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Showing results for tags 'axle'.
Found 8 results
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When uninstalling/reinstalling the diff, I noticed the passenger side axle companion flange rotated independent of the axle while loosening the bolts. I could pretty easily rotate it back and fourth by hand a couple degrees or so. The axle nut was still staked in place, but had definitely lost its clamping force. I could clamp the axle down with a new nut, but with as much play the splines now have, I'm thinking this axle is toast and would be too risky to continue using. Wouldn't want it to snap during a launch. Does anyone agree? Is it likely the axle wasn't installed properly? (I have never disassembled the passenger side axle, so I wouldn't know) Should a fresh install with a new nut torqued down to 230+ ft lbs be fine? Would it be wise to inspect the axles after each autocross? Thanks in advance! -
I'm getting tired of the vibrations and broken U-joints associated with the stock half shafts so it's time for an upgrade. I'm looking for a pair of CV axles from either a 280zx turbo or a 300zx turbo. Post here or PM me about anything you've got. Thanks in advance!
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Hey anyone running a obx lsd in a r200 using the 280zx turbo or 300zx tripod axles? If so is your passenger side axle slightly floppy? Were the axle goes into the diff the last 10-12mm that enters last has a step up on it before the actual tripod housing has play there and the axle can be grabbed and moved up and down some. Its not just me znke has the same problem! Does the small step portion of the axle seat into the diff or does it float and the only thing holding the axle straight is the splines and wire clip? Anyone?
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I purchased a 240z that had a r200 swap conversion installed including the CV's and Stub axles. I had also previously purchased an r200 CLSD and CV shafts. I went ahead and swapped in the CLSD I have known about binding issues especially in the 240's but when I measured the CV axles from the open diff compared to the CLSD they were the same size. There for i figured my car would not have binding issues. I had Previously heard a clunk and bind but i thought this was due to some play in the transverse link. Now that I've done more research I've discovered that my dumb ass should have purchased shorter shafts and not placed the original z31 CV's which was the clunk caused by axle wrap and bind. Ive drove about 50 miles on the CLSD and have started to hear a rotational clicking/ticking/clunk(Not Good as I know and once again I am a dumb ass for this) I heard the noise after heavy driving and putting real stress on the rear end. This leaves me with 3 questions: 1. Did I destroy the R200 CLSD? (I did have it inspected previously and everything looked great) 2. Should I bother with buying the shortened shafts, is the noise an internal differential problem? 3. If the diff is fine where has the majority of the damage inquired. What are your thoughts I am not sure what to do as I may have destroyed this diff. Please let me know what you all think. Thank you your inout is appreciated.
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Hi, I'm currently embarking on a diff project (not exactly by choice) and so far I have all my parts (Adapters from M2, Diff from Whitehead) and I am currently stuck at finding Z31 Turbo Axles. I've tried Rock Auto several times but they never have them in stock (when they do its a lie). I also tried my local CL and eBay as well as a few members here on HybridZ, NicoClub, and ClassicZCar. If this goes against any Forum rules, I apologize but I've tried mainly through Parts Wanted threads and private messaging AS WELL AS THE SEARCH BUTTON and I'm not to sure where to go now. If anyone has information on where to find Z31 Turbo axles please let me know. Better yet, if you are selling them, please let me know. Thank you, Liam
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In need of a early (25 spline) rear outer stub axle, just one, don't need the companion flange. OR could be talked into a full set of 280Z stub axles and companion flanges. I'm in Columbus, OH, but willing to pay shipping. Thanks! Ben
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Wanted to buy two 280Z stub axles, mine are damaged. Let me know what you have and how much you want for them shipped to Wisconsin - Thanks
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I do recognize that this topic has been documented many times before, and believe it or not, I've read most (if not all) articles pertaining to this, on this site and others. But it is clear as mud. Here is my guarantee: if I can find help here, I will make a VERY PRECISE and WELL PHOTOGRAPHED swap so that others in the future aren't as confused as me. I own a 1971 240z, and I want to drop the the R200 that came out of a '94 Q45 (there has been even people speculating that the Q45 had a R230, but from most sources, it is an R200). I've retained the inner CVs with a 6-bolt flange pattern - the halfshaft axles and outer CVs are gone. Someone I know is parting a 1979 280ZX, and the diff has already been picked by someone else. I was thinking I could grab the moustache bar, front diff mount and rear control arm hanger, but some documentation suggested that only up to 1988 280Z (not X) moustache bars would bolt in. Will a 1979 280ZX moustache bar bolt into my 1971 240z and accept the R200 from the Q45? Is the front diff mount and rear control arm hanger worth picking from this 280ZX? As apparently the CVs weren't implemented in the N/A 280ZX (this car has u-joints), I'd like to use other CVs. Someone else has Z32 300ZX (n/a) half-shaft axles - they have a 5-bolt flange on the differential side, and just the one-piece CV/stub axles on the other (is there a proper name for this?). some documentation says that the Q45 CVs accept 30-toothed splines, which the Z32 TT has, but not the N/A version (which has 29). Really Nissan, REALLY? There has been some articles suggesting that pathfinder axles are a good fit (length-wise, tooth-count wise) - keeping in mind, I still need two wheel-side CVs on the 30-tooth splined axles. Then there are the dreaded stub-axles. Can I use the 280ZX stub axles and companion flanges in the 240z? On the companion flange side (CV-side), what bolt pattern will I be expecting? 6-hole (3 pairs)? Seems like I'll need to find either the proper outer CV to mate to it, or machine an adapter (which will affect the overall length). I am aware that several companies offer kits that would make my life easier, but I don't have thousands of dollars to throw at the rear end of the car right now. As a bonus question; is it worth getting the rear brakes off the 280ZX? I see many people have done it, except adapters must be machined to hang the calipers. Are the 280ZX housings the same, and could the whole thing be swapped into the 240z control arms? thanks so much, Sim http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/diffswap.html http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/70534-r-200-spline-counts-and-mystery-hlsd/
