Jump to content
HybridZ

Zinc, ZDDP and camshafts - Does anybody worry about this any more?


NewZed

Recommended Posts

I've put over 20,000 miles each on two old high mileage L28 engines, using a variety of modern oils from Quaker State 20-50W to Pennzoil 10-40W (whatever's on sale) and have not seen any signs of camshaft wear.  My valve lash doesn't even change significantly.

 

It seems to me that there might have been a problem in the early days of removing zinc from oil formulations but that the oil manufacturers have since fixed the problem.  The whole zinc thing is old news and the high zinc formulations are unecessary.

 

Has anyone seen that using today's oils, today, from a reputable supplier like Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, etc., without added zinc, will wear out an already broken-in camshaft?  How many people spend extra money to get added zinc complex in their oil?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMHO, the less zinc issue is way overblown.  I spent 26 large on a race engine and the engine builder said Mobil 1 was perfect.  No issues in 50+ hours.

But... the engine builder for a customer car feels that the zinc issue is significant.  He recommends Shell Rotella T Triple Protection, T5 (syn blend) or T6 (full syn).  I'm leaning toward the Rotella T6 mostly because its a full synthetic and is almost half the price of Mobil 1.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My can grinder wanted me to use valvoline vr1, which has zinc included. I picked up my lash pads from another grinder and gave me a bottle of Elgin zinc additive. He told me it would protect my cam and can run with any oil. Even gave me some backstory of why zinc isn't used in brand new cars. I'm going to take his word since the can isn't that expensive, a lot cheaper than buying 5 quarts of vr1.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many of the high mile motors i've seen have cam wear.  Based on that I opted to use it.  The problem is most pronounced with lower quality regrind cams during break in.  I'm just basing this on reports from what others have experienced, so I would not consider myself an expert. 

 

If oil companies have changed oils to compensate, then what is it they have done?  I'm not biased either way, just looking for supporting evidence. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The EP additives that are required in flat-tappet valvetrains have been removed from more modern oils because they aren't needed in a fully rollerized valvetrain. No sliding friction=no EP additives needed.

 

That said, Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic is all I run in the car now, as it still has the flat-tappet additive package in it. I buy it from the local oil distributor for 3.46/qt, but I have to buy a case at a time. It's not expensive stuff guys, you just need to know who to buy from.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The EP additives that are required in flat-tappet valvetrains have been removed from more modern oils because they aren't needed in a fully rollerized valvetrain. No sliding friction=no EP additives needed.

 

That said, Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic is all I run in the car now, as it still has the flat-tappet additive package in it. I buy it from the local oil distributor for 3.46/qt, but I have to buy a case at a time. It's not expensive stuff guys, you just need to know who to buy from.

I think the sequence of events described is backwards here, but is on the right track.

 

Phosphorous & Zinc have been VERY EFFECTIVE additive package elements from day one. In the early 90's phosphorous was removed from large industrial engine oils because of it's tendency to poison catalysts... And HERE is the key.

 

The EPA MANDATED 100,000 mile Catalyst Life, and emissions compliance.

 

AS A RESULT OF THIS zinc & phosphorous were removed from LIGHT DUTY VEHICLE lubricants. (You note the emissions regulations for heavy duty trucks...which the recommended oils come from are quite different!)

 

As OEM's experienced the first wave of 100% failure rates in testing, the engineering alternative to using a 100,000 mile/10 Year Emissions-Compliant Oil was to rollerize the valve train.

 

It was the EMISSIONS REQUIREMENT that drove Zinc out of the Oils, and rollerized valve trains are the result...not vice-versa!

 

Poisioning of catalysts is the issue with the additive package...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That sounds like a reasonable chain of events.  Firm deadlines will drive a company to expensive decisions though.  I'd be surprised if there weren't parallel efforts by the oil companies to make an oil that would do the job, 100,000 miles, without the P and Zn, but they just ran out of time.  When the deadline gets close and the decisions get made a lot of good stuff gets left on the shelf.  I wonder if their efforts toward a better oil made it to market anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I no my dad ran into issues with this when he went to Chevy dual valve springs (LS3) on his air cooled vw motors. He wiped them as early as cam break in, and in first run of the race. It would wipe the cam and pit the lifters. Major problem, did not here about stock setups being much of a problem.

 

He tried the additives and different oils, Valvoline, amsoil. I think he even tried the old GM oil leftover from the 70's. Major issue was the spring rate over the nose and something  about the lifter quit spinning. He ended up  going with aftermarket engine blocks and roller lifters. When your turning 9000+ rpms he needed to have springs that would hold the valves shut ,, ie no valve float.

 

I know there are oils out there that have added the zinc, Valvoline and amsoil. A good preventative for what you have your hard earned money invested in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The EP additives that are required in flat-tappet valvetrains have been removed from more modern oils because they aren't needed in a fully rollerized valvetrain. No sliding friction=no EP additives needed.

 

That said, Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic is all I run in the car now, as it still has the flat-tappet additive package in it. I buy it from the local oil distributor for 3.46/qt, but I have to buy a case at a time. It's not expensive stuff guys, you just need to know who to buy from.

 

 

Wish I had a hook-up like this, Im paying $60/case through amazon... it is nice just having it show up at my door though :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No lie, people, there is a line on the CA Tax form for recovering SALES TAX for "items bought on the internet, out of state and brought into the state, ..."

 

Luckily Ohio has full reciprocity with CA, and the Tax collected in OH will not be RE-PAID in CA upon registration of the Vehicle there! Oblay EEmay, Aliforniakay!

 

Good thing I don't buy anything outside the state. Always traveling for work, long days. Never get a chance to shop. Good thing, too! Don't need more accounting headaches!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...