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Showing results for tags 'Steering'.
Found 11 results
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Hello everybody I am currently swapping a 5.3 with a t56 into my ‘78 280z. This is my first engine swap I’ve ever done which means I’m learning as I go. I will be running a Holley terminator computer but I am now wondering how much of the old harness I can take out of the car. I plan on running speed hut gauges later down the line but my main focus is making sure my headlights, turn signals, and brake lights are working properly. I still want everything to work with the steering column but if there’s anything I’m missing please let me know.
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I noticed my steering wheel doesn't return to center after turning right. The wheels are aligned still, and there is no play, simply off by about 15 degrees on return. The cause is clearly the rack shifting. Any thoughts on what might be causing extra resistance on the front right wheel? (perhaps a common problem, familiar to the s30 veteran) I replaced the rack's bushings. Not only were the old bushings fine, but they didn't solve the snag. The issue started when I put my wider tires back on (they are 215, but there is no interference), clearly the extra load/resistance is adding enough difference on the failing component to causing the rack to hold slightly right (until I turn the other direction). My thought is strut bushing or bearing (my other vehicle had the same issue when I didn't replace the old strut mount but added heavy duty springs). 1975 Datsun 280z (unmodified)
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Hello, I have a 1983 280zx that is going to be running a custom front suspension setup with 1996 240sx s14 steering knuckles, s14 coilovers, 350z brake rotors, 300zx aluminum brake calipers. However, the question I have and can't seem to truly find a solid answer to is will 240sx inner tie rods bolt up to the 280zx steering rack (I know that s13 and s14 tie rods are different). Also, the reason for needing different tie rods is due to the stock ones coming no where near close to reaching the steering knuckle. Ideally I would like to run a set of s14 aftermarket tie rods, inner and outer, or some combo that will result in me having the ability to run heim joints for more steering angle. What I have found has me to believe that both 280zx's and an s14's (240sx) run tie rods that are M14x1.5. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
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Been working on power steering. I decided on a 2004 Subaru WRX steering rack. I did some measuring to make sure everything would work. First I needed to figure out how much to cut off the steering rod. In steering, the pivots are the key to getting it to handle correctly. The stock pivots on the 240z steering rack is 616mm. The WRX rack is about 634mm. Some individuals use older Celica inner tie rods with the stock Subi outers to get everything to fit, but my rack is the "late" Subi rack. The threads are larger, M16 x 1.5, on the "late" Subi rack and the Celica rods didn't fit. I did some online research and found that 2000 Hyundai Sonata rods had the correct length and thread. The added bonus is that the inside of the Hyundai rods are vented and stepped to allow for more steering angle without shortening the outer tube of the steering rack. The step did have a lip that had to be ground down though. The step on the Hyundai rod is 5mm which adds 10mm on the travel on the steering. So, while I cut 18mm of the rod, it reduced the travel by 8mm. Stock 240z travel is 120mm, Subi is 132mm. Now the travel is around 124mm because the measurements are not perfect. So I added a little travel, hopefully it doesn't bind the steering knuckles. Here is a picture comparing the shortened Subi rod vs. the 240z rack. The final measurement was 576mm for the steering rod. Then I mounted the subframe on the engine to check clearances . In this swap, the engine mount perch has to be clearanced to make room for the angle of the Subi steering shaft. Also, the subframe has to be clearanced for the rotary valve and lines. Also checked the clearances with the A/C compressor mounted and to plan the pressure line. I cut the end of the steering shaft off to weld the Subi U-joint to the 240z steering shaft. I just shaved the weld and pulled the shaft out the Subi joint and the 240z shaft diameter was exactly the correct diameter to push inside and weld. I think it looks better that the stock Nissan weld, and that lasted 45 years. Hope I didn't cook the grease out of the joint when I welded it. There wasn't much smoke, so I think I am good. The stock Subaru rod ends ended up only having about 12mm of thread engagement when the alignment was roughed in and I wanted more. I did some research and figured out that 2003-2009 Mazda 6 tie rod ends are 7mm longer than the WRX ends. They are curve and have a left and right though. The taper on the stud seemed to match the original Datsun rods as well. Now I have plenty of thread engagement. I used compression fittings to move the hydraulic lines to where they would fit around the subframe. They worked out well and only one needed to be tightened up. They are 1/4 inch fittings. This is how much I had to cut out of the subframe. Metal was added to strengthen the subframe. If the engine mount becomes a problem, then I will gusset it. I used the RB25 (R33 non HICAS) pump, which is the same as most 240sx pumps. I built the pressure line out of -6AN Fragola PTFE hose with a M16 x 1.5 banjo metric adapter and the M14 x 1.5 power steering fitting for the rack. I did kinda skimp on the reservoir though and will switch it with an OEM style later. I used a 120 degree end on the rack side so it will clear the A/C pump later. Should have used a 150 degree though. The feel is great and feels about as a power steering car should. I dont have too many bumpy roads around here, so I cant fully test for bump steer. Havent felt any yet and we do have some railroad crossings that I have tried. There arent too many curvy roads either, but parking lots seem to be way more tolerable. The steering ratio seemed to stay about 2.7 and without a degree wheel to measure it, will stay "about". If there are any questions, let me know and I will ad them in the first post to help keep everything together.
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My 1972 240Z has worn out inner tie rod ends... vehicle control too important!! From what Ive searched finding new factory ends is rare. But why put the same parts in? Does anyone know of any steering rack upgrades or swaps that are common and actually stronger/better?? Any insight into either repairing or swapping this steering rack would be awesome! 4.5 years into the build and its a streetable 650whp 1.5jz 6 speed 240Z Please help me use the 6 months of insurance I put on it! Thanks
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I relocated the steering shaft to make room for long tube 1 3/4" primary tube headers and wanted to share the results through a few pictures. 3/4" shaft support bearing, 3/4" shaft, 3/4" smooth wall u-joint, and a 19/32 drill bit were all that was needed. I should have ample clearance for any header on this side of the car. The passenger side is now the only concern.
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So i've been trying to find replacement inner tie rods for my 72 240z. It looks like nissan discontinued making them? There is also seem to be an issue with wrong inner tie rods from the regular autoparts (autozone, oreilly, rockyautoparts)? Where did you guys get your replacement inner tie rods? I've read someone rebuilding their tie rods; re-tightening, re-grease them, install new boots. Anybody else do this? Did it work?
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Hi Guys In urgent need of a steering column for a '77 280Z but only finding for the 240z and early models. They look like they may have minor differences in the upper bolt section which can be modified easily but wondering if anyone knows for sure if they are interchangeable otherwise and the same length etc? I'm talking about the actual column that is inside the car, not the shaft in the engine bay. Thanks. -
My steering rack is looking bad. Bellows are off, grease nipple has some kind of strange cap. Does anyone have experience with putting a new steering rack in a 240z? Will it change anything from stock? Lock to lock? I found this on eBay: http://bit.ly/19TR02I
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I have mounted 2 buttons on my steering wheel and am not sure the best way to connect with wire. I am thinking about using a coiled cable, as I have seen before, but I would prefer to use a 'spring clock', which is how most cars connect electrical to the steering wheel in a discrete way. I am worried that a coiled cable could get caught up on the steering column when I turn the wheel all the way to one side. The steering rack on a 72 240z should be 2.6 turns lock to lock, which mean a coiled cable would have to wrap 1.3 times around the steering column. What do you think?
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Hey guys, did a lot of searching and reading before posting but found mostly questions being answered by opinions so was wondering what you guys are running up front as far as tire width and sizes go and how you find the steering. I am in between keeping the stock rack and pinion out of the Z versus WRX power steering but I will be running a 235/17 tyre up front with the rb26 on my 280 and was wondering what I should expect as far as effort goes. I will be designing it as a dd but don't really expect to drive it more than a few times a week. I'm leaning towards the stock rack simply because I want to keep the feel genuine and not to mention it will just be easier in the first place.
