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Triple Blowthrough Turbo


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On 9/29/2021 at 5:23 PM, Dat73z said:

Thabks @Datz44. I am running square setup 15x8 +0 225 50 R888. I'm considering 235 or 245 on 15 if I can find a wheel that will fit over my brakes


I was thinking that to, size 235 on 15*9. Thank for the feedback! I like the colour choice. It was my initial choice then decided to stick with blue as the original colour. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Realized I haven't updated in a while but this build has been going on in the background. Did a bunch of welding this past few months and other mini projects to get things prepped. Started mounting up the intercooler, catch can, oil temp sensor, plumbing oil/coolant, and misc. accessories. For anyone doing this type of build the turbo gets really close to the shock tower. I think the charge piping I had mocked up before pulling the last motor had the turbo outlet lightly rubbing against it with the way I wanted things clocked. I welded a cast 90 which gives me another 1/2-1" of clearance. 


Not really a turbo thing but I found the BHJ damper isn't coated so I pulled that off to paint it with 2k clear. When I had a volvo washer machined down for the pulley, finger prints from myself and the machinist started to flash rust. Nothing a bit of steel wool didn't fix but it wouldn't surprise me if it fully rusted over a few weeks on the car even rubbing it down with WD40 or other oil. 




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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Realized I haven't updated this thread in a while. This has been my first ground-up turbo build and I've learned a lot along the way. 


Over the winter I replumbed and pressure tested the entire brake and fuel system. I also got the full driveline back in which consists of a Q45 vlsd rear end, aluminum driveshaft, and modified s13 transmission for the L-series bellhousing and OS Giken twin plate clutch. 


I rebuilt and restored everything I could along the way that wasn't replaced since I was already in there. Anything I've missed will have to wait until the next time I tear the car down for paint. I think this is the 3rd time I've had the car completely apart. 


Now that all of the major running gear is back in I've been working on hooking everything up which has mostly been plumbing. The last major fabrication will be modifying the charge piping to fit as I changed the configuration of everything over time and fully fabricating the exhaust from stainless. I received the stainless pipe earlier this week from Ticon/Stainless Bro's so that will be my spring project. 




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  • 4 weeks later...

So my wife has been asking about the box of pipes in front of her gym equipment and I took that as a signal to start turning those pipes into parts 😁


I started on the downpipe this morning. I'm hoping I can get through the exhaust in a week or two with an hour here or there.


I realized I should have probably started on something less critical like the muffler or midpipe as I'm really out of practice. My welds aren't perfect but the penetration is good and this isn't a showcar so we'll see if it holds. 





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Had an hour after lunch and got the downpipe tacked up. Happy with the run so far. I angled it such that the lowest point on the car is the (now sacrificial) oil pan. There is also a minimum of 1-2 finger gaps around anything which I'm hoping will be enough. I plan to inconel shield this as well like the manifold for thermal management. 


I think the midpipe will likely hang slightly below the rails so maybe that will bottom out first. Just need to find a solid hour or two to fully weld it out. 




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@Zetsaz Here are some pics. It's pretty difficult to get good shots now that everything's back in the car...but I think there may be more pics earlier in the thread when I was doing the turbo setup with the engine on the stand. 


I ran one line from the tstat housing to the turbo. The other line I welded on an AN fitting to the stock heater feed/return location which comes off the lower rad hose fitting from the pump. 


Perhaps others can comment if this is the correct or incorrect way to do it. Originally I was going to do tstat-turbo-block drain but ended doing the setup I have now after chatting with Dave Rebello. I think this is what @calZ is describing. 


Btw do you have pictures of your exhaust ground clearance and clearances to the chassis parts? I'm trying to strike that balance between clearance of the midpipe to the trans xmember and the ground. I have it tucked up about half a finger gap from the trans xmember now which gives me more ground clearance even with the 3" pipe than the MSA system I had before. The tradeoff of course is I'm worried about the midpipe smacking the trans xmember. I think we may be running the same trans and t3 trans mount. 







Edited by Dat73z
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Thanks @calZ. I just read through that thread and the final recommendation is what I have currently set up. Except I also kept the heater core in the loop. If I was going to redo my setup, perhaps I'd run -8 or larger lines for more bypass through the turbo. As-is they are -6...a project for another day. 

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Hmmm.... Looks like I'll have to redo my heater hoses to set them up like yours. Can you link to the thread? I don't have the T like you, I just set them up like my old NA engine, but I do still have the T from the turbo block's heater hoses. For the water lines, I saw PMC taking the cooler feed from the block plug in the back under the exhaust manifold, and returning to the thermostat. TonyD seems to have suggested using the turbo as a replacement to the original bypass line which I don't have right now.


Posting a photo from my phone of the clearance. Your clearance between the frame rails and trans crossmember should be a non-issue. My low spot is under the diff, but unless you hit something that's going between your tires or get a LOT of suspension travel over a bump, I just don't see how it would hit anything, For the most part that entire area is gets more clearance as the tires move over things. 

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@Zetsaz it was linked above by @calZ here it is again 



If you don't have the T and still want to run your heater you could use a Brass Y or something similar. Not sure how you have yours set up, I basically just did the OE setup but instead of the rear hose feeding the carb heater circuit I repurposed it for the turbo cooling. I could've done any combination of hoses and fittings with the same outcome but I wanted to retain some semblance of OE aesthetic there. 


Didn't get your exhaust pictures, want to text them to me? 😄

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Got most of the downpipe welded out last night but ran out of 308l filler rod. It was probably good to stop and let the part cool anyways as to keep movement to a minimum. 


So I decided to start in on the midpipe. I think for this section it'll run from the downpipe following the trans tunnel which angles to around the tail of the trans where it kicks back to straight. Around where the diff starts there's another kick back over to run under the diff. 


In measuring it all out I think I can get good clearance here as well but it's going to be tight...a true test of my mediocre fabrication skills. Hopefully I can get this section tacked by the weekend when I can grab some more filler. 




Edited by Dat73z
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One thig specific to the turbo packaging that I had to overcome was rerouting the speedo cable to clear the downpipe. Nowadays more people are probably opting for gps or other sensor methods but maybe someone can find this helpful. 


When I redid all of my brake and fuel lines in stainless I decided to move the clutch hardline off the firewall via a bracket as I preferred that run over the OE configuration. I had some aircraft adel clamps left over from other routing so I routed the cable following the OE hangers except in the portion above the downpipe where I brought it up and over. The result is more of a tucked look and hopefully no melting. 






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Still waiting for materials and some solid blocks of time. I had an hour last night so I mounted the boost gauge.


Originally I was going to use a channel in my Stack integrated tach to run it, but the channels are now being used by fuel pressure and oil temp. 


I wanted to keep the vacuum line off the engine because there are already like a dozen vacuum lines in that area for all of the other turbo items so I moved the signal source to the firewall between my vacuum log and the 1 way brake booster valve. 


I also had the challenge of nobody having the right fittings I needed so I silver soldered two fittings together to create the boost gauge feed. 


Finally I fabricated a bracket off the center console dash bracket to position the gauge in DS footwell area. It's easy to read at a glance and outside of the car you can't see it at all which was the intent 😈


Man nothing is ever easy on this car...but one small project at a time it's getting there



Edited by Dat73z
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