Supra 2JZ-GTE swap into 240Z (pics)

[Nismo280zEd]

I might be wrong here but I thought you had to use Argon to weld stainless? or some gas (I've only done steel so far, wanting to try AL and Tig)

 

btw i have a MIG

 

And that car is going to be killer when it's done Second thought... you could run the exhaust out the side of the car, Side pipes, not like we have to meet emissions. Just a thought i personally would like a pipe out the back as well, but just an idea.

-Ed

[Taffy]

Mike Ferrara made 700+ AWHP. ALL STOCK ENGINE. Never came apart. Still runs even.

 

 

Wheeeew!!! thats a hard one to swallow. the stock piston can handle 550-600 max. Above that breaking ring lands is almost certain. 700HP requires pistons and a headgasket minimum IMHO

 

That is the same thing that a lot of people told him beofre he dynoed. He has pretty much proved everyone wrong. Since he is making 800+ at the crank, that just proves that the stock pistons can take more than most think they can.

 

Kinda reminds me of the SR20DET. We have friends that are making 500+ to the wheels on stock bottom ends. I wonder if it will handle 600??

[Taffy]

I might be wrong here but I thought you had to use Argon to weld stainless? or some gas (I've only done steel so far' date=' wanting to try AL and Tig)

 

btw i have a MIG

 

And that car is going to be killer when it's done Second thought... you could run the exhaust out the side of the car, Side pipes, not like we have to meet emissions. Just a thought i personally would like a pipe out the back as well, but just an idea.

-Ed[/quote']

 

You do not need argon, but it makes the weld a lot cleaner.

[Nismo280zEd]

Oh, so creates less slag by having a pocket or argon around it instead of air i guess?

-Ed

[Hybrid240z]

From what I know about MIG welding you don't need inert gas when you use flux cored wire but inert gas is required when solid wire (w/no flux) is used.

 

Inert gas is always needed when you TIG weld.

 

The most commonly used inert gas is Argon or a mix of Argon with other gases.

 

Marcos

[Guest farenheight101]

Does anyone think a 2jz or a 7m would fit into a 68 datsun 510? My brother is interested in this 6 cylinder swap but we don't know if it would be worth it. Were also thinkin of a 280zx (don't know the engine code) 5psd swap. He wants something straight-6 cylinder and turbo.

 

I figgure a supra engine would be too much for a little 510, and the parts are probably alot more to replace than a 280 zx engine's.

 

Cheers,

Colin Seeliger

[stony]

anything will fit in anything with enough cuttin and weldin. both of which you would need alot of if you want a 2jz or 7m in a 510

[cyrus]

OK time for an update.

I email Marcos the engine with all plumbing. as you can see this will not fit. I have just bought 2.5 and 3.0 inch aluminum tubing for a custom installation. I purchased the steel to fab my mounts. I should have pictures of the mount soon.

[Hybrid240z]

Here is the pic of the mocked up 2JZ. I fixed the contrast/brightness a little Cyrus.

 

Marcos

 

[RB26powered74zcar]

I have another one of those I/C's if your intrested. The duma$$ JDM Importer sent a 2JZ I/C with my RB26 motor set instead of a GTR I/C.

[cyrus]

I just bought 7 feet of 2.5" alum tubing 5 feet of 3 inch tubing to make my own. I need some help.

 

Why is the pipe after and before the IC 2.5" then it gets 3" before the throttle?

 

where to buy aluminum elbows? t-bolt clamps?

 

what Spearc IC will fit? Who can make a custom Spearc?

 

Any suggestions on how to elimiate the PS from the engine ( dummy pulley, etc?)

 

Ps the engine mount hits the steering shaft.

[SHO-Z]

When welding on SS with TIG to get a quality weld you need purge gas, argon, inside of the pipe/tubing. If not you will get what welders call sugar inside the weld, not good. On thin tubing all that is needed is to fuse the tubing together. If you watch the puddle real close you will see the silicon dot in the puddle. If it is swirling you are getting full penetration. I would not weld on SS tubing without a purge on any intake pieces.. For exhaust you can use a product called Solar Flux. Paint this on the inside of the tubing and it will form a glass cover on the SS to keep it from sugaring. When I used this product we found that water worked better than alcohol to mix with.

 

I welded brew piping on a couple of Budweiser Breweries.

[Hybrid240z]

I am new to TIG welding, well welding in general, and that is the same thing I have read and heard. I have seen the sugaring effect myself on my SS practice pieces but have set up my argon gas cylinder so I can back purge real work pieces.

 

Marcos

[cyrus]

I just bought 7 feet of 2.5" alum tubing 5 feet of 3 inch tubing to make my own. I need some help.

 

Why is the pipe after and before the IC 2.5" then it gets 3" before the throttle?

 

where to buy aluminum elbows? t-bolt clamps?

 

what Spearc IC will fit? Who can make a custom Spearc?

 

Any suggestions on how to elimiate the PS from the engine ( dummy pulley, etc?)

 

Ps the engine mount hits the steering shaft

[Z-Gad]

Aluminum elbows... http://www.burnsstainless.com/ pricey, but nice quality

 

Spearco intercooler... http://www.roadraceengineering.com/intercoolers.htm ... best price I found new (Ebay aside) model 2-221 flows 1080cfm (good for ~800 hp)

 

For silicone couplers and clamps, http://turbohoses.com/

That is Hoover's site and he takes care of us Hybridz guys.

 

 

My power steering is eliminated from my motor. I won't be able to get a photo until about Sunday, but will email it to you if you like.

 

I am sad to hear about the engine mount hitting the steering column. Some creative engine mount options may be in my future.

 

Sidenote .. I just picked up the T88H manifold (big runner) for the 2JZ. I just have to decide on a turbo now

[cyrus]

Here is some info that will help future project-tiers.

 

I have been measuring my car up.

 

The 240Z drive line and engine and diff are 7/8" off of the center line towards the passenger side.

 

The 94 supra TT have centered engines, drivelines, and diffs.

 

This may make routing exhaust in the tunnel tricky...

[Z-TARD]

Another source for Aluminum elbows: http://www.mcmaster.com/ Search for part #43485K156 It's a butt weld 2.5 inch, sch 40 90 degree elbow.

 

Also, for welding on the stainless with an argon purge, You can safely tack the two together prior to welding with low amperage. Just 3 or 4 tack welds just big enough to hold it together for welding. Set up your purge system after tack welding. make sure your purge gas to the pipe is not very high, or it will blow out the weld puddle, or create exsessive concavity in the weld inside. Cap off both ends of the pipe with duct tape, run the argon hose into one end (The lower one, since argon is heavier than air and will need to fill from the bottom up, like water) have a hole in the tape on the other end about the same diameter as the inside of the argon hose. Adjust the flow so that you can just barely feel it by putting a moist fingertip over the upper purge hole, it should flow just enough to evaporate spit off your finger. Let it flow for a while before welding to ensure that all oxygen is purged from the pipe. Depending on how thick your stainless is, you may want to tack it together leaving a small gap (about 1/32 to 1/16") between the two peices to aid penetration. The ends to be welded should be beveled as well, but not to a sharp edge. Make sure there is at least 1/16" flat on the edge of the beveled pipe. Your first pass on the pipe should be relatively flat, don't add too much filler metal here. Not adding any filler, however, will cause the weld to be weak and brittle. The next pass can be welded with a greater amount of filler, just make sure not to let it get to hot so it doesn't burn through your previous layer. It's a good idea to leave the purge gas on for your second layer as well. If the pipe is pretty thin (1/8" or less) 1 layer of weld would probably be sufficient. Hope this helps,

 

Mike

[cyrus]

Rant start: Toyota you make me crazy!!!!!!!!!! The stupid engine is mill at 15 degrees per side, which makes the engine mount 15 degrees off, which means the the engine mount studs are like an upside down "V" which mean I would have to cut slots for the studs to drop in. So I machined the mounts and added machined wedges and relieved the engine mounts to clear the oil pan and so I could have the mounts straight like a c5 corvette. End Rant:

[Briguy280Z]

I really like your conversion and i am interested in the information. I will be following this thread for a wile. I just have a suggestion if i may. Could you use rubber elbos and use the strait allumium where you can use it. It is hard to bend SS but you can make it look nice. Check out these guys, i am sure that it will withstand 30psi boost without a problem. This is pretty thick stuff

 

http://www.airflo.com/rubberparts.html

 

You can take care of that air box by installing a K&N so you can make up some room. I know you are looking to keep it cali legal...you can install a K&N without having any problems with the Referee. I did and my LS-1 passed without a problem.

 

I think a taurus fan and griffin would work well unless your really squezzing it in there?

 

Keep the pic's comming!!!!

 

 

"Its time to think of something different when the idea becomes the institution"

[ZROSSA]

Cyrus,

I read somewhere ages ago that if you have your intercooler tubing larger on the exit then you wil get less of a pressure drop due to the intercooler. Maybe this is why toyota has a larger throttle body.

 

Douglas