shops that do turnkey ls 240z swap?

[alphalonewolfxiong]

Hi. im new in here. I just adquired my 1971 240z. I had always been a fan of the Z. and had been wanting one to put in an ls3 motor in. awhile back while I did research, I found a company/shop that does turnkey ls 240z swap for around $12,000. I think the shop is located in FL, I think. but now I couldnt find that site anymore. Anyone know a place that do turnkey ls 240z swap please let me know. I dont have the time to do the swap myself but had been save up for the turnkey swap. I couldnt find that site anymore. anyone knows please let me know. thanks.

[74_5.0L_Z]

I think Hoke Performance does this.

 

He's in Asheville NC. 

[trackzpeed]

Zfever in Florida last I checked. Just do it yourself......

[trboflyr]

I just sent you a message.

[crapforum]

Hi. im new in here. I just adquired my 1971 240z. I had always been a fan of the Z. and had been wanting one to put in an ls3 motor in. awhile back while I did research, I found a company/shop that does turnkey ls 240z swap for around $12,000. I think the shop is located in FL, I think. but now I couldnt find that site anymore. Anyone know a place that do turnkey ls 240z swap please let me know. I dont have the time to do the swap myself but had been save up for the turnkey swap. I couldnt find that site anymore. anyone knows please let me know. thanks.

Is that 12k for parts and labor? Or just labor? Id expect you to spend at least 12k in parts for an LS3 swap.

[RebekahsZ]

A lot is going to depend on your expectations. I did my swap in my Z over a 2 year period and I did it to my standards. I paid a guy 13k total (parts and labor) to do the swap into my truck because I thought it would be faster, and I am intimidated by airconditioning, guages, and cruise control. He did it to his standards. Specifically, it took 6 months, I had to take it back 3 times for bearings because his standard for a rebuild didn't include have the block checked by a machinist to be sure it wasn't warped. His standards included kinked air conditioner lines, old coils and old plug wires rubbing on the steering shaft, headers that rub the suspension, $900 headers that don't fit when you can have custom headers built for that price, a tune that is set for best numbers at WOT when it is a street truck so now it runs rich, stinks and gets bad mileage, no oil in the transmission, re-used valve cover gaskets that leak, a 13 year old engine harness that throws knock sendor codes all the time, Airconditioning that holds a charge for 2 days then goes inop, etc, etc. At least the cruise control works. If you do it yourself, you will get what you pay for. If you pay somebody, you will get less than you pay for. I guess that is what it takes for mechanics to make money and maybe I should feel bad for them. Be as specific as you can with your expectations when you get your estimate. Then, expect the mechanic to never look at your list again. Have 2X the money set aside as the estimate. BTW-my 4000 pound truck does 14.1 and 100mph in the quarter, spinning thru first and second gears on street tires. But I can't run both the headlights and the airconditioning at the same time, the clutch hydraulic line spits out of the slave about every 6 months, I sometimes have to hold it in second gear with my hand (thanks to the no oil in the tranny-not discovered until it started failing), and I have to clear some recurrent engine codes about every 3 days. Other than that the truck is fine, and I'm driving it daily. Oops-I forgot-it uses a lot of oil. On the flip side: I've had ZERO reliability issues from my Z.

Edited August 21, 2016 by RebekahsZ

[RebekahsZ]

And no, I won't tell you who did my truck because even after all that, I still like him and want to be able to list him among my friends. He fell off the pedestal I had him on, but I still think he is worth knowing and that he has a lot to offer as a person and as a tuner. I will use him for tuning, but I won't bring him a big start-to-finish project again. I'm willing to consider the possibility that I might be hard to please.

Edited August 21, 2016 by RebekahsZ

[hornedcow]

If its 12K + parts bring it to me and I'll do it in my shop! Lol. Just finishing my LS Z, a little over 6 months in right now. Only working on it when I have no customer cars to work on and when I'm out from work. Upgraded Z32 brakes all around, complete T3 rear Q45 setup, new gauges, new Vintage Air setup, all carpet removed, sound deadened and new carpet installed. L33 + TKO600 trans. If it's 12K total with parts, I'd be wary of what you're getting. It adds up fast.

[JSM]

And no, I won't tell you who did my truck because even after all that, I still like him and want to be able to list him among my friends. He fell off the pedestal I had him on, but I still think he is worth knowing and that he has a lot to offer as a person and as a tuner. I will use him for tuning, but I won't bring him a big start-to-finish project again. I'm willing to consider the possibility that I might be hard to please.

Geese now you have me second guessing a oil pump and o-ring replacement in my 01 Silverado! I can do it, I just don't feel like it!

 

The mechanic I use I pay cash, bring him the parts and the price is fairly reasonable, but I feel what your saying. They are out to make a living and its churn and burn.

[RebekahsZ]

They ARE out to make a living, so I don't hate 'em. It kinda is what it is. He wasn't dishonest, he was....profitable. Which is what all businesses seek to be. When it comes to your engine: inspect it. Take it down to the long block and look at the valve train and the bottom end. Look for signs of abuse or an episode of oil pressure loss. Cut open and inspect the oil filter. The engines consume oil the I the PCV system so a lot of them get driven with low oil level. The donor engine for my truck was known to have bad bearings. He just never went to the effort to find out why. If he had just spent a little profit to have the engine spec'd out at a machine shop, instead of just slapping new bearings in it 3 times before he scratched his head a little, I'd be telling a very different story.

[alphalonewolfxiong]

Thanks guys. Zfever is what I'm looking for. They do the swap for ls1, I wonder if they offer ls3 too. I will keep you guys posted of my project.

[alphalonewolfxiong]

Ok. I'm locking on this swap. I'm doing the basic swap plus the option items, which totaling $17,809 for the ls1(this is from their site)If they offer ls3, I will go that route even if it costs more. I'm a honda guy and can do my own b-series swap, now at 37, I just want to maintain a nice finishing project and enjoy driving. My goal is to have the power when I need it. I'm not into any racing but occasionally participate at the local 1/4 raceway. Basically, the build is for my enjoyment. I'm not familiar with the z, but will get to know it.with this builds, I don't like the drum disk brake. What is a good rear setup to accommodate this power.thanks

[1969honda]

Look at the t3 and silvermine rear disk kits, honestly a lot of people claim the drums are very adequate for daily driving and cruising. At your power levels of an LS3 though discs make sense, double check rotor and caliper fitment with whatever size wheels you are going to run. The brake FAQ section has some good write-ups and information.

Edited August 27, 2016 by 1969honda

[rturbo 930]

Check out these. http://arizonazcar.com/brakes.html

[trackzpeed]

No offense alpha.... But the swap is just the beginning. Brakes suspension wheels tires differential chassis support...... The list just keep going. There is waaaaaayy more to this than the motor. I would encourage you to research the crud out of it and pad your wallet before you pull the trigger. Honestly, I'm just a decent shade tree mechanic and I did the swap by myself in my garage with hand tools and a borrowed hoist. Just my .02. Jim

[crapforum]

Ok. I'm locking on this swap. I'm doing the basic swap plus the option items, which totaling $17,809 for the ls1(this is from their site)If they offer ls3, I will go that route even if it costs more. I'm a honda guy and can do my own b-series swap, now at 37, I just want to maintain a nice finishing project and enjoy driving. My goal is to have the power when I need it. I'm not into any racing but occasionally participate at the local 1/4 raceway. Basically, the build is for my enjoyment. I'm not familiar with the z, but will get to know it.with this builds, I don't like the drum disk brake. What is a good rear setup to accommodate this power.thanks

You'd honestly be better off buying the ls3 crate motor, t56 magnum, and a full swap kit like cxracing and pay someone the labor. You'll get much more power, and strength at about the same cost. Plus it would be brand new... Also those guys look like a piece of crap, they say the LS1 "produces 405hp stock!", which is a complete lie. If they bs on something that simple they are going to bs on a lot of other things. Stock LS3 components will outperform pretty much any aftermarket LS1 upgrade.

Edited August 28, 2016 by crapforum

[texis30O]

I have over 26k in parts into my swap..... but then again my standards might be different that yours..... that is inclusive of wheels, suspension, brakes, and drivetrain......

[RebekahsZ]

I stopped counting at about $15k back in the early 1990s.  If you enjoy it, it is worth it.

[alainburon]

I think Keith nailed it here, it all boils down to your expectations and the level of build you are after as well as what you are going to use the car for. There are shops out there that will do everything for you but will you be happy with their work when they are done is the question, not to mention what the bill will be. Most likely it will be twice as much as you were quoted if not more. That seems to be typical, it has happened to me several times already. Most shops are just going to charge you an hourly rate this way they are covered in case the car you bring has shorted wiring or who knows what else.

 

On the other hand they can have some idiot practicing on your car taking twice as long to get things done and you are paying for his training. I say do a lot of research before you commit taking it somewhere. I have so much tied up in my build that it's not even funny anymore and I have done a lot of the work myself except paint and body or fab work. I do enjoy it and I think it's worth it (as Keith says) after it's all said and done but can be frustrating at times.

 

Good luck with what you decide to do.

[Savage42]

If I had to pay someone $80-100/hr to do all the work I've done on my car, it would have cost me.......ONE MILLION DOLLARS!  ;^)   I stopped keeping track a long time ago in what I have into the car in just receipts with NO LABOR, since I've done everything from a bare shell to just completed car except for the alignment guy and the one who welded my exhaust together. 

 

As mentioned, there are "quick & easy" swaps (for less money) or those who pay attention to detail and make it look "factory" for real money.  With mounting and wiring kits, along with all the info on here, it's not a real difficult swap, just extremely time consuming.