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10 years after hybernation - '75 280z

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My plan was to use Series 1 240Z drive shaft which is shorter and should fit 71c conversion.

However, I found out the pinion flange is different from R180 and R200.

Thus, I need to shorten driveshaft.


I brought 280Z drive shaft to SouthBay Driveline and they get it shorted $150 in a day!





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After battling wiring mess with power windows, power lock, Viper Security system, Alpine head set, finally, I figured out.

I made mistake for custom starter relay wiring.

I connect custom relay to Yellow/Black line to starter. That's causes breaking relay and frequently run starter even though after starting engine.

I had to connect Black/Yellow instead!


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  • 3 months later...

Working on the Lancer Evo8 seat swap.

There is one bold I could not remove for long time.


Finally, I decided to weld it and take it off!



Purchased 5mm thick flat bar at HomeDepot to cut to make a frame.




And drilled M8 size hole.



Installed the flat bar.

In order to mount original '75 280z seat rail, I need to drill a hole on itself to adjust.


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  • 2 weeks later...

Now installing shifter.

I swap with B&M short shifter.



B&M shifter is so solid made.

There is spring and retainer parts. I forgot the order to put them in.




I found the thread about B&M shifter assembly. This is really helpful for me to put them back.



The shifter has a white bushing and that is SO tight!  I need to use hummer to tap it in.



Once bushing is inserted, it's not hard to screw in.





Looking good!



Now I need to think about the cover.... Original rubber cover won't fit.




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6 minutes ago, tamo3 said:



Now I need to think about the cover.... Original rubber cover won't fit.




Check out my solution to this, starting with picture 37...




It's held up for going on 10 years now.



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I decided to use 240SX rubber parts.

trace the frame and cut it out.


It has two layers.




Since mine is short shifter, it does not touch the frame at all.



But it has some gap.



I end up adding original shift boot on the top of 240sx boot cover.


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I purchase cheap leather outer shift cover from ebay.



I was not soft, not flexible.




I learned that putting Vaseline and leave it night will soften leather.




So, I put it all over it and leave it night.


Edited by tamo3
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It gets softer.

I wiped out Vaseline and put it on to the center console. The clips are so hard to put them on. Especially, leather is thicker than fake leather.5a51b24bb023d_Photo6-01-1855553PM.jpg.1df9ee57ca4799d0c95b721b746ead9e.jpg



But, the leather boots cover is too long,  Shift nob will be hidden...



I removed it and compare with the original one.




It is way too long.


I cut it sort.



Now it looks better.






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Electric Mod is done.

  • Install Moded Autometer Tachometer with shift change light
  • Install Alpine stereo with power amp
  • Install Power lock
  • Install Power Window
  • Install Viper Alarm with auto window roll up 
  • Remove shunt
  • add relays
  • add fusebox for constant
  • add fusebox for IGN
  • add relay and fuse for the starter
  • add relay and fuse for head lights
  • Remove transistor
  • Swap ammeter to voltmeter
  • Swap to 280zx dizzy
  • Swap to GM CS-144 alternator
  • Swap interior light bulb to blue LED


Edited by tamo3
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  • 9 months later...

I have struggled with the Clutch Slave Cylinder.



It always almost fully extended.


I replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder with cheap CENTRIC 139.42002 from Rockauto.com. It costs $6.32.....

I replace Clutch Master Cylinder to 15/17 version from 280ZX too.


Today, I purchased Genuine Clutch Slave Cylinder from Nissan Parts center.


It still available to purchase. It costs $75....


I compare the size with aftermarket Clutch Slave Cylinder.



The aftermarket cylinder has stronger and longer spring inside. The rod length is almost same.



due to the spring, the default length is longer than OEM version.


This could be the reason, the slave cylinder is pushing too much on the fork.



Edited by tamo3
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Here is a picture I took a while ago that might help you figure out where your problem is.  It's the distance from the clutch fork to the head of one of the slave cylinder mounting bolts, on a properly working clutch system.  It should tell you if you have the correct TOB sleeve inside.  A short sleeve will measure more than 6 cm, a too-tall one will measure less.


This is the starting point, and travel is fine.  



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Seems like that should work fine.  A few mm there will probably be less than one mm at the TBO due to the ratio of the fork.


It's not clear what problem that you're having.  I watched your video and see that the piston is far down its stroke.  But I don't know what the total stroke length is.  Are you saying that when you press the pedal the fork doesn't move?  If you were at the the end of the stroke the piston should pop out of the bore.


My picture was taken with the pedal up.  It was just me, a steel rule, and a camera.


I'm going to go out and see if I can push the rod and piston back as far as you do in your video.



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