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twin plate clutch for L28's....


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When I was in Japan a friend of mine had a Skyline with an L28 turbo that had a triple plate clutch. This thing grabbed like crazy, could bark the tires in 5th gear no less, I would love to have one again, but I can't find any over here in the states. Does anyone out there know of any for sale? Thanks

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Having raced a 240Z with a multi-disc clutch, I can tell you its not a simple swap and its not for a street car. You need the change to an annular clutch release mechanism, you'll need a different flywheel, and you'll need a different snout on the starter to move it inward to match the new flywheel.

 

Also, multi-disc clutches don't like to be slipped. They are either in or out. Slipping them will cook the friction discs and blue the drive plates. On my 240Z the clutch friction discs lasted for 15 hours of track time and the drive plates lasted for 30 hours of track time. The friction discs were $102 each and the drive plates were $100 for two.

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Quartermaster' date=' AP, and Tilton all make multi-plate clutches in 7.25", 5.5", 5", and 4.5" diameters that can installed behind the L6. Go search their web sites.

 

I ran a Quartermaster 5.5" double disc clutch behind my L6.[/quote']

 

The last time I spoke with Tilton, they said the flywheels have not been available since '97. I lucked out and bought one used, setup for a 7.25" dual disc. It uses the stock slave and throwout sleeve, but with a tilton bearing. A stock starter used as well.

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The most cost effective racing clutch I ran is from 10000rpm in california. double disc 5.5". Everything you need. from flywheel to pressure plate. All you need is an 71 -73 slave cylinder with adjustable through and fab a clutch pedal stop. No big deal. The flywheel is the standard l28 size so no grinding block to make things fit and no special starter. The whole setup was $895.00 and held like no other. This was after I shreaded a centerforce dual friction twice. Is it for racing and is not a good setup for the street due to the constant maintenance. But if you race then you are used to that

IMPORT RACING CLUTCHES & FLYWHEELS LIST RACER

APPLICATIONS:Datsun/Nissan, Toyota 2 & 3 TC, 20-22R, and 2.6 L Mitsubishi

5012 2 Disc 5.5 Clutch & Flywheel Complete 945.00 895.00

 

 

http://www.10000rpm.com/price.htm

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I went to 10,000 RPM last Wensday (2 1/2 hour drive)and had the measurments taken to make a 7.5" dual disc clutch fit inside my bellhousing.I was very impressed and talked to a couple of Pacific Street Car association racers who were at the dyno on the facility. I was told that the new Kevlar discs can be run on the street and my dual disc setup will hold up to 750 rwh.The clutch should be ready on Monday.I was running a clutch speacialties 2600lb clutch with a sintered iron disc and it had to be changed out about every 5000 street/track miles and new wear surfaces had to be installed.The new clutch when setup should last quite a while, my clutch was more expensive than the $895 due to the Kevlar discs being custom made to drag racing specs.

 

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/album?.dir=15c7&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

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  • 5 years later...

510six, I know this is an old post, but are you still running the 10,000rpm clutch? I too have the sintered-iron clutch from Clutch Specialties and I'm getting tired of it's street manners. My car is street driven, autoX'd, and drag raced so I have always assumed that I'd have to live with an annoying clutch. The sintered-iron setup is my fourth clutch and is the only one that would hold when boost comes on. I might be willing to switch to a 10,000rpm setup but I want to make sure

 

1) it fits in my BW T5 bell housing, TO-bearing and slave

2) it'll hold over 500ft lb torque with a VERY steep ramp up

3) the street manners are better then my sintered-iron clutch.

4) it can still be drag raced and AutoX'd affectively

 

I talked to Ron at 10,000rpm and he thinks the 7.4 2-disk kevlar work work well but I'd really like your perspective before I buy. It's nearly impossible to find a clutch that can perform all three of my requirements well but I thought I'd give 10,000rpm a look.

 

Thanks,

John

Edited by jgkurz
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510six, I know this is an old post, but are you still running the 10,000rpm clutch? I too have the sintered-iron clutch from Clutch Specialties and I'm getting tired of it's street manners. My car is street driven, autoX'd, and drag raced so I have always assumed that I'd have to live with an annoying clutch. The sintered-iron setup is my fourth clutch and is the only one that would hold when boost comes on. I might be willing to switch to a 10,000rpm setup but I want to make sure

 

1) it fits in my BW T5 bell housing, TO-bearing and slave

2) it'll hold over 500ft lb torque with a VERY steep ramp up

3) the street manners are better then my sintered-iron clutch.

4) it can still be drag raced and AutoX'd affectively

 

I talked to Ron at 10,000rpm and he thinks the 7.4 2-disk kevlar work work well but I'd really like your perspective before I buy. It's nearly impossible to find a clutch that can perform all three of my requirements well but I thought I'd give 10,000rpm a look.

 

Thanks,

John

 

 

I am running a 10,000 rpm tripple plate clutch as the dual disc slipped on the dyno at 440rwh, the kevlar discs are proving to be less of a maintenance issue than having the flywheel wear surface and the clutch pressure plate rebuilt every 5k street miles. If you are making less than 420 rwh the dual disc clutch should work fine , over that a tripple is in order.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134/6

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Also be aware they can make the 'flywheel' portion weigh what you want. It does not have to be a 15# total weight assembly. They can meat-up the flywheel or outer rim area to make the car a bit more streetable.

 

Of course, with weight comes easier slipability, and with slipability comes wear...

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i just shot these guys a mail! curious as this could be great for my track driven car as a tilton is nice.. but the flywheel will be a custom job again.. And for the prize these guys seem to be the way to go (for my l6 track car in progress)

Edited by frank280zx
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I am running a 10,000 rpm tripple plate clutch as the dual disc slipped on the dyno at 440rwh, the kevlar discs are proving to be less of a maintenance issue than having the flywheel wear surface and the clutch pressure plate rebuilt every 5k street miles. If you are making less than 420 rwh the dual disc clutch should work fine , over that a tripple is in order.

http://www.cardomain.../ride/2071134/6

 

 

510six, thanks for the response. I'm over 420rwhp so I guess the triple is in order.

 

Did you have to modify your throwout bearing assy or slave?

 

Are the street manners any better than the sintered-iron setup?

 

-John

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510six, thanks for the response. I'm over 420rwhp so I guess the triple is in order.

 

Did you have to modify your throwout bearing assy or slave?

 

Are the street manners any better than the sintered-iron setup?

 

-John

 

With a double and a triple disc clutch you normally have to go with an annular clutch release instead of the fork and slave cylinder setup. Like this pic:

 

ClutchRelease.jpg

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510six, thanks for the response. I'm over 420rwhp so I guess the triple is in order.

 

Did you have to modify your throwout bearing assy or slave?

 

Are the street manners any better than the sintered-iron setup?

 

-John

 

 

The only changes that had to be made in order for the tripple disc to fit was that the "pivot ball" length and the throwout bearing holder were both reduced. The T5 bellhousing in my car (to a T56) has already been modified, so the lengths will probably be different.

 

The tripple disc clutch has better street manners than the sintered iron setup, but it is still an on/off switch.

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A good single plate will take 500whp turbo torque but thats a Z32 TT setup using off the shelf components. Pic of mine which is a local job where I was told Kevlar is not the best material for clutches due to the risk of oil contamination, works not too bad in traffic with the sprung center, great on a road course. Guess there would be a US equivalent.

post-185-017520700 1278051605_thumb.jpg

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