lester Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Finally got my car ready to get the body kit install, but before i send it to the guy whose installing it i wanted to know what i can do to the kit to make the peices stronger. Its an msa type two kit. Ive hear that adding a metal strip on the inside of the air dam and molding it in helps? Any ideas are appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 more fiberglass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHO-Z Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Fiberglass rope or matt. Soak it in resin and lay into where you need the added strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82gtu Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 (edited) More fiberglass alone will make it heavier. The strongest and lightest way is to use wood or a dense foam to make a beam in the glass. It's like you're turning a piece of flat stock into a L shape, the L is stiffer. It does'nt have to be real thick, a 1/4 inch thick with a few layers of glass cloth will stiffen it up. And it can be a 2-6 inches wide. In the bottom of the doors or undertrays a foam core mat was used to make large flat areas stiffer without alot of added weight. Also just use enough resin to get the cloth wet, there is no strength in resin. Edited July 13, 2011 by 82gtu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 I wouldn't use wood or metal. You can use foam but it doesn't need to be very dense. It would probably be easier and cheaper just to use cardboard. That said, the extra glass weight would be negligible, there's no reason to overcomplicate the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82gtu Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 If you want cheap and easy use paint stir sticks end to end, cover with cloth/mat/cloth layers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 Wood is at least three times as heavy as fiberglass... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lester Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 Weight isnt really a problem for me. Im just looking for the easiest, cheapest way to make these parts stronger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 I like the idea of the paint sticks and the cardboard. Cheap and easy just like the street walkers we have in these parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4everDATSUN Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Nomex honeycomb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh280z Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 flat bars of aluminum glassed in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 "S" glass is stiffer, race cars use nomex cores pretty often. Lots of discussion here about covering the hole between the airdam and the rad core support. If you did that the right way, you could strengthen the air dam in the process. bjhines had a pretty detailed writeup on his solution there. I think there was a bunch on the wind tunnel thread as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndyAndTheSea Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 (edited) Also, the strength is entirely dependent on the fiber orientation. So, for example, if you wanted torsional strength, going with a bixial fiberglass would be nice (fibers are at -45 and 45). Taylor the fiber directions according to where you want to increase the strength. Edited January 27, 2014 by OldAndyAndTheSea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elkarin1984 Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 I was wondering the same thing, the Z i bought came with a air dam that has a few holes drilled into it on the center section, but since there is no support under it, when i tried to install a set of hella fogs on it i could see the light go up and down. But I was not really looking into reinforce it with fibers, but if you do, make sure you get enough fiberglass and it can be lay up alternating the orientation (ie. some at 0*, 45*, 90*, and -45*) to make a stronger reinforcement. I work at a composite repair shop for helicopters now, prior to that at a composite repair shop for aircraft part, and thats how it was done.... Of cource it is easier to work with pre-preg material that dry materials, since you cut the dry material and it can warp after being soaked. The best way to do it is cut big pieces so that one mat will be used for each orientation and place them in release film (i don't know what would be suitable to keep the glass soaked in resin to bond to a regular plastic bag, maybe alcohol wiped onto the bag) butafter you have the glass at in the bag, pour the resin, sequeeze really good and then mark the strips on the outside of the bag and cut (you'll be using the bag to keep the fibers from warping) just be sure to remove the bottom film (bag material) to lay it onto the piece you want to reinforce, once its in place remove the outer piece of bag and lay your next strip the same way.... Key is to make sure no bag is left between plies other wise teh bag will peel out along with everything lay-up after that.... Sound like a lot, but a little bit of research on the mater and it becomes a piece of cake. Now on my behalf, is there a reinforcement bar that can be placed on the under side of the aftermarket airdam to keep it from shaking??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 We all just fab up some sort of aluminum or steel support bracing. The big aluminum sheet "splitter" is the current trend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 What about laying out some ribs with adhesive backed foam (sold as weatherstripping) and then fiberglassing over it? Might need to cover the foam in foil to prevent the resin from melting it, but it seems like an easy way of adding rigidity with minimal weight and retaining some flexibility. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndyAndTheSea Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Or just use some some unidirectional carbon in 0 and 45 axis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Don't overlook the fact that stiffening certain areas will redistribute loads to others. You could end up with a nice stiff plank that rips out its mounting points or bends the parts it's attached to. One parking curb doink and you're whole front end is mashed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 (edited) What about laying out some ribs with adhesive backed foam (sold as weatherstripping) and then fiberglassing over it? Might need to cover the foam in foil to prevent the resin from melting it, but it seems like an easy way of adding rigidity with minimal weight and retaining some flexibility. I've seen small PVC pipe fiberglassed into something before, like 1/2". It's flexible and easily bent with heat, and shouldn't melt. It may have even been split in half. Edited March 10, 2014 by socorob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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