NewZed Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 A welded diff is pretty obvious, from what I've read. The rear wheels chirp when turning, chattery chirpy turns at low speed. Handles weird, probably understeers. How did he weld the diff mount? That's going to be noisy. Check out the RTz-style mount from Technoversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Both wheels will hook or both wheels will spin if they both have equal traction. Stepping out doesn't mean anything unless you are doing it in women's' clothes, but we won't hate you for that if it makes you smile on the inside. Your happiness is all we care about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 ROFL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I guess the bottom line is to determine what your desires and budget can put in the car and then work toward that while driving the car and, hopefully, not detonating the R180 u-joints until you can do the upgrade you want. I'd certainly recommend the diff/half shaft upgrade before doing any upgrades on the wheels/tires. I use my 225/50-16's as the "fuse" for my R200 u-joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 (edited) I had to get my daughter to translate that. I was afraid I had hurt your feelings and you were cussing me out or something. I'm in Chatanooga watching my other daughter's marching band compete in the rain. I drove by two good fabrication shops along the 3 hour drive and I've had solid axle dreams running thru my head to help me stay awake behind the wheel. No matter what you do, your drivetrain will be fine until it isn't. I'm not kidding. Yo may get away with the R180 for a couple years or you may break it next week. No way to be sure. Enjoy your car and cross that bridge when you have to. I have broken a stub axle (the one that goes in the diff) on launch at the strip on a 4500rpm clutch dump onto heated slicks on the stickiest track in my area. So that broke at a standstill and caused no collateral damage. I broke the other (my fault for building this axle too short) when a CV came apart on a 1-2 shift, so again I wasn't going very fast and the boot kept the axle from flopping around, so again, no collateral. That's just two failures in 3 years of hard use. Oh, yeah, I had a CV overheat on a track day (these parts are 40 years old), melt the edge of the CV boot and sling the clamp off. I heard the clamp clicking and pit-ed. The only collateral on that one was a lot of grease on the floor pans to clean up. So, so far it hasn't been a big crisis. I'm worried that I could break someday on a 4-5 shift at 150mph. That's gonna make a real mess and might send me into the guardrail or off the track. That's the axle failure I'm praying against. Edited November 8, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 Honestly I was at some point thinking of doing a R230 with CV's so I guess I really need to log everything I need to buy and get that as my next major buy. Saved up enough for a tune and adding a resonator to my exhaust. Hopefully that'll calm her down. Will also be getting new weatherstripping and new from windshield.. old one is pitted beyond crazy and has a pretty big crack in the driver side. Also took some pictures of her fuel cell and the crap spray paint. http://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 If you haven't already, look at the Techno Toy Tuning R230 conversion components. My son, DarthZ, has the 240Z that Grenade300 built with an R230 and cryogenically hardened half shafts with CV's. Supposedly good for 700 HP. That would be my preferred route at this point. The 8.8 conversion is good too but it isn't as refined a solution or have enough installed yet for me to risk it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 I saw that post about the 8.8 IRS frankenstein that was put together. Honestly, I like the idea of a R230 out of a Q45 or the 300ZXTT. Tho I think people have discovered that it's not really a R230? that it's a shortnose R200? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 The 300ZXTT is a 3.69:1 R230. I believe the Nissan Armada used it also but wit something like a 3.36:1 ratio. Not positive, you'll need to check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 From my research, the Q45 is a R200, not a R230. But the R200 may be fine for you and your power goals. The R230 is a pretty big and heavy unit, supposedly good to 650 HP, but if you are thinking of 400hp or some odd, the R200 may be plenty for you. I would likely have been fine with the R200 myself, but just went big cause I figured it was roughly the same cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 (edited) I think the q45 is an r200 that uses the r230 output shafts. It may use the r230 input shaft too. The TTT mustache bar for the early q45 r200 is the same one for the r230. My friends TTT mustache bar for an r200 from a 300z/240sx is slightly different from mine, with a different part number on it. Edited November 9, 2015 by socorob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock Car Mafia Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Cable what are you plans for power down the road? Depending on that, I'd pick my setup based on that, since any upgrades aren't cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) At some point probably around 550 either cam/heads or super charger. I think I like the idea of raw power tho.. so probably good cam/heads. With that said, I think the R230 is my best solution. There was a guy on ebay selling a used one for 125 but unknown miles and missing the input/output shafts. Not sure I wanna buy a R230 with unknown condition. Rest of them look to go for around 350 online. Hell the most expensive part of a R230 swap isn't the actual diff... it's the damn companion flanges/stub axles!!! chromoly 39 spline version is 830 + 540 for the flange. Then I have to somehow still source the cv's which shouldn't be too hard finding 4x 300zx cv's Last night I got my 24in louvered glass pack arrive and cut out a straight section of my exhaust and added it in. Definitely removed a good chunk of the drone and loudness that was just too much. She's still has a mean growl but definitely not ear shattering. I have an appointment in the next hour to swap my front windshield and my rear hatch glass weatherstrip. Then time to make an appointment to get a dyno tune! Edited November 14, 2015 by CableSrv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 I think I paid $250 for my R230 w/ 80k miles. Complete with axles, hubs and brakes. That was from a guy parting out a car, but the junkyards wanted $400 for all of that. You might do better buying it all, basically the rear subframe. Even if you don't use the brakes, you can resell the calipers to the 240sx guys. If you go that route, be sure to grab the rear bake cables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 So it's offical! Next monday I have a scheduled appointment with SNL performance to get a dyno tune and hopefully clean up some of my issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Remember not to get too worked up about how much power you produce-all dynos report hp/tq with different calibration issues. The most important thing is to get the car running well. Timeslips don't lie-way better than a dyno number. If you are DBW throttle body, ask tuner to reduce the pedal input rate (that may not be what it is called). My GTO rate was 100% by default; we reduced it to 30% and the car is much easier to keep from spinning out coming out of corners. Another setting to improve is the IAF (idle air flow). Reducing that as low as possible (without losing the ability to idle) assists with weight transfer upon throttle lift. The default IAF setting is set to reduce emissions by slowing the return of the engine rpm to idle when you lift your foot off the throttle. The default setting hinders your ability to accurately control engine braking with your right foot. I want that throttle body to snap to the idle setting instantly as I come off the throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 Definitely not worried about numbers and my car is cable driven not DBW. I'm hoping the guy that is their tuner is aware of all the tricks needed to enhance the engine. But will bring up the IAF thing and see what he thinks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted December 25, 2015 Author Share Posted December 25, 2015 So just ordered a Subaru STI R180 with torsen and ordered DSS's CV kit + subie R180 stub and a Ron Tyler mount. This should tie me over for a very long time. Next is rims/flairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 26, 2015 Share Posted December 26, 2015 Sounds great! Be sure to chase the threads of the aluminum adapters with a tap and use antiseize on the bolts that thread into the aluminum. Use red locktite on the stock nuts that secure the adapters to your stock stubs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted December 26, 2015 Author Share Posted December 26, 2015 Oh good point! Thanks RebekahsZ! Thankfully I just picked up some red locktite. I do have to grab some anti-seize tho. However it's going to be awhile before I get it all. DSS stated 3-4 weeks build time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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