LinearEdge Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Hey Boosted. I am not sure if you are getting your PM notifications. I replied to you again. Send me a good email or phone number and I will reply there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted300 Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 pm'd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Not to detract in the least from Boosted300's achievement, but would it have been easier, for drag-racing purposes, to fit 15x9 wheels with 275 drag radials? Or would these, being of lower diameter, actually exacerbate the interference-problem at the coil spring perch (depending on offset, of course)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Largest drag radial Ive seen under stock fenders is a 235/60/15 on either 15x6 or 15x7. I think you might be on crack to get a 275 DR under stock sheetmetal. That's a 28" diameter, 12" wide tire at the sidewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 One issue with totally maxing out your wheel and tire fitment is: facing the unexpected. I only run 245/45/16 on the front of my Z. I haven't had the heart to cut my pretty sheetmetal for flares. The fender clearance is tight but it has been fine for years. Well, I ran off the track in a series of random gyrations last track day. I didn't notice it until I got home-I tweaked both front fender arches! Gonna try my wife's rolling pin to fix the tweak and maybe roll the lip. But even with 245/16s Im one step closer to flaring the fronts. When you push limits of fitment, sometimes you find the limit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted300 Posted August 23, 2015 Author Share Posted August 23, 2015 Ugghh. Rolling pin eh? Please let me know how that works out! Good info though...I have 235's in the front and they do rub the frame rails if I lock out...so I just try not to! If you're still reluctant to flare the fronts, perhaps you can try trimming the inside of the lip rather than rolling. Rolling can be tricky and have varied results. I've seen a lot of fender roll attempts end up in cracked paint. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtaylor Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Did you ever measure the back spacing on the rims after you got them back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gacksen Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 So madkaw/RebekahZ: regarding the cost of widening...ironically enough, with these wheels, it was more than the wheel itself. It was $215/each. Blu: RebekahZ reminded me of something important to note before you make any decisions. When I originally got the 17x8.5 +4, it was based on research I had done on here and in speaking to members on this board who had Rotas that I felt had perfect fitment on non-flared S30's. When I got the Rotas, for some reason they actually sat too far outside the wheel well. I came to the conclusion that it was due to the fact that all of the members on here that I had asked for their wheel size, likely had stock suspension whereas I have AZC LCAs and coil overs. In any case, since the wheels had already been purchased, I had to go through a rather arduous process of getting them to fit underneath the wheel well...kind of a backward way of doing things unfortunately. Because AZC LCAs are adjustable, I moved them inward as much as possible but it still wasn't enough, and I was limited by the length of the halfshafts which wouldn't allow me to move the arms any further inwards. I ended up getting some custom shortened half shafts from Driveshaft shop, which allowed me to move the arms in farther as you can see here: 240Z LCA.jpg For those unfamiliar, the AZC LCA comes default at parallel to the ground, here you can see I rotated the arm's tube downward, which pulled the whole arm inward. Then I had to drill through it and insert a retaining bolt to prevent it from rotating back outward (which happened several times to disasterous effect throughout this whole process!). I did a mini write up in the Drivetrain forum, I'll look for the link. The whole process was such an ordeal, I guess I tried to block it from my mind! But nonetheless, it is important for anyone to know if they decide to try this. Have the same ACZ LCA ..... only thing that worries me is that the tube on each side is only secured via clamping force. have thought about getting a hole drilled on each to secure them with bolts once found the right setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbozick Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Love this post. I have a 75 280 with a LS2. I'm on here doing my homework to find me some rims and tire that will do the car justice, and hook!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 Sweet baby jesus this is the things I've been losing sleep over at night and I'm so glad I came across this! I'm going to be running 800hp in my car and NEED this size tire! I refuse to cut my factory wheel wells. I will take this exact same route except probably different wheels. Woohoo!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted300 Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 On 12/13/2017 at 7:37 AM, jacob80 said: Sweet baby jesus this is the things I've been losing sleep over at night and I'm so glad I came across this! I'm going to be running 800hp in my car and NEED this size tire! I refuse to cut my factory wheel wells. I will take this exact same route except probably different wheels. Woohoo!! 800hp? Man this setup won't be able to handle that much power! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Nice work, thats great, I am only aiming for 245's on 16's so that will be easy compared to this. On 18/05/2015 at 7:43 AM, boosted300 said: Now I had a custom set of 17 x 9.5 + 29 (?) I may be very wrong here but I make them more like +16.5? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted300 Posted March 29, 2018 Author Share Posted March 29, 2018 On 3/25/2018 at 4:06 PM, EF Ian said: Nice work, thats great, I am only aiming for 245's on 16's so that will be easy compared to this. I may be very wrong here but I make them more like +16.5? Oh man, now you're making me do math!! I have to think about this one... I mean, my fronts are +4 with a 235 tire and they fit nearly perfect... So wouldn't 10 mm more of tire need about 10mm more of wheel? So then it would be around +14...? Im not sure if my logic is sound on that or not...I'm sure there are some tire/wheel gurus on here that would know better... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethoncho Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 (edited) On 5/18/2015 at 1:43 AM, boosted300 said: Using some old 3mm spacers, I played with combinations and determined that, for some reason, I would need 6mm on the passenger side, and 10mm on the driver side. And, as a result, I would also need longer wheel studs. Man that wheel/tire combo looks awesome! The car looks fantastic, actually much better than fantastic! If I understand what the final setup that worked for you it is: 1. You started with a 17x8.5 +4 offset wheel then added a 1” ring into it on the backside resulting in a new offset of 4 plus 1/2 the 1” or +16.5 2. Then added a 6mm spacer on the right and a 10mm on the left resulting in a net offset of +10.5 and +6.5 respectively Would it be safe to say if you had 3-4mm more space on the inner right side you could use a 17x9.5 wheel with a +6mm offset and no spacers? I am also trying to stuff as much rubber as possible under the rear without flares. I’ll be running T3 rear control arms and BC coilovers so I hope these might create a couple more mm of space. Any insight you could offer would be greatly appreciated. Edited December 1, 2018 by Jethoncho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosted_JDM Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 Looking to join the 275 rear party next year under stock fenders. Ordered full T3 Evo suspension for the front and rear along with control arms, etc. Based what what the OP did a 17x9.5 +25 should be really close... may try to fit 16's. but based on the OP pics, might not be possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scca Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 These measurements dont seem to work for my car. At least not at the ride height i want it to be at. I have 5 lug and have to take into account the hub changes in track width for BS on wheels- ( i did the 5 lug conversion about 15 years ago - maybe longer- back then there was no billet 5 lug hub to choose from) But the rear has no such issues. My car currently is 18 x 8 G35 wheels- 5.75 BS , all 2005 factory G35 size tires still 225 fronts and 245 rears- the online wheel calculator says a +30mm is 5.68" BS. I was running a .5" spacer to bring the rear wheels out to where i liked the look better- The fronts had a .650 spacer , and i never realized till this measurement round that the reason was the actual hub of the G35 wheels doesnt clear the 350z hub and sit flat , so the spacer is only for that- I have about 1" clearance from wheel to strut tube so plenty of room to go inside. I havent worked on the Z for a while and decided last month I want to go down to 17" wheels and get wider, and try to get the track the same F + R. WIthout the rear spacer the tires clears the coilover sleeve by 3/16" ? So for my car 5.75 BS is perfect - the 17 x 9.5 with 6mm is a 6" BS and would require a spacer? I have been using spacers for 20+ years and have no issues with them, but if I am going to custom order wheels i want to do it without spacers. I would love to put 275s on the back of this but I dont see it fitting my car. I will go back into shop today and try a 1" spacer on the rear to see how it sits out. I dont want the rim past the lip of the body as i want this car as low as it was before. I have my G35 wheels here plus a set of Mustang Bullitts 17 x 8 with 245 45 17s. The bullitts are currently mounted but so many different issues- they dont clear the 350z calipers without a spacer either, but they clear the hub- go figure. With a .5" spacer they look fine on the car. Little taller tire than i want though as they leave VERY little gap to the front valance upon turn in. So i would be trying a Nitto NT01 in 235.40.17 thats about 1" shorter or the Toyo 888r in a 245 40 is about .5" shorter. With the bullitts up front and the caliper off i can mount the wheel and it clears the inner strut tube by a good 1/4" so i can go to a 17 x 8.5 wheel with 5.75 BS with either the 235 or the 245 front tire with clearance- I have to build a new front brake kit now just to gain that .5" of extra rim width. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted300 Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 On 11/1/2018 at 3:35 PM, Jethoncho said: If I understand what the final setup that worked for you it is: 1. You started with a 17x8.5 +4 offset wheel then added a 1” ring into it on the backside resulting in a new offset of 4 plus 1/2 the 1” or +16.5 2. Then added a 6mm spacer on the right and a 10mm on the left resulting in a net offset of +10.5 and +6.5 respectively Would it be safe to say if you had 3-4mm more space on the inner right side you could use a 17x9.5 wheel with a +6mm offset and no spacers? Sorry for the tardy response! So I'm still not positive on this but in thinking more about it... The original wheel was 8.5 +4... since I added 1 inch (25 mm) to the inside only, wouldn't it be the full 25 instead of 1/2 of the 25? or +29? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted300 Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 (edited) Ok, as near as I can tell my original calculation of +29 was correct... Here are two diagrams from online offset-calculators that depict the modification that I made. The +29 offset shows entire inch that was added goes to the inside towards the car. The yellow line depicts the new/modified wheel of +29. As you can see the outer profile relative to the fender remains unchanged. In this pic it is the green line. Hope this helps! Edited December 27, 2018 by boosted300 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethoncho Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 32 minutes ago, boosted300 said: Sorry for the tardy response! So I'm still not positive on this but in thinking more about it... The original wheel was 8.5 +4... since I added 1 inch (25 mm) to the inside only, wouldn't it be the full 25 instead of 1/2 of the 25? or +29? Hello, I get what you are saying but you have to remember that offset is based on the distance from the wheel centerline. On the 8.5 inch width wheel you had a +4 offset or 4mm closer to the outer lip of the wheel based on the center of the wheel being an equal 4.25” from front or rear lip. Then you added 1 inch (or 25.4mm to get with the same measuring system used in the offset). Remember while you added this to the back side of the wheel it also moved the wheel’s center line by only .5” or 12.7mm. So if you measure from the new wheel centerline and add the old offset you are sitting at +16.7mm offset on the widened wheel. I did a rudimentary drawing to illustrate my opinion. You can use the new changed centerline measurement (121mm) minus the unchanged distance from from the outer lip (104mm) to arrive at the new offset of +17 (rounded off from +16.7). I hope it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted300 Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 (edited) 31 minutes ago, Jethoncho said: Hello, I get what you are saying but you have to remember that offset is based on the distance from the wheel centerline. On the 8.5 inch width wheel you had a +4 offset or 4mm closer to the outer lip of the wheel based on the center of the wheel being an equal 4.25” from front or rear lip. Then you added 1 inch (or 25.4mm to get with the same measuring system used in the offset). Remember while you added this to the back side of the wheel it also moved the wheel’s center line by only .5” or 12.7mm. So if you measure from the new wheel centerline and add the old offset you are sitting at +16.7mm offset on the widened wheel. I did a rudimentary drawing to illustrate my opinion. You can use the new changed centerline measurement (121mm) minus the unchanged distance from from the outer lip (104mm) to arrive at the new offset of +17 (rounded off from +16.7). I hope it helps. Lol, I wish I could do a "rudimentary" drawing like that! Yes I believe that you and, originally EF Ian, are correct...I completely forgot about the fact that centerline moved and failed to account for that. Thanks for Illustrating it for me. Now, (let's see if I get this part right!) adding the 10mm spacer then actually nets a +7? Edited December 27, 2018 by boosted300 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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