motorhead87 Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 looking at this Z just wanted some expert input. car is complete, interior is apart but all there. engine is a L28 and runs well with dual su's. car is a 73 240z clean title good tires brakes, new glass and weather seals all around. only problem is the rust on the passenger door has eaten through the outer skin and the rails under the car are rotten. i'm post pictures when i get home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 The "help asap!" in your title is funny since there's not much useful information in your post. It's a rusty 1973 240Z with a replacement L28 running carbs, for an unknown price. What advice could an expert offer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 In Arizona you should be able to find a nice mostly rust free car. Run from rust,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 A lot depends on the price. Anything can be fixed but cost more if you have it done vs doing it yourself. If you have the skills and can get the car cheap enough do it. Be prepared to find more rust then what you see. Always seems to be that way with Z's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorhead87 Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 sorry when i posted it i added some pictures but they didn't take i guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 It looks weathered. If the door and rails are rusted through/rotted it is likley that you will find other rotted out areas. I would pass on this one. Do yourself a huge favor and keep looking for a stock Z with minimum rust, original wiring and has not been chopped up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 Do you go to asu? My cousin lives there and I actually broke down in Scottsdale like 4 days ago. As for the car I would buy it for cheap or expecting to part of out or strip it and build it from the ground up. Either way I would only get it cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorhead87 Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 (edited) Do you go to asu? My cousin lives there and I actually broke down in Scottsdale like 4 days ago. As for the car I would buy it for cheap or expecting to part of out or strip it and build it from the ground up. Either way I would only get it cheap. Yes I do go to ASU, that's no fun about the breakdown but I guess it happens...yeah i'm definitely looking for minimum rust, I have only looked at a few so far and don't write have a scale of what is acceptable and what isn't on these cars. I realize they are 40 years old so yeah. What would you define as CHEAP in this scenario? Only reason i asked this "asap" is that i have a trailer available only till tomorrow afternoon so if i want this one, I'd need to get it quick. Edited August 16, 2012 by motorhead87 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tecreatta Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 200 is the highest I would go. That car is toast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 Your pictures seem to show everything except the rust you mentioned, through the door skin and the rotten rails under the car. Maybe I'm not good at looking at internet pictures but I don't see a lot of deep rust damage. Lots of surface rust, but no major holes. My 76 has a row of rust holes along the bottom third of the both doors but the rest of the car is solid. I think that Nissan's design for keeping water out of the doors was poor. The car might be fine except for the doors, and might be a good buy. I don't see where it's "toast" at all. Floor pans and under the battery are common rust spots, that can rust completely away. Check those out. Take a picture of the rusted out frame rails. Look in the spare tire well for rust. Check the fuse box area for rust and corrosion that would indicate water got in that could affect the wiring. You said it runs but does it drive? Things like brake cylinders, calipers, clutch and brake master cylinders, clutch slave cylinder, etc. will nickel and dime you in to the hundreds for sure, maybe thousands more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorhead87 Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 (edited) Battery was solid, he had used POR-15 on it as well as couple other places. the second picture i posted shows the worst rust, i think i have one more better one. not sure if it drives, i think it does but not 100%. it is all intact though i traced the lines and all is there Edited August 16, 2012 by motorhead87 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutchdust Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 At least from the pictures you supplied, it doesn't look too bad. But you described much worse. So which is it? And by the way, would you mind actually posting how much the seller is asking? It might go a long way in determining. For $200, I'd say jump on it. For $2000, no way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorhead87 Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 Seller has it listed at 2500, could easily talk him down but I'd guess 2000 maybe 1500 at a minimum. He has purchased about that much in new pieces he says; seals, brakes, lines, seat skins, dash cap, center consol, umm can't think of what else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ineedboost Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 I would pass on a rusty car in AZ. I looked for almost a year but i found a shell in Mesa with no motor/trans for $500(completely rust free.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger280zx Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 If I was in AZ I'd give a grand just to get all the parts + good engine ect., then I'd buy a less complete rust free shell for peanuts and build a nice car from the two of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan95i4 Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 (edited) I went all the way to the other side of the country for a Z with no rust. You're already there. Im no expert, but the advice i see most often is to buy the nicest Z you can afford to start your project and avoid as much cancer/rot as you can. Edited August 16, 2012 by ryan95i4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 Here in CA that's a $500 car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 Well, the car is worth what it's worth to you. I'd say: keep looking. We just bought a '71, very straight frame, floors and frame rails intact, for less than $800. Rust remediation is a PITA unless you have the time, experience, & tools (and/or $$$). Buy a solid foundation, the rest is fairly easy. Most AZ cars are fairly rust-free, but there are an awful lot of cars here that came from somewhere else... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 I'm getting my zed ready for sale and I hope to get what I can out of it. When I got mine originally there was no real rust, but since then the frame rails need to be either capped or replaced with new metal. make sure you tap on the rubber undercoating on the rails/floors since they can hide it easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snailed Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 That one needs a lot of rust repair. I would give him no more than $800 IF you are excited about doing lots of patches, otherwise pass on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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