tamo3 Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 My plan was to use Series 1 240Z drive shaft which is shorter and should fit 71c conversion. However, I found out the pinion flange is different from R180 and R200. Thus, I need to shorten driveshaft. I brought 280Z drive shaft to SouthBay Driveline and they get it shorted $150 in a day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 After battling wiring mess with power windows, power lock, Viper Security system, Alpine head set, finally, I figured out. I made mistake for custom starter relay wiring. I connect custom relay to Yellow/Black line to starter. That's causes breaking relay and frequently run starter even though after starting engine. I had to connect Black/Yellow instead! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted September 13, 2017 Author Share Posted September 13, 2017 After 3 years trouble shooting custom wiring... Finally, it's fired up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted December 19, 2017 Author Share Posted December 19, 2017 Working on the Lancer Evo8 seat swap. There is one bold I could not remove for long time. Finally, I decided to weld it and take it off! Purchased 5mm thick flat bar at HomeDepot to cut to make a frame. And drilled M8 size hole. Installed the flat bar. In order to mount original '75 280z seat rail, I need to drill a hole on itself to adjust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted December 20, 2017 Author Share Posted December 20, 2017 Drilled a hole on original 280z frame. Finally, seats are installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 Just went through 8 pages such an inspiration especially since we got snow here in Canada. Lots of good info in the tread too keep at it! So did you end up using the series 1 driveshaft? Because it does have flange for r180 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 No, I since mine is 280z with R200, I need to use shorten 280z drive shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 Now installing shifter. I swap with B&M short shifter. B&M shifter is so solid made. There is spring and retainer parts. I forgot the order to put them in. I found the thread about B&M shifter assembly. This is really helpful for me to put them back. http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=281601 The shifter has a white bushing and that is SO tight! I need to use hummer to tap it in. Once bushing is inserted, it's not hard to screw in. Looking good! Now I need to think about the cover.... Original rubber cover won't fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 6 minutes ago, tamo3 said: Now I need to think about the cover.... Original rubber cover won't fit. Check out my solution to this, starting with picture 37... http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04484JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-276268 It's held up for going on 10 years now. Nigel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 Thanks Nigel, that’s great solution and 10 years warrenty comes with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 OR you could flip the whole 240z shift boot with flange and drill new holes. Another thing you can do is put a cork on that first hole and clamp it and make a new hole in the shift boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 I decided to use 240SX rubber parts. trace the frame and cut it out. It has two layers. Since mine is short shifter, it does not touch the frame at all. But it has some gap. I end up adding original shift boot on the top of 240sx boot cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 (edited) I purchase cheap leather outer shift cover from ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shift-Boot-Real-Leather-For-Datsun-240z-260z-280z-Manual-Black/181378028504?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I was not soft, not flexible. I learned that putting Vaseline and leave it night will soften leather. So, I put it all over it and leave it night. Edited January 7, 2018 by tamo3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 It gets softer. I wiped out Vaseline and put it on to the center console. The clips are so hard to put them on. Especially, leather is thicker than fake leather. But, the leather boots cover is too long, Shift nob will be hidden... I removed it and compare with the original one. It is way too long. I cut it sort. Now it looks better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted January 14, 2018 Author Share Posted January 14, 2018 (edited) Electric Mod is done. Install Moded Autometer Tachometer with shift change light Install Alpine stereo with power amp Install Power lock Install Power Window Install Viper Alarm with auto window roll up Remove shunt add relays add fusebox for constant add fusebox for IGN add relay and fuse for the starter add relay and fuse for head lights Remove transistor Swap ammeter to voltmeter Swap to 280zx dizzy Swap to GM CS-144 alternator Swap interior light bulb to blue LED Edited January 14, 2018 by tamo3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted October 23, 2018 Author Share Posted October 23, 2018 (edited) I have struggled with the Clutch Slave Cylinder. https://youtu.be/C-_NZFeVp1I It always almost fully extended. I replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder with cheap CENTRIC 139.42002 from Rockauto.com. It costs $6.32..... I replace Clutch Master Cylinder to 15/17 version from 280ZX too. Today, I purchased Genuine Clutch Slave Cylinder from Nissan Parts center. It still available to purchase. It costs $75.... I compare the size with aftermarket Clutch Slave Cylinder. The aftermarket cylinder has stronger and longer spring inside. The rod length is almost same. due to the spring, the default length is longer than OEM version. This could be the reason, the slave cylinder is pushing too much on the fork. Edited October 23, 2018 by tamo3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 Here is a picture I took a while ago that might help you figure out where your problem is. It's the distance from the clutch fork to the head of one of the slave cylinder mounting bolts, on a properly working clutch system. It should tell you if you have the correct TOB sleeve inside. A short sleeve will measure more than 6 cm, a too-tall one will measure less. This is the starting point, and travel is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted October 24, 2018 Author Share Posted October 24, 2018 Thanks NewZed for the info. Is this photo taken when you step on the clutch pedal or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted October 24, 2018 Author Share Posted October 24, 2018 When I check current OEM slave cylinder, it’s about 6.5cm when i’m not pressing clutch pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 Seems like that should work fine. A few mm there will probably be less than one mm at the TBO due to the ratio of the fork. It's not clear what problem that you're having. I watched your video and see that the piston is far down its stroke. But I don't know what the total stroke length is. Are you saying that when you press the pedal the fork doesn't move? If you were at the the end of the stroke the piston should pop out of the bore. My picture was taken with the pedal up. It was just me, a steel rule, and a camera. I'm going to go out and see if I can push the rod and piston back as far as you do in your video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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