nissanboy85 Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 So I was going through the black dragon z catalog to look up u joint for my cousin's 280z and its said 280z u joints cannot be replaced. Is this true?? My cousins z vibrates really and we were told that its definitely the u joint. So what...do we have to buy a whole new driveshaft?? He even ordered some new u joints from NAPA and picked them up today. What do we do now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Replace the U-Joints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brownclee Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 (edited) The drive shaft u-joints cannot be replaced. However, the half shaft u-joints (between the differential and rear wheels) are. The ones your cousin bought from NAPA are probably for the half shafts. You will need to replace the drive shaft or try contacting a company who builds custom drive shafts to see if they have any suggestions. Edited June 30, 2011 by brownclee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 (edited) That would be because the 'axles' or 'half shafts' are called 'driveshafts' in Nissanspeak... A prop shaft for a 280 with replaceable Spicer 1310 (?) compatible trunnions runs under $200 in steel or moly. At least mine did for the 510 wagon, and it was way longer than the Z, and was 3"! Aluminum is under $300. Try Here Edited June 30, 2011 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 I don't get it...Every S30 propshaft I've worked with I have replaced the U-joints in. I just did it a few days ago. Why does everyone seem to say they are not replaceable??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 The u-joints aren't replaceable according to Nissan, but you can replace them with Spicers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 I don't get it...Every S30 propshaft I've worked with I have replaced the U-joints in. I just did it a few days ago. Why does everyone seem to say they are not replaceable??? x2 - I've rebuilt both sides of at least three halfshafts on my 78s. Haven't looked into the driveshaft u-joint, but my Subaru has "non-replaceable u-joints" that I had replaced by a local driveshaft shop. I just converted to a different type with the same dimensions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 (edited) x2 - I've rebuilt both sides of at least three halfshafts on my 78s. Haven't looked into the driveshaft u-joint, but my Subaru has "non-replaceable u-joints" that I had replaced by a local driveshaft shop. I just converted to a different type with the same dimensions. Blabbermouth! I mean if one set of U-Joints has four pressed-in caps on a trunnion, then getting another press in 4-cap trunnion...all you need is some grease, a press, and patience. Nissan didn't sell replacements, that doesn't mean replacements aren't available... Edited July 1, 2011 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 (edited) Blabbermouth! WTF are you talking about? Nissan didn't sell replacements, that doesn't mean replacements aren't available... I was talking about Subaru driveshaft u-joints, which the dealership told me were 'non-replacable' but a driveshaft shop did it for me [Thus relating Nissan's "non-replaceable u-joint" to another Japanese make]. He mentioned NAPA and Victoria British/Black Dragon in the OP, bra. Edited July 1, 2011 by FlatBlack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 WTF are you talking about? I was talking about Subaru driveshaft u-joints, which the dealership told me were 'non-replacable' but a driveshaft shop did it for me [Thus relating Nissan's "non-replaceable u-joint" to another Japanese make]. He mentioned NAPA and Victoria British/Black Dragon in the OP, bra. A bit defensive are we? I think you took Tony's post the completely wrong way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 Yeah, some people just don't understand... That was like JC telling me to shut up on the 'reduced engine friction' explanation on 'wrong rod bearings?' post recently. What is not obvious to some, may be a not so well-guarded and in fact 'public domain' fix. It's like this next sentence, which is likely to be a revelation to Flatblack after his last post: Uh, dude, you realize NISSAN and SUBARU both source Fuji Heavy Industry parts for the driveline? It's kind of like finding R180 Subaru Differentials in Datsuns. They aren't "NISSAN" or "SUBARU" parts, they are "FUJI HEAVY INDUSTRY" parts sold to each company. The supplier does the engineering and specification compliance in the JDM, and it's VERY common to have the same part on many different marques. Saginaw Power Steering Columns: GM....Jaguar...who else domestically? Hmmmmmm... "Non Replaceable" is indeed a bullshite comment. As I said in my FIRST response to the ORGINAL POST: "Replace the U-Joints" That you revealed HOW you replace the U-Joints... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 Yeah, some people just don't understand... That was like JC telling me to shut up on the 'reduced engine friction' explanation on 'wrong rod bearings?' post recently. What is not obvious to some, may be a not so well-guarded and in fact 'public domain' fix. It's like this next sentence, which is likely to be a revelation to Flatblack after his last post: Uh, dude, you realize NISSAN and SUBARU both source Fuji Heavy Industry parts for the driveline? It's kind of like finding R180 Subaru Differentials in Datsuns. They aren't "NISSAN" or "SUBARU" parts, they are "FUJI HEAVY INDUSTRY" parts sold to each company. The supplier does the engineering and specification compliance in the JDM, and it's VERY common to have the same part on many different marques. Saginaw Power Steering Columns: GM....Jaguar...who else domestically? Hmmmmmm... "Non Replaceable" is indeed a bullshite comment. As I said in my FIRST response to the ORGINAL POST: "Replace the U-Joints" That you revealed HOW you replace the U-Joints... For what its worth, Fuji Heavy Industries owns Subaru, and until '99 Nissan owned a good chunk of Fuji Heavy Industries. Nissan says the Z31 driveshaft/propshaft u-joints cant be replaced too, but there are ways to replace non-serviceable u-joints. I once found a writeup somewhere on the interwebz, but cant seem to find it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 Here's a thread from last year on the subject, if you're up paying for shipping, or a road-trip. At the least, you can tell the local drive line shops that it is possible. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/93688-280z-datsun-nissan-non-replaceable-ujoint-replacement-where-to-go-to-fix-for-just-103-in-30-minuets/page__pid__883219#entry883219 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 (edited) "replaceable" and "non-replaceable" comes with or without snap rings for retention. As the linked post shows, there is a P/N for 'non replaceable' joints. Generally 'replaceable' joints have bolted in caps, in some cases caps retained with snap rings or clips. If you look at the Datsun "non-replaceable" joints, they have pressed-in clips---like a washer or metal deformation called 'staking'. You push it in, and it is spring steel so it digs in on the way out or simply grind away the stakes. You can not press these joints out with that retainer/stakes in place. Simply heating it a bit softens the spring to the point that you can pry it in on itself and pop it out---for stakes you grind. You can then press from the opposite side and remove that bearing cap out that side. In some cases the guys will keep on pushing so the opposite side spring retainer will come out the bottom of the bore. With a slight rotation, that cap is now off and you can usually remove one of the yokes at that point. Then repeat the process. The replacement joint comes with one of several different retention methods, but usually the good old cheap spring retainer works or you simply re-stake after install... Sometimes the aftermarket joints actually have clips on oversized caps which makes future replacement no harder than a regular replacement on a 'traditional replaceable' diriveshaft! (WATCH FOR THESE IN JUNKYARDS! Even if they are shot, it saves you work!) Some OEM's use a plastic locking compound and you have to heat and melt out the locking ring. Many times these will need simple machine work to take standard retention clips...but I digress. This isn't rocket science, if you can do replaceable joints, chances are you have the skills to do non-replaceable ones on a Datsun. You may not have all the tools, but it doesn't take much---either a 6" vice, or Arbor/Hydraulic press. Maybe a torch and screwdriver. Appropriate pushing stock (a deep well socket or cut to length tubing works. This post has photos and you can follow it pretty well and uses the ones with clips spoken of above....: http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=517657 The joint in question is on a LOT of Japanese cars (like I said, common supplier of components...) To reprise my FIRST post on this subject: "Replace the U-Joints!" A google search on "non-replaceable u-joints" shows all sorts of stuff (Actually, the first hit that shows up is the link I posted.) for the 240sx, ZX's, RX7's including the information on the Rockford Joint.... But a search on "irreplaceable u-joints"... One means you can't replace them. The other means the can't be replaced. There IS a difference. This is what happens when people translate Japanese to English (Chinese the same thing...) This is what is referred to in Japan as 'The Same, But Different'---I have spoken of it before. We have it in this case, only in English! Edited July 1, 2011 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Donovan_ Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 I have a driveshaft from a '76 280Z I am not using. Make an offer and it's yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Donovan_ Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Nothing? Seriously, $20 and shipping would be all I ask for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colerongo Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Just get a custom driveshaft made with Spicer 1310 yokes. That's what I did and it didn't cost much. The only problem is that the thing is so beefy i had a little bit of a clearance issue with my rear sway bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 anybody with a large diameter shaft will have that issue. But neither part moves much in relation to the other. Seems the differential mount is much stiffer in compression than tension! Man, my strap is trashed on the Turd. Was under there yesterday doing the driveshaft/tranny thing. Only to find my 'new' JY tranny has a balky second synchro, and the 5th gear pops out sometimes when I lift-throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oblithian Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 (edited) Ok, so when I bought my car the bearings were going in the U-joints, and I had them replaced. That was a bit of a fuss but basically, take it to a shop that specializes in driveshafts don't waste your time anywhere else. They swapped them out for a 'staked-in' / '4 grooved' design within 2 days and I have been using them without issue for almost 5 years. Alternatively, RockAuto seems to stock U joints for many of the model years now... except 1975. Which is mine ('75, 2+2). So when my u-joint snapped (due to an akward situation where I had to floor it over a railway crossing to merge), I needed to get another set but didn't want to spend the same ammount as getting another driveshaft. So, here are the measurements I got: 0.945" (cap diameter) and 1.637" between the ears and 1.526" between the clips on the u-joint they installed prior. The closest match I found was GMB 220-7010, 0.945", 1.535" it is available on Summit Racing. But given I don't live in the US, the lead time plus the shipping cost made it undesireable (oddly walmart.com also lists them, but they are out of stock. Maybe calling in they can order them in in Canada, I didn't bother checking). The shop I went to last time ordered me one in, Part no. 430-11A Rockford But they look like the same as what's in there. Its dimensions are: ~0.947", ~2.335" overall length, ~1.697" from the outer edges of the ring landings, the center body is ~0.860" across. The biggest downside to these are the grease fitting, which is a weird dimpled design I haven't encountered before. So you will probably want to get some regular zerks. Anyway, the non-serviceable, unservicable, non-replaceable, thing is definitely not accurate. Here are some lookup sites:https://www.gmb.net/u-joint-lookup/ https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal-joints-ujoints.asp https://spicerparts.com/resources/measuring-u-joints https://neapco.mycarparts.net/show_attributes/22 And this is what installing them looked like: Edited January 11, 2021 by Oblithian Added reference material for installation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted July 8 Share Posted July 8 (edited) Just to add to this, my 75 has .947" bearing caps, and 1.65" land spacing on the yokes. Based on that, TUS-11a (430-11a) is what Jason at Driveline1 in Columbus Ohio recommended. I had previously purchased the 430-10s, and a 1501 X from RockAuto, neither of which were the right size for my 75. I had to grind out the stakes to remove the Ujoint Edited July 8 by HusseinHolland Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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