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"Pallnet" is a vendor.  That's the suggestion.  there's really no "upgrade" you can make for the regulator, unless it's old and doesn't hold pressure.  The shiny aluminum adjustable regulators typically don't hold pressure.  You need one that holds pressure so that the liquid fuel can help keep things cool.

Some people run a cooler thermostat also to keep the engine and fuel system temperature down after it's shut off.

 

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@NewZed 

Sorry for the confusing words, I was busy earlier but also wanted to reply so you know I'm interested.

I was referring to the fact that Pallnet may have different choices. I'm new to the Z world and learning slowly but I'm trying lol. 

So if the regulator is holding pressure now, then technically I would be able to use it with the new fuel rail right? 

 

 

@Neverdone

Honestly, I can't tell you. This is me troubleshooting as best to my ability, I had a buddy (whom I acquired the car from) and he was the one informing me that the fuel was becoming to hot and I went from there. 

 

When I'm driving the car of the highway it seems as if the heat isn't really escaping when the engine is off and it just constantly stays hot. If I keep driving the car will start to bog out at higher rpms , and then eventually comes to a complete halt. I sit for say 10-15 minutes and it's cool enough to be driven.

Edited by Dom 280z
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1 hour ago, Dom 280z said:

When I'm driving the car of  the highway it seems as if the heat isn't really escaping when the engine is off and it just constantly stays hot. If I keep driving the car will start to bog out at higher rpms , and then eventually comes to a complete halt. I sit for say 10-15 minutes and it's cool enough to be driven.

neverdone asked a good question then.  "Heat soak" typically refers to the problem where the engine, after sitting hot for about 20 minutes, like on a short shopping trip, will start but run like crap for about a minute, before clearing up.  That's the problem I thought you were referring to.

A Pallnet rail is probably not going to help your problem.  Your description is still a little odd though, you're talking about the engine being off and driving the car at higher RPM in the same sentence, followed by the engine  coming to a complete halt, which wouldn't involve higher RPM.  Three things that can't happen at the same time.  Maybe break the problem down in to a short time sequence, from when it runs well to when it doesn't.  Is it a manual or an automatic?

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1977 280z, L28 5 speed.

Well basically heat soaked would be the definition, you broke it down perfectly. Sometimes it will have a hard time starting but it takes quite a long time before I'm able to move the heated fuel out and get fresh fuel to the engine. I just wanna make it more reliable and eliminate that factor. Sorry for any confusion.

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When I park the car i leave the fan on to help the engine cool down but it only gets hotter while I'm not in the vehicle. The car continues to overheat as I'm driving and it will start to bog out to where it interferes and I am not able to give the car gas. I will be parked on the side of the highway for 10-15 (sometimes more) until it cools down and then I'm able to start it and leave .

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1 hour ago, Dom 280z said:

 The car continues to overheat as I'm driving and it will start to bog out to where it interferes and I am not able to give the car gas. I will be parked on the side of the highway for 10-15 (sometimes more) until it cools down and then I'm able to start it and leave .

This sounds more like a basic overheating problem.  Temperature will increase slightly on the gauge while the car sits because there's no coolant moving past the gauge sender.  But as soon as the engine starts the needle should drop.  You either have a coolant flow blockage or a bad water pump or poor air flow.

Heat soak is mostly just a "20 minute sitting" problem.  If you start the engine before 20 minutes you're usually fine, or after about 30.  But once you're up and moving the heat soak problem goes away.  You're not describing heat soak.

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Overheating is a very basic fundamental car thing.  You're in kind of a dangerous spot, with not understanding much about engine basics.  You can waste a lot of money.

And your problem could be more complex.  When these engines overheat the cylinder heads tend to warp, sometimes taking a permanent bend.  When they warp, the head gaskets fail.  Then a steady cycle of overheating happens, similar to what you're seeing.

The first thing to do if you see overheating is to check the coolant level in the radiator, and the overflow bottle.

Have you looked at the spark plugs?  They can offer a clue about bad head gaskets.  

Overall though, just make detailed observations, write down numbers if you can get them, then write well when you post.  Actual temperatures that you see on the gauge would be a start.  Actual RPM numbers.  Times, in minutes or hours.  Things like that.

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Don't be offended.  Just get some numbers and post them.   Aaaallll of the new to engines people do the exact same thing.  They don't realize how valuable numbers are.  Read through the Service Manual and you'll see that most of the operations/actions/fixes have numbers associated. 

For example - if the gauge reads 200 at max, you're probably okay.  If it went to 240, you're probably not.

No matter where you go you'll still be the same guy you are now anyway.  Might as well stick around.

Edited by NewZed
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You are right, you have to start somewhere.  You are about where I was 33 years ago when I started fiddling with cars.  Listen to NewZed, he is helping you...

Keep in mind that HybridZ is meant for people who already know how to diagnose and solve common overheating problems.  It's kinda expected that those that post here have already gone thru all the standard diagnosis steps and fixes but still need help because, for whatever reason those steps didn't fix the problem.  Patience runs thin for newbies who haven't done their homework, especially when they cop an attitude.

Google is your friend, search something like "how to diagnose engine overheating" and go from there...

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@rossman

Sorry for the apparent "attitude". As I said before I don't know the steps and therefore now I understand where y'all "Vets" stand and what I need to do. Also if patience runs so thin it's as easy as continuing to scroll instead of trying to help but in the end the patience isn't there. Appreciate your insight buddy. Thanks.

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5 hours ago, Dom 280z said:

@rossman

Sorry for the apparent "attitude". As I said before I don't know the steps and therefore now I understand where y'all "Vets" stand and what I need to do. Also if patience runs so thin it's as easy as continuing to scroll instead of trying to help but in the end the patience isn't there. Appreciate your insight buddy. Thanks.

Dom, you may only have a couple of guys actually posting to your thread but you have dozens of others watching and ready to jump in if it looks like we can help, at the moment you are getting good advice but we are all here to help. Glad you stuck around.

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9 hours ago, Dom 280z said:

@rossman

Sorry for the apparent "attitude". As I said before I don't know the steps and therefore now I understand where y'all "Vets" stand and what I need to do. Also if patience runs so thin it's as easy as continuing to scroll instead of trying to help but in the end the patience isn't there. Appreciate your insight buddy. Thanks.

I was actually trying to help you out and I advised you to listen to NewZed. Grannyknot is willing to help. Heck, I will help too, but you're going to have to make an effort and collect some data as requested. We are all just guessing based on the information you've given so far. 

Have you bothered to check the coolant level and spark plugs as NewZed asked? 

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  • 3 years later...

Hello everyone,  I may have the same problem going on now myself. I have a 1982 280zx with the non turbo 2.8 straight six.  The engine temp is staying around 180f to 165f, oil pressure is good and the car started off fine.  It cranked right up and drove for 2 and a half hours and started loosing power.  I have never been on a long trip with the car so this is the first time I have had this issue.  I pull off to the side of the road an it will sometimes shut off before I can turn it off to cool.  I sit for 30 min or so and it cranks right up and runs with no problems for maybe 40 min or so and then does the same thing again and I repeat the process.  Any ideas of the possible cause of this.  I was thinking a possible heat soak like condition while driving could be causing this.  I do not currently have a way to measure the temp in the engine bay as I am on my way to Manassas Virginia from charleston south carolina

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3 hours ago, Smokescree said:

Hello everyone,  I may have the same problem going on now myself. I have a 1982 280zx with the non turbo 2.8 straight six.  The engine temp is staying around 180f to 165f, oil pressure is good and the car started off fine.  It cranked right up and drove for 2 and a half hours and started loosing power.  I have never been on a long trip with the car so this is the first time I have had this issue.  I pull off to the side of the road an it will sometimes shut off before I can turn it off to cool.  I sit for 30 min or so and it cranks right up and runs with no problems for maybe 40 min or so and then does the same thing again and I repeat the process.  Any ideas of the possible cause of this.  I was thinking a possible heat soak like condition while driving could be causing this.  I do not currently have a way to measure the temp in the engine bay as I am on my way to Manassas Virginia from charleston south carolina

Welcome to the forum, you might get more eyeballs on your problem if you start your own thread dedicated to the problems you are having, some members may not click onto an old unfamiliar thread.

I'm not the best here to offer advice on your situation but I had something similar once and it turned out to be a clogged fuel filter near the tank and a lot of rust and debris from the bottom of the tank plugging up the pick up tube.  The car stalls from fuel starvation, the crap falls away from the pick up tube and the car starts again.

Good luck.

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