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Leon's 260Z


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LEON, I still can't believe you got such a great deal on those parts. I HATE YOU WITH A PASSION. LOL

:)

 

Looks awesome car!

Which engine are you going to put it in?

Thanks! I'm planning to build an L28. Not sure if I'm going to use the E31 I got with it or prep another head. I'll try to start a thread on the new car today!

Edited by Leon
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  • 4 weeks later...

I got another Z!

 

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This one was a b-day gift from the future inlaws. :)

 

Back on topic, the Z is naked front and back!

 

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I sold the air dam today since I've had a new one sitting in my storage for years. New one will be installed soon, but I'm not in a huge rush since I've sent out the tail light trim to be re-chromed (9teen7t240z runs a nice service for this).

 

Before pics:

 

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When removing the tails, I noticed that the left tail light gasket was in pretty bad shape. I've got a new one coming from MSA, and I'm hoping the fume issue gets a little better...

 

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  • 1 month later...

Finally, some work done on the Z! I finally installed the correct speedo gear a week or two ago. I think this is the first time I've had a Z with a (somewhat) correct speedo reading. :lol:

 

On Thursday morning before work, I sanded and painted my tail light panels as well as the license plate light.

 

Primed and ready for paint:

 

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I finished painting them and left for the day. For anyone that's curious, the paint is from O'Reilly's and is Nissan "Precision Grey". The tail light trim came back from the platers 2 weeks ago and by Friday the paint was dry so I finally assembled the tail lights.

 

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I also finally installed the "new" air dam on Friday. I had sold my old one since I had another one lying around in better shape. It's the same Xenon Type 1 style, just in better shape.

 

Yesterday (Saturday) morning, I gave her a wash and went off to the Shokuji J-tin show in San Leandro. The show was a blast, probably the most fun one I've been to! It was at a great venue and was just big enough to be able to check out each car and talk with owners without feeling overwhelmed. It all gave the show a very nice, calm atmosphere. Saw some awesome machinery including Darius' insane supercharged LS1 Z, couldn't stop staring at that thing! I definitely look forward to attending more of Ivan and James' events.

 

Parked for the day

 

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Managed to fit a set of 4 wheels+tires into the Z, along with some miscellaneous items. I arranged a deal for someone to pick the wheels up at the show. I wait until after 1pm and finally call the guy. I ask him about picking up the wheels and he says, "well I looked at them, and they were a little too rough for me. I'm going to pass". Now, the wheels are in great shape so I'm a bit in awe about him thinking they in poor shape. Then, I realize something. There's a guy in the swap meet section of the meet selling VERY similar wheels. Turns out, the buyer talked to him thinking he was me. GREAT! I had to haul the wheels back home, this time with my buddy tossing 2 into his MS3.

 

Anybody want some old-school Appliance turbine wheels for cheap? :-D

 

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Bright and early

 

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I didn't take many pics but this 86 was awesome!

 

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It was a great day in the sun. I just need to remember to put on sunscreen and a hat next time...

 

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And safely back home :)

 

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Edited by Leon
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  • 3 weeks later...

It was nice out yesterday so I finally decided to take a decent driving video of the Z. The tune is acceptable but I want leaner AFRs across the board while maintaining crisp throttle response. When going to WOT, I made sure to stomp on the pedal. No feathering the throttle here!

 

Current setup:

- L24/E88 longblock (stock cam)

- 280Z 5-speed & 3.9 R200 (open)

- Nissan Motorsport header into 2" duals

- EDIS/Megajolt ignition

- 40DCOE Webers (120 main, 120 air, 03 e-tube by Keith Franck, H221 idles/"hypojets" by KF, 53 pumps & zero bleed)

 

 

I'm planning to drop the idles (to H18) and mains (to 115) and possibly go to a 4-hole (O4) e-tube if I experience throttle-response issues. I also have stiffer internal throttle return springs in the garage waiting to be installed. I'm hoping that those will completely solve my return-to-idle issues.

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Leon, how's your timing?

Do you think it is optimized? I believe if you're using advance correction with MAP or TPS, it could also help when going at WOT in lower gears.

Car sounds good & healthy too!

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Hey Matt,

 

I wouldn't say timing is optimized. My map is MAP based (ha!). I did have it on a dyno and hashed out a decent WOT curve. I also did a little bit of part-throttle tuning, but not much as my mixture wasn't close yet. I'm trying to get the mixture where I want it and then I'll do another dyno day. :)

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Your MJLJ ignition helps I'm sure. I can't wait to tune mine :)

I'll be able to experience the different between "regular" mech advance system & full 3D ignition (I've chosen TPS for now)

 

Is your MJLJ set up yet? What do you have left before "take-off"? I remember reading that you were close to finished.

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Everything is running but I've got some side projects to take care of prior to run the car and tune it: gas tank, fuses blowing and engine tapping.

Gas tank is done, I found why fuses were melting, I still need to take care of rockers.

The car should be on the roads by next week :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Somehow I've ended up with a third set of triple Webers... :lol:  (thanks to TJ and Superdan)

 

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The carbs are 40DCOE151 and will be replacing the 40DCOE18 set that is currently on the car. The intake is a TWM and I'm unsure on whether I'll run it on this car or on the L28 going into the other Z.

 

It's a tough call since my MJLJ uses MAP to sense engine load which makes the Cannon favorable, since it has a built-in balance tube. My 45s are also sitting on a Cannon but that manifold has been port-matched and had the linkage modified.

 

Decisions...

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Leon, are you switching to the 151's because of the air-bleed screws?  And I think the other change on the 151's was the aux venturi's moving to a set-screw instead of friction spring, correct?  Just curious as to the change...and is the TWM manifold shorter than the cannon?  What kind of gain can be had with a shorter manifold, high-rpm flow increase?  More room for longer air horns?  How many questions can I fit in one post?

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Leon, are you switching to the 151's because of the air-bleed screws?  And I think the other change on the 151's was the aux venturi's moving to a set-screw instead of friction spring, correct?  Just curious as to the change...and is the TWM manifold shorter than the cannon?  What kind of gain can be had with a shorter manifold, high-rpm flow increase?  More room for longer air horns?  How many questions can I fit in one post?

 

All good questions! ;)

 

You're correct, the biggest reason for the switch to the 151s are the air-bleed screws, with a little bit of "newer is better" mixed in. The 151s had a few minor changes besides the air-bleeds compared to the older carbs, with aux venturi fastening being one of them.

 

The main reason for getting the TWM is the quality of the manifold. Cannons have 3 rod ends (for the main throttle rod) which never seem to be drilled along a single centerline. I've also removed a few pieces of nasty casting flash from mine. The difference here is that the TWM has 2 rod ends (less susceptible to binding) and no balance tube.

 

The balance tube is great for equalizing vacuum levels which steadies the MAP reading for the Megajolt and also makes the setup more forgiving regarding barrel-to-barrel variations. However, this equalizing of vacuum inherently leads to cross-talk between cylinders and mixture-robbing. For example, take an L-series with a 240* intake valve duration (assume 120* lobe center). The #1 piston is approaching TDC and the #1 intake valve opens at 30*BTDC. The engine spins until 90*ATDC at #1. Since our firing order is 153624 and each cylinder is 120* apart, the #5 piston approaches TDC and the #5 intake valve opens at 30*BTDC (BTDC relative to #5 piston). However, 30*BTDC at #5 means that the #1 piston is only half-way down its bore. What this means, is that at least 2 valves are open (with longer durations, you get 3 cylinders into the mix) at the same time (#1 and #5 in this example) with the next valve opening near max lift of the previous valve in the firing order. With a large balance tube in place, the two cylinders will interact with each other. As you can imagine, this cross-talk can make for "funky" (technical term :D) dynamics, with possibilities like cylinders drawing from each other. Sorry for the overly-technical explanation...

 

I've actually not measured the difference in runner length yet but that's not as big of a deal since that can always be played with by varying air horn lengths.

Edited by Leon
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Thank you Leon, follow on question: on my redline manifold, there is "webbing" if you will connecting all the runners for support/strength. On runner 1 and 2, the runners are connected via a 1/4" hole drilled through this support, essentially allowing runner 1&2 to balance each other on the front carb. The reason I assume this was done was because of the port drilled into the manifold of runner 2 for the brake booster.

 

Now for the question, I noticed during measurement w the synchrometer that the front carb flowed higher than the center and rear carb (front carb: 7, center: 6, rear: 5.5). Could the larger discrepancy be part of the "cross-talk" you mentioned above because cylinder 1&2 are drawing from each other, causing a slightly larger vacuum on the gauge? And would it make sense to take that into consideration when balancing? I had to turn the mixture screws for barrels 1&2 in quite a bit to bring it down to the lowest flowing carb.

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