Home Built by Jeff Posted October 24, 2018 Author Share Posted October 24, 2018 Today's task was to paint the rest of the parts for the 680, but it didn't exactly go to plan.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted October 26, 2018 Author Share Posted October 26, 2018 Now most of the painting is done, I realised I didn't know what I needed to to next so it was time to formulate a plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 Today I started to replace the wiring in the car and getting it ready for the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 I finally finished painting all of the parts for my 240z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 The dash issue is a tough one. You could just use the good condition 260z dash, the car will be a driver and is not original anyway. But it just doesn't feel right does it? Every time you get in the car you will notice it. A good condition RHD 260z dash should fetch a pretty good price. Then again, finding a good condition RHD 240z dash may be very difficult. Really the question is, what feels right to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted November 13, 2018 Author Share Posted November 13, 2018 This episode I make and install a custom headliner in the Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted November 13, 2018 Share Posted November 13, 2018 (edited) Hey Jeff enjoyed the updates. Just noticed you played around with the booster . Be careful of the "reaction disk" its just a rubber oring seal round donut seal thingy inside the booster didnt get popped of place..... If its not in place properly It will drive you crazy and you have rear brakes lock up. Make sure thats in the right spot. Good luck Edit oh if you do the 260z/280z dash its doable there is a bit of difference but you may want to get the matching middle console... Edited November 13, 2018 by softopz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted November 13, 2018 Author Share Posted November 13, 2018 6 hours ago, softopz said: Hey Jeff enjoyed the updates. Just noticed you played around with the booster . Be careful of the "reaction disk" its just a rubber oring seal round donut seal thingy inside the booster didnt get popped of place..... If its not in place properly It will drive you crazy and you have rear brakes lock up. Make sure thats in the right spot. Good luck Edit oh if you do the 260z/280z dash its doable there is a bit of difference but you may want to get the matching middle console... Thanks for the tip. I will have a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted November 20, 2018 Author Share Posted November 20, 2018 The factory plastic trim pieces for my 240z are all cracked and broken, so this week I repaired them and covered them in alcantara. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 (edited) Love the idea looks great! Whats the name of the adhesive again I couldnt catch it .Tenser grip T65 ? This will probably help with those noise these panels always tick and rattle with minimal vibration! edit found it http://www.tensorglobal.com/home/ Edited November 21, 2018 by softopz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted November 21, 2018 Author Share Posted November 21, 2018 9 hours ago, softopz said: Love the idea looks great! Whats the name of the adhesive again I couldnt catch it .Tenser grip T65 ? This will probably help with those noise these panels always tick and rattle with minimal vibration! edit found it http://www.tensorglobal.com/home/ That is the one. Works a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted November 27, 2018 Author Share Posted November 27, 2018 This week my challenge was to make new door trims for the 680g and I decided to give diamond stitched inserts a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted November 29, 2018 Share Posted November 29, 2018 I need to do my door cards as well. I was thinking of doing the same thing as you did, but haven't done it yet. I love the color as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted November 29, 2018 Author Share Posted November 29, 2018 1 hour ago, winstonusmc said: I need to do my door cards as well. I was thinking of doing the same thing as you did, but haven't done it yet. I love the color as well. Go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted November 30, 2018 Author Share Posted November 30, 2018 In this episode I go through tidying up and finishing of more of the interior trim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share Posted December 4, 2018 This week I tackle the sound deadening but not everything went to plan... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted December 7, 2018 Author Share Posted December 7, 2018 Time to install the clutch and gear box, getting ready to reinstall the engine to the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 What slave cylinder are you using? The clutch fork you have is from a series one "monkey shifter" F4W71A 4-speed (1970 here in the US). That slave had an adjustable rod and a retaining spring. All the later transmissions used a solid fork (no holes) and a slave with a non-adjustable push rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted December 7, 2018 Author Share Posted December 7, 2018 2 hours ago, cgsheen said: What slave cylinder are you using? The clutch fork you have is from a series one "monkey shifter" F4W71A 4-speed (1970 here in the US). That slave had an adjustable rod and a retaining spring. All the later transmissions used a solid fork (no holes) and a slave with a non-adjustable push rod. I was actually looking at that, as the slave I have would push straight through the hole. I managed to pick up the correct fork yesterday, so unfortunately I have to take the gearbox back off and change the fork, but it should be a quick job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 Yeah, better to find that issue now before the combo is in the engine bay. Also: No issue with the longer transmission bolts. There's miles of room. Hardcore circuit racers have put the engine more than 3" further back without firewall modifications. Also: I usually keep engine leveler cranks pointing towards the front engine engine, since it can end up interfering with the firewall as you get the engine deep into the bay, but conversely if the angle ends up being really high, then the crank can end up conflicting with the hoist. Pick your poison. Another tip on that though that if the crank is facing forward your can use an electric drill to drive it and save some sweat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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