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For a all out Road Racing suspension what would be on the list?


Guest ON3GO

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Guest ON3GO

Today i went with the Houston Ferrari club to Texas World Speedway and had a blast.

got up close and personal with all the greats: F40's, F1 car, 360 challenge cars, 360's, 612's, 512's, 308's, 355's and everything else under the ferrari name tag.

 

anyways i had a blast and just listening and seeing a F1 car and other Ferraris on the track got my heart pumping.

 

SO.. since the shop i work for has a few friends in the Ferrari club and i have a few in the BMW and Porsche club here in Houston and i get invites all the times to go racing with them, im now ditching Drag Racing all together for the Hulk Z and going just roadracing.

 

its not going to be a street car anymore...

 

so heres the list on what it has.

 

Modern Motorsports 8in coilovers (225 f, 250 r)

Custom Nissan Motorsports Sway bars

MK's adjustable front control arms

full energy suspension bushings

section struts

tokico illum 5-way struts

JSK front hats and caliper mounts

Wilwood Superlite 4piston front calipers

Wilwood Custom front S.S brake lines

Wilwood 12inch front vented rotors

Wilwood front racing brake pads

Chrylser Brake Master cylinder

Modern Motorsports 240sx rear caliper brackets

Silvia S13 rear calipers

Z31 n/a rear rotors

CCW 17x11 rear and 17x9.5 front wheels

MSA Bumpersteer spacers

Nismo Quick Steering Knuckles

Goodridge S.S rear brake lines

KVR carbon fiber rear brake pads

300zx R200 LSD 3.7 rear end

280zx turbo CV's with custom adapters

 

im going to take off the rear brake system and put on a better one that can take it like the front system i have on it.

strut tower braces will come when i get the car and make my own..

camber plates are on the list and also a 12 point roll cage.

 

anything else you road racers would add?

i just want to show a few ferrari and porsche owners that im not just a old jap crap car.

im a good enough driver to do my part, i just want my suspension and brakes to do its part.

 

thanks guyz

 

mike

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track time...

 

I'll second that and I realize that you said that you've been doing it but you didn't really give any details. The setup that you've already got on your car is very good and you should concentrate on your driving and figure out where the weak links are and upgrade from there.

 

Have you driven your car on the track yet? I haven't really been following the progress but I didn't think it was on the road yet. I apologize if I'm wrong but if you haven't driven the car yet you shouldn't be thinking about further modifications.

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Arizona Z car suspension. All 4 corners. Big bucks. How fast can you afford to go?

 

Then sell me the stuff you take off.

 

Quiaffe. R180 at that (saves weight). Aluminum driveshaft.

 

Gut interior, aluminum dash with mininum number of gages, full cage, and of course the camber plates will come with the Arizona Z car suspension. 15" wheels. No bling.

 

Get with JohnC and get alignment specs for the track. Guess they aren't the same as street.

 

Aluminum radiator, lexan windows, carbon fiber hood-hatch-door skins, anywhere you can get it. No heater, AC, power steering or even radio. Single racing seat. Small battery. 8 gallon fuel cell, maybe smaller. Gotta shed weight. Under 2000# would be a good goal.

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Guest ON3GO

no jeff i havent drive then car yet but it is on the road and done, i just gotta get it.

when i get it its getting taken apart again for powder coating and detail work.

at that time ill be stripping the interior even more, add my sparcos to it along with the momo steering wheel with quick disconect, and make the strut bars and other braces for the car.

then it gets stiched welded and all the Vintage Tech Carbon Fiber parts go on it.

Then Paint and sponsor decals and then drive it..

after it gets slow again to me ill add even a bigger turbo or do what i have wanted to do to it and swap in a 2JZ block with a 1JZ head and boost the hell out of it.

take the Hulks L28 motor and put it in the blue cars and start all over again lol.

 

Blue Z is pretty much done, it has the standalone, new paint, wheels, exterior done, interior done, and everything else. all i need to do is finish the suspension and brakes and the bigger turbo i still have to pick up and thats it.. it will be done! my 1st project car done since my Z32 and MKIV.

cant wait!

 

mike

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I am thinking best bet would be to get more track time and figure out what you want the car to do better. I like inverse weight reduction myself=more boost. If its going to be track only you can pull a lot more stuff out of the car to pull some lbs off of it, but it sounds like you have the braking, wheels and suspension department handled pretty well, just need to adjust a few things I think your set. You have a roll cage yes???

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Guest ON3GO
I am thinking best bet would be to get more track time and figure out what you want the car to do better. I like inverse weight reduction myself=more boost. If its going to be track only you can pull a lot more stuff out of the car to pull some lbs off of it, but it sounds like you have the braking, wheels and suspension department handled pretty well, just need to adjust a few things I think your set. You have a roll cage yes???

ya have a 12 point ill be putting in once the car comes here.

going to burn off the Yoko ES100 tires on there now and get some slicks or some type of road racing tires.

dash will be a Carbon Fiber unit from Vintage Tech Z, i hope to be one of the 1st with them, along with Carbon Fiber ZG flares that are a tad wider then the reg units we can get.

gonna also make some under body panels that will smooth the whole underbody out and i think this will help out greatly! we are doing this to the M3 and maybe the blue Z.

car will run no carpet just like the blue Z and no a/c nor heat like the blue Z.

it will sport euro bumpers (maybe VTZ carbon units) but thats no big deal.

once all is said and done i still want to do the 280YZ widebody kit to it with some wider wheels and etc, but thats down the road.

 

mike

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The car has more than enough and should do great on the track. I fully agree with fly327:

Track time, track time, track time, track time, track time, track time...

Then get even more track time and off course good tires, a tire pyrometer and good alignment shop all help.

Oh, I almost forgot, keep saving money for more track time, as it almost always does more for your lap time than new hot parts (since you car is already well set up). Finally enjoy watching embarrassed guys with exotics cars look away from you in the paddocks (ego boost) and don't be embarrassed when someone with a beat up civic track whore gets ahead of you (humility).

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lol Mike you kill me bro...

 

"im going to make my own... there is nice but not for no 250 bucks.. you can make one for less then 100 bucks easy."

 

haha didn't I tell you that not but 2 days ago? lol.

 

first you need to make up your mind. You spent thousands makn' that damn car for the street and you haven't even driven it. Now your gonna tear it all apart, take all the shiny off, everything out and bare bone it to go to the track. Your nutz man. lol I'd leave it the way it is, and just reduce some weight with interior. get fully adjustabel suspension pieces (which i thought you already had the control arms from MIke Kelly).

 

What's up with the chrysler master cylinder?

I would go with Earls SS lines from cali, espeically if your converting over to 240sx stuff.

 

 

lol why am i even bothering responding to this Mike? lol

Call me tomorrow about the Porsche

-Ed

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Guest ON3GO
lol Mike you kill me bro...

 

"im going to make my own... there is nice but not for no 250 bucks.. you can make one for less then 100 bucks easy."

 

haha didn't I tell you that not but 2 days ago? lol.

 

first you need to make up your mind. You spent thousands makn' that damn car for the street and you haven't even driven it. Now your gonna tear it all apart' date=' take all the shiny off, everything out and bare bone it to go to the track. Your nutz man. lol I'd leave it the way it is, and just reduce some weight with interior. get fully adjustabel suspension pieces (which i thought you already had the control arms from MIke Kelly).

 

What's up with the chrysler master cylinder?

I would go with Earls SS lines from cali, espeically if your converting over to 240sx stuff.

 

 

lol why am i even bothering responding to this Mike? lol

Call me tomorrow about the Porsche

-Ed[/quote']

the master cyl i have is great, plenty of power and fits great!

i have the 240sx stuff on the rear and getting rid of it.. well putting it on the blue Z atleast.

i have all S.S. brake lines already too.

i dont have anything shiney on the green Z, the interior is still a mess just has a RSI racing seat and thats it. doesnt have carpet or anything.

its in worse shape then the blue Z and you know how the blue Z is :D.

 

ill call ya tomorrow about the 911, and ill see if i can get the pics of the RUF porsche at the track today :D

 

mike

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If you are going with a slick or DOT race tire I would go stiffer on the springs. I would also run Wilwoods in the rear, isn't much more. You will need a prop valve to get everything you can out of them too. I like having an adjustable front sway bar too, makes fine tuning easier than swaping springs.

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You've got all you need already on the car. As many have said, track time, track, time, track time. Any additional money spent on your car (other then for safety and reliability) is not going to make you any faster. Sorry to be an additional bearer of bad news, but your car is slow because you are driving it :-D Luckily, that's something that can be fixed and once its fixed, you'll be able to drive ANY car much faster. Good luck and remember, you're doing this because its fun!

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Guest ON3GO
You've got all you need already on the car. As many have said, track time, track, time, track time. Any additional money spent on your car (other then for safety and reliability) is not going to make you any faster. Sorry to be an additional bearer of bad news, but your car is slow because you are driving it :-D Luckily, that's something that can be fixed and once its fixed, you'll be able to drive ANY car much faster. Good luck and remember, you're doing this because its fun!

well i understand that john.

but since you said it "safety and reliabilty"... whats some good gear to look into getting?

maybe a better seat then the ones i have, harness, just anything that will protect my *** and my passengers just incase shat happens.

rather be safe then be the best.

 

mike

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Finally... putn' that head to good use.

-Safety Equipment :-)

You know I run the 83 brake booster and master cylinder?

 

 

And that's a seriously scary thought if the Hulk is in worse condition interior than the blue one in my garage. That's just scary bro.

 

Aight well i gotta get back to studyn'.. This Business Law test is gonna be killer.

 

-Ed

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