Tony D Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 I asked the question once upon a time. Nobody came up with an answer. I lurked on this thread to see where it went. Interesting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alonso* Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Maybe you guys should look at how other nissan engines are setup. Ka24de,RB2xdet(t),sr20det all have oil squirters that I know of. My ka24de taps directly into the main bearing galley for the oil squirters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctc Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 (edited) Tim, how deep do you need to tap the threads for the banjo bolt? Can you please take some photos of the squiter with a ruler to get some approximate dimensions? Edited May 21, 2012 by ctc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctc Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Ok, So I was out the garage taking pictures of the block. Photo one shows the location of the main oil galley that runs the length of the block (red line). The blue circles show the most likely canidate for squirter locations. Photo two shows the front main bearing. Again, red shows the oil galleys and blue shows possible squiter locations. Based on the location of the main bearing feeds, I don't think it would be possible to locate a squirter one the main bearing feed. Also, looking at the bearing, I don't think the squiter in the main bearing cap would work very well. It would take a lot of mods, and the crank would shield the piston for some part of each revolution. Photo three is the one JohnC posted earlier. I wanted to show that with a knife edged crank, the blue circled location would be a very good location for a squirter with very little potential for piston or crank interferance. I think all you would need to do is spot face the block and drill and tap for the squirter. One note of caution that I have found in most of my research on others who have done this, is that piston and crank interferance will be engine specific and must be checked on assembly. I think with the stoker crank, things would get very tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Tim, how deep do you need to tap the threads for the banjo bolt? Can you please take some photos of the squiter with a ruler to get some approximate dimensions? Looks like you will have to tap threads at least 10mm deep. Sorry I didn't get a pic next to a ruler, but the article that you linked to did have one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Long weekend - had a bit more progress... Looks like this is going to clear on all 6 cylinders - I checked both the crank throws and the piston. Also the location shown intersects the main oil galley nicely and leaves plenty of material for tapping threads, even after sinking the flat a bit deeper to allow the nozzle to hug the block a more closely. I think I'm going to want to tweak the aim of the nozzle a bit to get better distribution of oil across the piston - anybody have any pics of how these are aimed in OEM installations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 How many motors does this guy have? Jeeze Looks neat, are you going to angle the nozzle a little more out towards the piston pin rather than just rotate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 (edited) How many motors does this guy have? Jeeze Looks neat, are you going to angle the nozzle a little more out towards the piston pin rather than just rotate? Its just the one motor That's pretty much as far towards the center that I can rotate in order to stay out of the crank throws, so about all I can do is angle the spray out a bit. Currently it's aimed almost identically to your second pic. I'm considering aiming it such that it sprays just past the pin at TDC, so that I can get oil to the other side of the piston as well, i.e., it would spray the near side at BDC and the far side at TDC. After looking at it in this light I think that the current orientation (rotation-wise) is probably better than pointing more toward the center, where the rod would be in the way of getting oil to the far side. Does that make sense? Edited May 29, 2012 by TimZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Yah I see what you mean. Maybe from the angle of your second picture, it makes it look like you will only spray the skirt or just that one side of the piston. These are still the BMW $17 oil squirters right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 These are still the BMW $17 oil squirters right? Correct - I just ordered the other five. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 (edited) Update - got the bottom end put back together today, and took some pics of the squirters: I aimed (bent) the nozzle out and towards the center a bit, to try to aim it just under (above when it's right-side up) the piston pin at BDC, so hopefully the oil will disperse across the underside of the crown: Edited June 24, 2012 by TimZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 That stuff is moving around so fast, you can't help but get the oil where you need it once it's up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neotech84 Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 (edited) Way to go! The question I have is; how are you going to measure your results? It will be hard to quantify the effect you have made without some before and after comparison. I know you were just covering all your bases, but the other members will demand data! You sir might have caused a revolution. Edit: spelling Edited June 24, 2012 by neotech84 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimO Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 You sir might have caused a revolution. It's not the first time Tim has created a revolution. Way to go Tim..again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Do you have good clearance piston skirt to nozzle, as my pistons have a 1/2 moon relief in the skirts to clear the squirters on my RB26 motor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Do you have good clearance piston skirt to nozzle, as my pistons have a 1/2 moon relief in the skirts to clear the squirters on my RB26 motor... Yes- in the pic above the piston is pretty much at BDC, so plenty of room there. As far as my plans to quantify the results, I don't really have any. I'm not looking at this as a means to increase performance. To me this is more akin to the cylinder head coolant flow modifications - intuitively and directionally correct and should help with longevity, but pretty hard to come up with hard proof that it worked. If something breaks right away I guess that woyld be a different story, or if i (HEAVEN FORBID) end up with oil pressure issues then that's worth reporting. Aside from that, I'm looking at this as something that should be a belts-and-suspenders approach to control the amount of heat in the piston and therefore leave it with a much better margin of safety at 600+ rwhp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Looks great, always love to see what is done to get the most out of this most excellent engine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neotech84 Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 I see.... You could get some dino time in with the squirters installed so you can tune and set your upper level and gather data. Then drop the pan, remove and install some plugs. Then see if your data is the same. Sounds simple enough!! Keep us posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 I see.... You could get some dino time in with the squirters installed so you can tune and set your upper level and gather data. Then drop the pan, remove and install some plugs. Then see if your data is the same. Sounds simple enough!! Keep us posted. Ummm, yyyyeeeeaaaahhh... I'll get right on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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