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Found 10 results

  1. Greetings from Montana. This is my first post so let me know if it's helpful. So my '75 Z has been sitting in a garage since 2013 on account of the clutch pedal lost its pressure and the fuel system was all gunked up with rust. I went off to school so I had no time to work on it. I came home this summer and have been working on it for a month or so now when I can afford it and have the time and finally this weekend it should drive once again! I came to the conclusion that the priority would be the gas tank and fuel system. So I dove right into draining the gas and stripping the tan
  2. I was wondering if someone could tell me how to test my fuel pump relay with a multimeter? I was driving last night and my car started sputtering and running really lean and eventually just died. It would start and idle choppy until i pressed on the gas killing it. This morning when I went to go call a tow I noticed that it now only starts and immediately dies afterwards even with a jump.
  3. I obtained a pre...umm, "hybridized"? '75 280z fairly recently and, having swapped the tranny and done a bunch of other stuff, I'm now trying to tackle a fuel starvation issue. The previous owner installed a very generic Mr. Gasket 12S fuel pump in the engine bay (apparently 4-7 PSI.) This has caused me some fuel starvation and vaporlock issues. The stock mechanical pump on my engine (1970 SBC 350) is apparently not an option, both per the JTR conversion manual, as well as my own experimentation. What have you folks used in the way of fuel pumps? The JTR manual says to mou
  4. So yesterday I was on my way home and my ABS light came on. This was disconcerting since it's NEVER come on before, not in the 17 years I've had the car. So I was looking into the symptoms and aside from the light, there's a hum of a motor coming from the back right rear of the car. Shutting off the car clears the ABS light temporarily, but it comes back on after a few minutes even at idle. I checked the ABS fuse and it's good, I pulled the fuse and the hum continues. I do still have brakes so that's good, but the motor noise continues even with the key off and out of the ignition. I was wo
  5. Hi guys, here's where I'm at- I'm trying to get underway on a v8 swap into my '73 240z. Car will be for street use/getting into trouble- nothing serious like autoX/track/drag. My plans are as follows: Chevy 350 engine 650cfm vac secondary carb MSD 6al ign Camaro t5 trans Custom driveshaft JTR engine/trans mounting kit JTR headers (maybe) Custom exhaust Upgraded fuel pump OEM radiator from v8 car I have been doing a ton of reading and already ordered the JTR manual but still have a few logistical questions. I found a good candidate for a motor, BU
  6. I've been doing some tuning of my Mikuni 44 set up as of late with the assistance of a wide band o2 sensor, and I have learned a few things that may be helpful to some others. Generally, I recommend determining these in the order listed: Pilot Screws: One bit from Honsowetz in the How to Modify Your Nissan Datsun OHC Engine which is a very specific instruction: run your pilot screws 1.5 turns out. I have mine set at 1.5 dead on, and the engine likes the 57.5 pilots at that setting. AFRs are where they should be for idle and low speed operation. The engine runs well in both of these
  7. Hi everyone, Just had my car quit on me. I looked underneath when it died and there was a wet spot under the fuel pump and I could smell the gas. It was giving me intermittent problems before but it seems it's finally bit the bullet. I've been doing a lot of searching to find a replacement pump but I'm having a hard time finding something saying "___ is a swap-in replacement." O'reilly and Autozone sell a couple models but one of the O'reilly pumps listed is a tank-mounted pump so naturally I'm a bit wary of trusting their system. I've also heard of people using the Walboro 2
  8. **UPDATE** I have a 280ZX I'm not using, so I pulled its coolant inlet port off and installed it on the 240Z. I've learned that the later L-series engines have a threaded inlet port. I've plugged it with a 1/2" pipe plug and installed the Lower Radiator hose. Note: If you choose to do what I did, the lower radiator inlet port from my '81 280ZX is slightly pointed more engine-side than the original 240Z port. So watch out for the lower radiator hose touching your alternator. What I did to fix this problem was to twist the lower radiator hose at the bottom of the radiator to clear the alte
  9. Hey guys, hopefully someone can lead me in the right direction. I recently rebuilt my l28et that is in my 77 280z. I took my time with the rebuild and checked all the bearing clearances and replaced any and all gaskets. I also cleaned all the oil and coolant passages and made sure to triple check everything during the rebuild. I purchased a new turbo oil pump to ensure that everything in the motor was at least mostly new. Well fastforward and the motor is back in and I am attempting to prime it for first start and break in. I took the oil pressure sending unit out as well as all the spar
  10. I recently rebuilt my '82 l28et for my '77 and am having oil pump issues now. The car idles fine but with cold oil my mechanical only sees around 20 psi and as it warms it goes down to 12-15 like it use to. My worry worry is that with cold oil the car use to see 45-50 psi at idle and increase with revs to 60 or so. With revs the pressure never goes above 20 psi. I installed the pump and shaft like the "how to rebuild your datsun OHC" book states but ran into a problem with the oil squirt hole not lining up with the punch mark on the pump shaft gear. With the marks lined up the dizzy shaft
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