taaron Posted February 13, 2018 Author Share Posted February 13, 2018 (edited) Thanks for the response! I didn't even think about having to order a new distributor cap/rotor so thats on the way now. All that seems like something I can do, but I'm a little stuck on the last part Quote Important. Phasing the distributor will alter your #1 Tooth Angle. So follow the Sync distributor steps and Lock you timing to 10 BTDC under Trigger wheel settings. With a timing light, adjust your #1 Tooth Angle to get the Timing mark lined up to 10 BTDC. Change the Fixed Timing back to " Use Table " Burn the settings. Then Cycle the ignition Off...wait 10 seconds and then back on. Any changes to Trigger Wheel settings usually require a Burn AND an Ignition Cycle to take effect. Any more information on this step? I'm a little completely lost here. Also I may have missed an important step, how do I actually connect the new distributor to the rest of the system. Is it just a cable that I can't seem to find? And do I need a distributor mount like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-280ZX-E12-80-distributor-mount-plate-OEM-used-w-bolts/382365166699?hash=item5906bd6c6b:g:V-oAAOSw9NBab-wM&vxp=mtr Or can I reuse the original one. Edited February 13, 2018 by taaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supershanesta Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 The wiring is simple. Just hard to find a picture. This should help you if you reference diyautotune... You will be looking at the Dizzy Side for your wiring. So using the image... Red is 12v White is Trigger wire Black is Ground White and black are found in the tach shielded wires together in your harness. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/ Quote Distributor Wire Colors Colors of the wires on the distributor side of the 4 pin round connector, versus on the harness side. You can connect in from either side. Dizzy Side Harness Side Purpose Red B/W 12v+ White G/B MS Trigger (to Pin 24 on DB37, or Relay Board TACH terminal) Green G/Y not used Black Black Ground Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 (edited) ^ Ha Ha ha ... That's my Picture of my personal distributor. Please note the above colors in the picture of my Dizzy are set up for a Haltech. With the DIY L28 Trigger wheel they flip the orientation of the slots from how Nissan originally had it. That flips the functions of the LED's reading the Trigger disk as well. On an MS2 with DIY L28 custom Trigger Wheel, the colors would be. Dizzy side Red = +12v Black = Ground ( To sensor ground in MS ECU ) Green = Cam Trigger ( If you want to use Full sequential Fuel or COP Ignition ) White = Crank Trigger Edit: Also note that the above link ( https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/ ) is OLD information. That article was written long before DIY made their Custom L28 Trigger wheel. The above instructions were written by " MobyTheVan " I believe, and were a work around for L28 Optical dizzy's because the MS1 and MS2 could not decode the Nissan 360 slot wheel accurately. Note that the above instructions only give you a Basic Trigger system. You need the Cam Trigger to run COP or Full sequential. Unfortunately the MS sites are full of old outdated articles. You have to be very careful what you are reading. That's what happens when you have a platform that has multiple ways of being built and Software covering Multiple ECU's. Edited February 14, 2018 by Chickenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supershanesta Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 (edited) Quote 3 hours ago, Chickenman said: ^ Ha Ha ha ... That's my Picture of my personal distributor. Please note the above colors in the picture of my Dizzy are set up for a Haltech. With the DIY L28 Trigger wheel they flip the orientation of the slots from Normal. On an MS2 with DIY L28 custom Trigger Wheel, the colors would be. Dizzy side Red = +12v Black = Ground ( To sensor ground in MS ECU ) Green = Cam Trigger ( If you want to use Full sequential Fuel or COP Ignition ) White = Crank Trigger Edit: Also note that the above link ( https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/ ) is OLD information. That article was written long before DIY made their Custom L28 Trigger wheel. The above instructions were written by " MobyTheVan " I believe, and were a work around for L28 Optical dizzy's because the MS1 and MS2 could not decode the Nissan 360 slot wheel accurately. Note that the above instructions only give you a Basic Trigger system. You need the Cam Trigger to run COP or Full sequential. Unfortunately the MS sites are full of old outdated articles. You have to be very careful what you are reading. That's what happens when you have a platform that has multiple ways of being built and Software covering Multiple ECU's. I used the above for my z with the diy wheel and followed the instructions on Diy. This is how you and I tuned the car lol! Sorry if I am giving wrong info Edited February 14, 2018 by supershanesta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 (edited) Not your fault. The text info from DIY is correct. It's just that my picture was for the standard Nissan wiring.... and it's now in Google search!! Could be misleading... If you just want simple Batch fire and a single coil. It will work fine for that. It's just if some people want Waste Spark, COP Ignition or Sequential fueling then they need the other Cam signal. Most people don't know about DIY flipping slot orientation, which also means flipping the Green and White LED output wires on the dizzy side to match the MS ECU inputs. My picture shows the factory Nissan outputs and colors on the dizzy side, which is what Haltech uses. Edited February 19, 2018 by Chickenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share Posted February 19, 2018 So I bought this because I thought I needed it. But with it in place the oil pump shaft doesn't reach the dizzy. Am I mistaken and don't need it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 (edited) With the Turbo dizzy and shaft, you do not need either of those parts. The Turbo dizzy bolts directly to the timing cover. Make sure you have the gasket that goes between the dizzy and timing cover. Latest part number from Nissan is 22179-29N00. A new non -Nissan gasket came with my A1-Cardone distributor. Edited February 19, 2018 by Chickenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share Posted February 19, 2018 1 hour ago, Chickenman said: With the Turbo dizzy and shaft, you do not need either of those parts. The Turbo dizzy bolts directly to the timing cover. Make sure you have the gasket that goes between the dizzy and timing cover. Latest part number from Nissan is 22179-29N00. A new non -Nissan gasket came with my A1-Cardone distributor. Damnit. Well I do have the gasket at least haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron Posted February 20, 2018 Author Share Posted February 20, 2018 So I've got the distributor on! However the rotor looks like it accepts a bolt or something to hold it on and I can't find anything about this. Am I dumb and just missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 (edited) Well... I can't answer the second question. But yes the Rotor is held on with a small Metric screw. It's a Phillips head and I think it's an M5 if memory serves me correct. Edited March 10, 2018 by Chickenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmorrone1214 Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Hows the MSII installing going? I am about to do the same thing in mine. I have all the parts for a turbo build just need to buy the MSII unit and build and install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 15 hours ago, gmorrone1214 said: Hows the MSII installing going? I am about to do the same thing in mine. I have all the parts for a turbo build just need to buy the MSII unit and build and install. Look up Softopz on the Vendors forum. He builds MS2 units and a beautiful plug and play harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron Posted March 31, 2018 Author Share Posted March 31, 2018 So I know its been a little while, haven't had a ton of time to work on this project but finally getting back to it. Got the new turbo zx injectors in, all the clips made. I designed and 3d printed a bracket for the 240sx TPS (which I can make available online if anyones interested). I did run into a problem however. I bought the coolant sensor from DIY Autotune, https://www.diyautotune.com/product/gm-closed-element-clt-iat-sensor-with-pigtail/, and it doesnt fit in the thermostat at all. Can I use the original one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 Yes, you can use the original Nissan Clt sensor. Since there is no calibration setting for a Nissan CLT sensor in the Tune Studio selections, use the Saab. settings. It is very close to the factory Nissan. Or you can look up the 280ZX sensor values in the factory service manual ( available online at Xenon. com ). But the Saab values are close enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowpoke Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Nice TPS mounting plate! I was thinking of printing one. You mind Sharing the STL? Also, when your ready to tune get a hold of Chinkenman. This gentleman knows his stuff and his support and patience are bar none! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Chinkenman??? LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuD 91gt Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Haha, that’s gonna Stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Is that PLA? I'd be concerned about it melting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowpoke Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 @Chickenman, oops....lol I heard annealing PLA gives it quite a bit of strength and heat resistance, supposedly better than ABS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 I'll definitely share a link to the file once I'm on my other computer tomorrow. Yes its PLA. No its not annealed. Its just in there to hold the sensor right now, the car isn't ready to run enough to heat up let alone run on the street. That being said, SUPER productive weekend. Got all the wiring in. Getting a usb to serial cable from a coworker tomorrow and should be plugging in tomorrow afternoon (still have to buy the software)! Any words of advice Chickenman? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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