lovemstr Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 has anyone notched front frame rails to fit wider radiator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 People have completely cut out the entire front section of the car. If you're cutting a structural member, just remember to reinforce it somewhere else. Having a weak frame with stress concentration points in it isn't a good idea, but you can overcome these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovemstr Posted December 11, 2018 Author Share Posted December 11, 2018 ANYONE HAVE ANY PICS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovemstr Posted December 12, 2018 Author Share Posted December 12, 2018 sorry, allow me to elucidate further. I have bought an all aluminum radiator. it is 26 in. wide, which is too wide for comfort between the frame rails. I'm thinking I will notch the frame rails directly behind the rad. cradle and box in the notch with 1/8 in plate also reinforce the bottom and outside of the frame rail with 1/8 in. plate. does that sound feasible? any suggestions welcomed. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 Yes, completely feasible. And quite honestly, I think 1/8" would be overkill. IIRC, the entire shell is produced mostly with 16 and 18 gauge sheet (someone please chime in if I'm misstating). For pictures of the mods described by Neverdone, check out Jon Mortensen's build. Several people have built tube front ends, but Jon's car is the only one that comes to mind at the moment. Folks have done all kinds of front end and frame mods to relocate the radiator and accommodate larger radiators, intercoolers, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 Why not just buy a radiator that will fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovemstr Posted December 12, 2018 Author Share Posted December 12, 2018 I got this one cheap, it is like brand new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 I wish I had taken better pics, 1st one is before I welded in the cylindrical wall to close up the notch, 2nd pic the notch is in the lower left corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovemstr Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 grannyknot thanks for the pics, what year z is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 The Z is a 72, the engine and rad were from an 87 M6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovemstr Posted February 21, 2019 Author Share Posted February 21, 2019 instead of notching the frame rails, (which I am reticent to do, for some reason) I'm now thinking of slanting the bottom of the radiator toward the engine, therefore the top would lean toward the grill. the bottom would rest atop the frame rails(with appropriate brackets, same for top of rad to cradle. a box/tunnel would be constructed from radiator cradle to front of rad. to funnel air through rad. an electric fan on back of rad. to finish. any thoughts, suggestions, opinions all would be welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 (edited) Yeah, that will work it's been done many times, just remember to get the rad attached in such away that it is not been used as a stressed member of the frame. Normally the rad is attached to the front plate and so just hangs, if it is firmly fixed on the both front rails that may introduce some twist and rads won't take a lot of flexing without springing some leaks. Edited February 21, 2019 by grannyknot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovemstr Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 I have decided to notch the frame rails just behind the radiator cradle and fill in notch with 1/8 in plate, this should allow my rad. to drop down thru rails and clear underside of hood. I may be obsessed with keeping this car running cool. I have a used oil cooler from an RV that I may install as well. I have modified my hood to add 6 vents (3 on each side) to allow heat to exit. the vents are made from 2 3/8 in tubing I bought from Lowes (it was a post for chain link fence) you may have surmised by now that I like to do things as cheaply as possible, reuse/repurpose where I can. my engine is a mild 350 chevy, 2004r trans. car is a 76 280 that I paid $200 for, so sticking with cheap theme. so the beat goes on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 Why do you need pipe to add vents? Louvers work just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovemstr Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 I am retired (76 yrs) and working on a tight budget. I use things I can get cheaply and I have lots of time to fabricate/ modify whatever, therefor the pipes instead of $$$ vents, or maybe I am just really cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 I was saying that you don't have to even add material. Just cut slots in the metal and bend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovemstr Posted March 15, 2019 Author Share Posted March 15, 2019 I will attempt to send some pics of what I doing when I figure out how. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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