"? '75 280z fairly recently and, having swapped the tranny and done a bunch of other stuff, I'm now trying to tackle a fuel starvation issue. The previous owner installed a very generic Mr. Gasket 12S fuel pump in the engine bay (apparently 4-7 PSI.) This has caused me some fuel starvation and vaporlock issues. The stock mechanical pump on my engine (1970 SBC 350) is apparently not an option, both per the JTR conversion manual, as well as my own experimentation. What have you folks used in the way of fuel pumps? The JTR manual says to mount near the gas tank, but it doesn't mention brand or capacity for an SBC 350...
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How's it going, I picked up a '71 240z the other day. When I got back to town I stopped by the local gas station and began fueling up, right when I topped her off fuel flushed out from what looked to be under the tank. Talk about nerve racking! It was a nice puddle, and then leaked steadily for around 10 minutes or so, and eventually stopped. For the next couple days I drove around and every time I stopped (be it at a light or parking lot) there would be a tiny amount of fuel dripping from again - what appears to be the bottom of the tank - then it would stop within a couple minutes. Now that my fuel is lower, she doesn't leak. Also my gauge isn't working so I can't tell you roughly how full it is. Whenever I put the smallest amount of fuel in her, I smell fuel from inside the car! I ordered all new vent hoses, I was going to drop the tank when they come in and see if I can identify the problem. I'm HOPING it's not the tank. I haven't ordered a new fuel filler hose, they're pretty expensive. I know there's a million posts out there on this, I've been searching. but since every case is slightly different, hopefully this will be helpful to someone with the same issue in the future! If you'd like to chime in and offer some much needed advise, I'd be thankful. -C
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So here's the problem. My 280 runs good for a while. But after a couple minutes of running it it just starts to slow down. I try giving it more gas but it won't let me it just wont go above 40mph and it just starts getting worse I have to stop the car and turn it off and back on
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Hello, Me and my friends have started the first of what's going to be a huge series of "Budget Boosting" your car. If you want to know more details on the topic, check out the YouTube video at "http://youtu.be/5-1SnD5ZY5k" Hopefully you learn something, there is a lot of information in this episode. Have a great boosting day!
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looking for some parts to swap in my l28et before my wedding in two months, (smoke screen burnout is me dream when leaving in gettaway car, 240z) so i prefer cheap and local to 92128, San Diego Area i'll pick up. my number is 760-315-2372 if there are some things missing chime in. obx lsd for r200 or any other cheap option, 350z clutch, 280z gas tank, fuel line, 255lph external walbro pump, 3" v-band etc.. i have wire harness, ecu, and engine. im betting the injectors are toast. thanks!!!
