madkaw Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 I will get this professionally done in the end, but curious what ways you guys have measured and dialed in your alignment? I just changed out a tie rod end and I want the alignment to be close before driving. I have looked at some you tube videos that use everything from string-lines to tape measures. As you know measuring front inside front wheel to inside front wheel has some obstacles. One suggestion was a straight edge on the outside of the wheel and low enough to use a tape measure to measure front to back of the straight edge. I also tried running string line around all 4 corners . I notices that the drivers side front wheel seems to stick out more then passenger side- is the rack adjustable? Maybe some pictures of your measuring devices? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 I used a big board since I have a bit of bulge in my tires and I couldn't put a straight edge to my rim. The tie rod is adjustable, it is threaded. One side is LH thread so mindful of the thread. Personally what I did was find the center of your steering rack (full lock to lock) and then park the steering wheel in between the two points, or better yet rotate/clock your steering wheel to match. Put the big board on the outside of your wheel (if you are not flush, you may have to use a shaped board as you will hit your fender, like an upside down U) and then mark the outer edge (front and back). Then do the same to the wheel on the other side. Draw a line down the center of the car from the cross member and then measure the distance perpendicular to the line to the front and outer edge of each wheel. If they are different adjust the tie rod to pull the wheel in or push the wheel out (much easier to do in the air). Lower the car again and see if it is closer. It took 4 tries to get it about to where I thought it was pretty close. I took it to the alignment shop the next week (firestone, lifetime alignment) and they didn't even bother to adjust it, said it was in the correct range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 (edited) I use a laser straight edge on each front wheel, to put marks on a perpendicular wall in front of the vehicle. Simple geometry from there to calculate your toe-in/toe-out. A simple laser pointer could also be used. Good luck with whatever method you choose. Edited January 14, 2014 by jhm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 I used a big board since I have a bit of bulge in my tires and I couldn't put a straight edge to my rim. The tie rod is adjustable, it is threaded. One side is LH thread so mindful of the thread. Personally what I did was find the center of your steering rack (full lock to lock) and then park the steering wheel in between the two points, or better yet rotate/clock your steering wheel to match. Put the big board on the outside of your wheel (if you are not flush, you may have to use a shaped board as you will hit your fender, like an upside down U) and then mark the outer edge (front and back). Then do the same to the wheel on the other side. Draw a line down the center of the car from the cross member and then measure the distance perpendicular to the line to the front and outer edge of each wheel. If they are different adjust the tie rod to pull the wheel in or push the wheel out (much easier to do in the air). Lower the car again and see if it is closer. It took 4 tries to get it about to where I thought it was pretty close. I took it to the alignment shop the next week (firestone, lifetime alignment) and they didn't even bother to adjust it, said it was in the correct range. Doesn't the car need to be on the ground or at least the weight of the car on the tires?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Just "eyeball" it using a couple of 2X4s and go straight to the alignment shop. Or, if you are worried about tire wear, just leave on front wheel off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 A piece of string and a tread groove? Works well if you're shooting for zero. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Doesn't the car need to be on the ground or at least the weight of the car on the tires?? Yes. Set the marks Eyeball changes Jack up car Make changes Lower car Check again Rinse and repeat until happy After the first couple of adjustments, you kind of get a feel for how many turns of the tie rod does what to the wheel. Just make sure, after you are done, that you haven't moved the center of the rack too far, and that you tighten the lock nuts. Oh and you may have to play around with the steering rack boot when you rotate the tie rod. It will want to spin with the tie rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I've done the string alignment on other cars. If done properly it should be just as accurate as what a shop can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIM73240Z Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 i tried the string around the car method. hated it. I went to a straight edge on the outside edge of the tires like a pieces of plate or something and measure a bunch. I also found the center of the cross member so that I can double check my measurements. got it to what john c has posted for the aggressive settings. jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I just count the exposed threads on the old tie rod before I take it off. I then set the new one to the same number and then take the car straight to an alignment shop to ensure it is set perfectly. Tires cost too much to not get it done right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIM73240Z Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 (edited) here you go. I hope. this is what I have. still learning before I put in car. it is ms2 extra. at this point I will work on ms2 if I can get something to work. jim race car 2014_2014-01-11_16.35.40.zip Edited January 14, 2014 by JIM73240Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Here in Alabama, there is a company installing storm shelters inside existing garages. They cut out a portion of your concrete slab and backhoe out a cave that is about 3' wide and 8' long. Then they lower a steel box into it and dress it out with a small raised lip so that it won't fill with water. It has a really nice sliding top so that you can drive over it (although I think it would be wise to try to straddle it) with your car. If you have time with a storm coming, you open your garage door, back your car out and get your family down in the shelter. There is a come-along down inside in case your house falls down on top of you and the door won't open after the storm. Anyway, it costs about $7000 and works as a great alignment pit. Tip: tell your wife you are really worried about her and the kids dying in a tornado and get yourself an alignment pit. My neighbor just got one of these installed and he let me borrow it tonight. After replacing my steering rack, I bought a set of Longacre "toe plates" that came with two tape measures, and combined with the tornado "pit," setting my front toe-in was a 1/2-hour job. Now saving for my own alignment (tornado) pit so I can use it at 3am if I want to. Unlike the local alignment shop (I've tried and fired three different shops), I even got my steering wheel straight. On the way over to his house, you could feel the tension in the front end from the toe being off, but on the way home it was smooth as silk and straight as an arrow with hands off the wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 I went with the old racers method- according to my sprint car buddy. Clamped some bed iron pieces to the outside of my wheel - low and long enough to beable to rich with a tape measure. Car drives very straight down the road with just 1/8" toe in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Post pics! I want to learn an easy method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 sorry-didn't take any. Picture two pieces of 30" bed frame iron. Strap one each iron/steel bar on to the outside of each wheel/tire as high on the assembly as possible while still being able to reach a tape measure under the car from one wheel to the other. I think on mine it was probably 6-8" of the ground-maybe more, but it was below centerline of the wheel. Now measure difference from front to back of the wheel using the bed iron and adjust as needed. I did have my car on wheel dollies so weight of car was on the tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 So how do you "strap" them? Duct tape? Big c-clamp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 Welding vise clamps, but some short bungees would be perfect twined through the wheel spokes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Figured I may as well post up string method for those unaware: http://www.negative-camber.org/jam149/technical/alignment.html Cliffs: - Research front and rear track widths of vehicle - Lay out string parallel to to both sides of the car on jackstands. Make sure front wheels are visually straight, set elevation of string at center of wheel. Space string out 100mm from front center cap. Account for any diference in track width at rear. Example; if rear track is 20mm wider, string should be 90mm from rear centercap. - Position steering wheel and secure it in place. Get creative or find a very patient volunteer to hold it. I've put a long 2x4 across both windowsills and securely zip tied it to the wheel with several heavy duty zip ties. Keep an eye on the wheel during alignment to avoid it shifting. Adjusts your front and rear toe as necessary. When done properly you must have equal measurements side to side at the front and rear lips of the wheel to the string. Again make sure the steering wheel doesn't slip. - Use an angle finder or the the triangulation technique shown for camber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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