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TimZ Update Progress PICS!


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can i ask where did you get ur radiator hoses and the rest of the hoses?

very nice.

do you have any pics of your intercooler?

have any left over parts to sell too?

i wish my motor someday looks like that.....

 

mike

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To me it looks like a way to speed up the exhaust during low rpm by directing the exhaust through a smaller outlet in the manifold. If I'm right or wrong I still would like to know more!!Joe

 

It is called a Spoolie Jobbie! TimZ and I designed it, Tim paid for it, I built it and Tim had it heat coated. The bushings, stem and flapper are all made from Hastoloy X. In this neck of the woods I am considered a high-tech redneck! :lol:

My stuff is trick like Tim's, but Tim's stuff is trick and clean. He has the bling bling to match the 'city of lights' powdercoated valve cover. I feel like disco dancing everytime he opens his hood! :-D

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To me it looks like a way to speed up the exhaust during low rpm by directing the exhaust through a smaller outlet in the manifold. If I'm right or wrong I still would like to know more!!

 

Joe

 

That's a pretty good guess :).

 

The turbine housing is a twin scroll housing' date=' and the cable controls a butterfly valve on one of the scrolls:

[img']http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/timz/spoolyjobby1.jpg[/img]

spoolyjobby2.jpg

 

...James built the thing up for me.

I have this setup so that the TEC II's GPO output controls the opening of the throttle, so that (in theory at least) I can have a small AR at low rpm and then open the butterfly and double the AR at high rpm/boost.

 

I don't know just how well this will work yet, so I wasn't going to advertise it. Time will tell...

 

The radiator hoses are a combination of a Samco 1.375" elbow and a Baker Precision 1.5" elbow. The other hoses are an amalgam of mostly Earl's and Aeroquip - personally I prefer Earl's, but Aeroquip is easier to get locally and is still very acceptable.

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My stuff is trick like Tim's, but Tim's stuff is trick and clean. He has the bling bling to match the 'city of lights' powdercoated valve cover. I feel like disco dancing everytime he opens his hood! :-D

 

Don't hate me because I'm beautiful...

 

:P

 

Nothing wrong with looking clean as long as you can back it up, right? Truth be told, I did get the idea for the valve cover from a Honda valve cover that was being done at the powercoating shop at the same time I was having mine done. :oops:

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Thats looks sweet!!!

 

Keeps us updated on the swing valve. Will it only open in a higher gear when there is more exhasut engergy? Or is it dependent on a boost pressure setting?

 

Details' date=' Details.. Please :hail:[/quote']

 

Since it will be controlled by the GPO, I will have an 8x8 table (RPM vs. MAP) at my disposal. I am hoping to be able to close it at certain RPM/boost levels to bring the boost up quickly, but also keep it open at cruise (medium-high vacuum and medium rpm) for fuel economy.

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Tim/James,

 

I can see you made the "Spoolie Jobbie" to match the turbine housing but don't you think it would work better if it was rotated 90 degrees? This way the butterfly would shut down exhaust flow that would be directed towards the middle of the turbine and concentrate it at the tips of the turbine fins where it would do most good. I realize it would have to be made over and the butterfly would have to be moved so it didn't hit the turbine housing when open but doesn't this sound logical?

 

Joe

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I can see you made the "Spoolie Jobbie" to match the turbine housing but don't you think it would work better if it was rotated 90 degrees? This way the butterfly would shut down exhaust flow that would be directed towards the middle of the turbine and concentrate it at the tips of the turbine fins where it would do most good. I realize it would have to be made over and the butterfly would have to be moved so it didn't hit the turbine housing when open but doesn't this sound logical?

 

No - the turbine housing has two seperate scrolls internally, and you need to be able to shut one of them off completely for this to work. The two holes in the jobbie were ported to match the two inlets in the turbine housing exactly. Rotating the spoolie jobbie would result in nothing lining up with the turbine housing's two inlets. Aside from having some sort of 'sideways' turbine housing cast, this is pretty much what I'm stuck with.

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  • 2 years later...

Two years later - I guess it's time for an update... :o

 

Upgrading broken driveline bits has really put a damper on testing the spoolie jobbie.

 

I was having some problems getting the actuator to work reliably, so I did a couple of initial tests, just to get an idea of the potential of the setup - I went out and datalogged two WOT runs, the first with the spoolie throttle open, the second with it closed.

 

Initally, when I tested this with my old Isky L475 grind cam, the spoolie jobbie appeared to cause the turbo to spool about 700rpm sooner, which I was pretty encouraged by. To be honest though, I wasn't that unhappy with the way the turbo spooled without it, so my development time was first spent just getting everything running with the spoolie throttle open.

 

Then my trans broke.

Upgraded to a GForce T5. (took a long time).

Switched to a more radical cam from Elgin.

Then my r200 broke.

Upgraded to an r230 (took a long time).

 

So early this summer, I decided to revisit the spoolie jobbie, as things were starting to settle back out. Interestingly, when I performed the same quick test, closing the spoolie throttle now caused the turbo to spool later, and even limited the max boost that was being built. Seems the new cam really hated the increased backpressure (my turbine housing was a T4, o-trim, .84AR - closing the throttle dropped it to a .42AR).

 

Since then, I've kind of given up on it, and have just been running with it out of the loop. I still think the idea has merit, but it looks like it probably won't make up for lost bottom end from a radical cam. I think you'll either want to use a cam that is pretty robust to backpressure, and/or go to a really large AR turbine housing, so that you don't have so much backpressure when the spoolie throttle is closed.

 

As I see it the issues with these two approaches are that with the former (milder cam), you'll probably get a bit better boost response, but the cam will still pretty much limit the max power that you are going to make. With the latter (bigger AR), you won't improve the boost response that much, but you might be able to take advantage of the reduced backpressure with the throttle open.

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Holy crap that looks very nice, I like the job that was done on the plenum. Its beautiful !

 

I guess different companies call that color on the valve cover different things.. We call it Prismatic black. Thats the first time I've seen it on a valve cover though.. I got an extra one here... I ought to shoot one to see what it looks liek in person :) It looks great on it.

 

Did you fab the turbine cover ??

 

It the air conditioner still in that car ??

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  • 4 months later...

how do you keep exhaust from sneaking out of the throttle shaft on the spoolie jobbie? i was planning my manifold around the idea that if you keep the exhaust pulses seperate all the way down to the turbine housing, they would promote a faster spool (as per "maximum boost"). so i was going to run 1-2-3 into one side of the housing, and 4-5-6 into the other, with a balance tube for the wastegate. that way the exhaust pulses would hit alternating sides of the wheel right after each other. my garrett t4 has a 1.15 A/R

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how do you keep exhaust from sneaking out of the throttle shaft on the spoolie jobbie? i was planning my manifold around the idea that if you keep the exhaust pulses seperate all the way down to the turbine housing, they would promote a faster spool (as per "maximum boost"). so i was going to run 1-2-3 into one side of the housing, and 4-5-6 into the other, with a balance tube for the wastegate. that way the exhaust pulses would hit alternating sides of the wheel right after each other. my garrett t4 has a 1.15 A/R

 

As I recall, James put a step in the bushings to help limit the leakage, and the rest is just clearances. Leakage has never seemed to be much of a problem, really. I have it apart right now, and I'm not seeing any burn marks around the bushings or anything.

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