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Showing results for tags 'SU'.
Found 10 results
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This came in a 240z I got a few years ago, I parted the car out as a friend of a friend wanted something for an lsx swap and my uncle has been trying to sell me his 240z for ages. The z I bought from my uncle has a rebuilt numbers matching original motor so I’m not changing it. This L28 came from a 280z and is supposedly built. Unsure what it has, could be just a cam, I wasn’t the one who put it together. N42 block, N47 head. Turns by hand. Remanufactured starter. Intake and exhaust manifolds were on until I just removed them, it wasn’t sitting exposed. L28’s originally came in 280z’s but they can be used in 240z’s with carbs, an electric fuel pump, and ignition control (I have a Crane kit and a GM unit people often use available). $675 6-1 header available separately $195. Round top SU carb complete setup available extra with motor. Located in Buffalo, NY, I’d drive across the border in exchange for a bottle of vodka from the duty free heh Text or call 716-7two5-5366 -
Hello hybrid Z! Undergoing an engine swap I no longer need my 3 screw SU’s - These will be cleaned up before sending. You get : (2) SU’s Throttle Linkage balance tube intake manifold e46 (I think) pricing is $450 for it all + Shipping. These carbs came off my RUNNING Z before I decided on my LS Swap. I take - Zelle , PayPal or cash Please reach out with any questions! - Don inalso have a Air Box OR K&N filters if you need these as well.
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First off what I run: I have a 240z body, L26 engine, rebuilt E88 head, with the dome top carbs, 5-speed tranny, R200 3.90 diff and 6-into-1 header. So - after I rebuilt the dome top carbs, I replaced the stock (N27) Needles in my carbs with SM needles, as these were recommended to me. My experience is my L26 ran worse. Way too rich at idle, to the point where you had to go to 10+ degrees advance and it still idled lumpy. So I tuned it over several tries, balanced the carbs etc, and then have to lean down the mixture at idle, but then the top end pull suffers (for me) at 3-5K RPM. So I swapped out for N54 - which I think are original 240z needles. And these let me tune idle a lot better and still get more response from the engine in the ‘normal driving’ acceleration ranges. Much better for the driving I do. I don’t have a needle profile for the N54 - if someone has these numbers It would help me understand why they work in my case. I suspect they will be close to the N27 or maybe the SU BC needles (part is AUD1063). From what I can find out, the BC were what Hitachi used when adapting over the HS6 SU over to the 240z. BCE is considered a ‘240z needle’ but after idle will run richer even than the SM. Maybe an L28 stroker would need that much fuel. See: http://www.teglerizer.com/cgi-bin/needle100db.cgi?Needlecode=BC For a list of all the BC needle profiles. What I’ve learned is that you can go to a needle with a leaner idle profile (Stations 1 & 2) and then the rest of the needle can give a RICHER mixture than the profile suggests. That’s because of where you have to position the jet when getting the correct idle air/fuel mixture. Conversely, when selecting a needle with a richer profile for idle, it can give a slightly LEANER mixture than the profile suggests. SM needles can work, provided the carbs are ‘as new’ with no jet wear, and your ignition and timing are all good. (Good vacuum advance, no vacuum leaks). I now consider the SM to be “Race Needles” and if you order some, they are SU part AUD1328. The ‘stations’ of a needle profile are measured in 1/8” intervals Station 1 is immediately below the shoulder of the needle, Station 2 is 1/8” below that, etc. For the HS6 (and thus the Dome top carb): Stations 1 and 2 are idle, 3 to 7 are cruising and acceleration (with about 35mph around Station 4, 50-55 mph around Station 6) and 8 to 13 are closer to the top end rev range of the engine. You can ignore the Stations beyond that for a 1 3/4” carb. This is what I have for the SM profile: .0990 .0950 .0915 .0885 .0855 .0825 .0795 .0765 .0735 .0710 .0690 .0670 .0650 .0630 Again, anyone that has numbers for the “stock” N27 or N54 needles can you please provide them. I don’t think the attached which I found online can be correct for the N27. Thanks, Richard
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I'm in need of Su round top floats but I can't find anything on the internet that is not priced ridiculously. Tried datsunparts.com but they took a week to process my order then changed the price from $32 to $60 last minute. Im located in Canada any help would be greatly appreciated! I really want to set up the round tops on my 260z and get it running. Thanks
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So i just got a 240z for my senior project and the internals of my stock flat top carbs are wrecked. I really dont have the funding for a new set of round top carbs right now so im desperately searching for some working flat tops or round tops! either works for me as long as i can get my z running. Let me know what you have!
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Deleted for inaccuracy / insufficient information.
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I have an L24 with SU carbs. I've had this idea of the ability to go from carbs to EFI and back relatively easily.This would require a bolt on replacement for the carbs. I'd still be using the stock intake runners and air cleaner. I'd also try to keep the TBs the same length as the carbs. This is what I've doodled so far. This uses a compact EV14 injector: http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/media/catalog_resources/Injection_Valve_EV_14_Datasheet_51_en_2775993867pdf.pdf Some fuel rail I found the dimensions of: http://www.rossmachineracing.com/images/large/dash8wire.jpg And the flange patterns from the SUs. This drawing lacks stuff still. The idle air intake, I figure, could go on the sides of the TBs facing each other and be plumbed to a T where one adjustment screw handles both the TBs idle. The placement of the injector is arbitrary. I just plopped it there and it worked out that the fuel rail doesn't interfere with the stock air cleaner (orange line). It's angle's just 45*. I'm not sure how evenly the fuel would be distributed down the 3 asymmetrical runners with this set up. Probably over thinking that though. The placement of the throttle plate is arbitrary as well. I've merely spaced it 1 cm from the flange to provide room for bolting on the air cleaner. These should retain most of the stock throttle linkage too. This drawing also assumes that both the front and rear of the SUs are 44 mm inside diameter and coaxial. I'm not sure about this. I know next to nothing about injectors. According to some megasquirt literature though; If I want the capability to fuel around 150 HP then I need 2 injectors around 500 cc/min each. Any reasons why this might not be feasible? -
So I recently got a 260z last month and this problem has finally gotten to me. The infamous post emissions Flat top SUs are bogging when I lay the pedal to the metal. They will just begin to barf gasoline out the overflow valve if I start it up and rev it while the carbs are still cold. But this especially happens up in the hills (In Alaska) and no matter how slow I start up the carbs they will bog and puke up good gasoline. All I can do is floor it till what I assume is the floats go back up. Usually all it takes is flooring it till it touches off on 5k revs. But this problem is very persistant and when I come down from the hills after the carbs go cold all they wanna do is bog for the next 5 to 10 minutes. Now I'm just gonna guess this problem is from sticky floats and fouled up Emission carbs. (cept for all the emissions are taken off because Alaska)
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I recently made some changes to my cooling system and am now having an issue or two. Before the change my temp ran right at ~180 degrees with little variation. Whether I was cruising, idling or driving "spiritedly" the temp stayed fairly constant. I was running a 16" electric fan, set up as a pusher (I know) slightly angled off the rad (3 core) because it was too big. Not a great setup, but it was working. I have since made two changes: I switched out to a more powerful 14" fan setup as a puller which has a good seal to the rad. When it runs, it's moving a ton of air, seemingly much more than the old setup. I also removed the water circuit for the manifold heat to my SU carbs. I assumed since this circuit ran parallel to the heater core that it shouldn't be an issue; worst case I just open the hot water valve and the coolant system is essentially unchanged. My issue: The car now runs hot (~210deg) at anything over ~1500revs. At idle, the temp settles right back down to ~180. While cruising, if I clutch it and let it idle, it drops down to 180. And, if I cruise slowly enough to keep the revs down, it rides around the 180 mark. As soon as the revs go higher, the temp runs up. What seems odd is that it drops down/up about as quickly as the guage is capable of moving, so I'm pretty sure it isn't actually changing temp by ~30 degrees that quickly. Even if I open the heater valve so that circuit is active, it behaves the same. I'm thinking that I have an air pocket stuck someplace, but I've done everything I can think of to bleed the system. Are there any tricks that I should know about? Does the manifold heat circuit really have an affect on running temp? Absolutely any help would be appreciated! Thanks! Rob
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Hello fellow z owners i would like to see how much horse power i would be looking ad with an engine of these specs. >l28 >n42 head, ported polished, Lift(In/Ex): .560/.560. Duration(In/Ex): 300/300, kameari big valves >n42 block, ross forged 1mm over high comp pistons, 1mm head gasket >kameari high performance oil pump >later electronic distributer from 280zx >ztherapy su carbs >msa 6-1 headers 2.5" exhaust system Engine will also be about a 10.5:1 compression ratio
