Sworddylan Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Hello, I know this topic has been absolutely beaten to death, but after 2 days I can't find what I am looking for. I have a 76 280z. And I am going to either turbo it, or to a turbo engine swap. What I can't seem to find, is a straight answer as to the actual differences of the l28e and the turbo model. I have seen posts ranging from dont turbo the na l28e, it won't run well at all, to it Runs great with no problem pushing 15psi From what I have found, the afm, ecu, distributor, cam, oil pump and injectors are the major things different. My goal is 250-300hp at the wheels, running a max of 15psi. I just am not sure what corse to take, I understand the turbo has a little lower compression. But with a metal head gasket, head studs, and some 440 injectors, I don't see an issue running the n47/n42 combination. I like the higher compression, and the bigger valves on the na head. My unanswered questions are, first, what do you guys think about what I have said above? And are the rods different between the turbo and the na, and how much power can the stock bottom end handle? Once again, sorry to bring this up again, just can't seem to find what I am looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 (edited) I think you're not reading what you find. Everything you ask about is well laid out. If nothing else, a download of a 1983 280ZX/ZXT FSM would detail the differences in spades, from The Factory....no supposition, conjecture, or opinion. Side by side spec sheets on components, stuff like that. The FSM Is a FREE downloadable PDF... As for asking about swapping turbo externals to an N/A (WITHOUT MLS Head Gasket)...it's been beaten to death as well, and documented. And SERIOUSLY: "And are the rods different between the turbo and the na, and how much power can the stock bottom end handle? " REALLY? I project shedding....5...4...3...2...1... Edited September 12, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 There is a lot of info and it's hard to dig through all the rubble on here however there is always the constant asking of questions that have been answered. It's tough but you really need to dig hard to get the info on this forum - 99.999% of the question asked have been answered. That said if you do go with a high compression turbo build - run a methanol system (and of course maximize the efficency of your turbo system which is WAY to broad to reply to). All the L series are prone to knocking and this IMHO is a game changer on the L28s... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 This has been covered many times, you have to search and read, its all in the archives. I have a 260z and it has an 83 L28 N/A flat top piston engine, which i added turbo parts to. All N/a engine, My setup: T3/t4 turbo, 440 injectors, Megasquirt 2, 15lbs boost. external wastegate. No metal headgasket is needed. In my opinion stock rods can safely handle up 350hp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sworddylan Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 Well thanks for your input guys. It's not that I haven't searched, or haven't foud answers to my questions, it's that I find differing answers As to rods, I have seen people say that they are identical and people say the turbo rods have been shit peened. I will look into the fsm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Of course you will find differing answers. People have different experinces and some people post the wrong information, which is corrected later in the thread or in a different thread. You have to read and come to your own conclusion. And, downloading the FSM as Tony mentioned above gives you a fairly authoritative source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 All things held constant, with only the compression ratio and the combustion chambers changing, you can turbo your Na block and make that power goal. What happens to most people if the wiring completely messes everyone up and something detonated and they are quick to assume it was not their problem in which most cases it is. Rods are the same, don't believe the hype. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sworddylan Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 Sounds like ill be good to just turbo my engine, put some 440s in that I have from my supra, and other basic fuel mods and ill be good. Plus the engine only has 67,000 on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Sounds like ill be good to just turbo my engine, put some 440s in that I have from my supra, and other basic fuel mods and ill be good. Plus the engine only has 67,000 on it. You will have to change your fuel management if you run those injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 people say the turbo rods have been shit peened. If you were on all-bacon diet you might get some beneficial surface treatment effects but probably not worth the time and/or effort. You probably are getting rods mixed up with pistons. The turbo engines have a different part number for both pistons and piston rings (Honsowetz and Monroe as reference). I don't know what the difference is. If you're going to tear down or refresh things before installing the turbo you night consider a "Hybridz best-practices" route. Do some work on the head unshrouding the valves, which will give a bigger chamber, lowering compression ratio and also give better flow to get the most from every pound of boost. Use an aftermarket EMS, like Megasquirt. Don't spend any money on the bottom end until you're sure the tune isn't going to destroy expensive parts. Etc. Take a few notes as you browse the threads and a good path will appear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue72 Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 I don't know what the difference is. I coulda' sworn that some of this information was on this site somewhere. Couldn't be in the FAQs, that'd be too easy. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/93498-truth-about-l-series-rod-weight-and-l28et-ring-lands/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Good link to some good work. Has anyone followed up with a USA L28E engine? Hate to be picky but that's what the OP has (probably, assuming nobody put a JDM engine in to his 76). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 "How much power can the stock bottom end handle?" ​Been covered EXTENSIVELY and is a ZC.C style question. I think there are even threads on the current pages of various forums where these numbers are even posted. Suffice to say "300RWHP L28ET" is covered every which way from Sunday and is nowhere near "how much power can the stock bottom end handle" and that's something anybody who's read the information just about anywhere on the interwebs can authoritatively state. Nowhere CLOSE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 There is a lot of info and it's hard to dig through all the rubble on here however there is always the constant asking of questions that have been answered. It's tough but you really need to dig hard to get the info on this forum - 99.999% of the question asked have been answered. That said if you do go with a high compression turbo build - run a methanol system (and of course maximize the efficency of your turbo system which is WAY to broad to reply to). All the L series are prone to knocking and this IMHO is a game changer on the L28s... Personally, for those goals I'd skip the meth. You're going to need a way to retard spark under boost, which means either swapping in the turbo ECU + Dizzy, which leads to + Wiring Harness + AFM, etc. At this point you might as well find a whole turbo donor... ...or you do a megasquirt system, which can cost $300/400 or as much as $1500 depending on how fancy you want to go. There's guys that have reached your goals with the super low buck MS options. You will have to change your fuel management if you run those injectors. Agreed, one more reason to go with megasquirt... Quality control of spark and fuel will be key in keeping ANY force induced engine alive. The BIGGEST important difference between the L28et and other L motors is the control systems. Without it, or something comparable, you're lost. Too many of the L24/6/8(e) to ET conversions I've seen blow had to do with either leaving a stock NA dizzy on, or trying to use a NA ECU and/or sensors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 (edited) Most I've seen blow have been through simple greed... Goals aren't quantified, or if they are...once they get there the. Owner twists that bost controller again "just to see what it will do"... "Boom!" I recommend newcomers to boost get a simple mechanical boost controller, put it under the hood and make adjustment of the boost as difficult as possible. If its there at your fingertips...fingeritis sets in and... "Boom!" Edited September 14, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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