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Why go RB26 (under 500hp) opposed to rb25


violacleff

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So I ran across this link on the web http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Board=UBB9&Number=67789925 and I got to wondering, if one is shooting for 450-500 rwhp, would the uprades necessary to reach this on an rb25 exceed what it takes to get there on an rb26 after purchasing a front clip? Here's what I can come up with so far (lets assume for both these motors, motor mounts, Injectors, Stand alone ems, fuel pumps, and fmic)

 

RB26: Extra initial cost, Bigger turbos, extra 5 speed, z-31 oil pan, more expensive exhaust and intercooler plumbing.

 

RB 25: Bigger turbo, custom intake, aftermarket header, Bigger Turbo, ext wg.

Did I miss anything here (major)

 

Assuming the info on the site is reliable, both cars retain stock head and block. But if you want, we can do arp head studs on the rb25 just to play it safe.

 

For those who are more knowledgeable on the price this stuff, I'm wondering which would end up cheaper, would there be a large price gap between the two? I don't really care about future upgrage potential. Just the cost to get to where I mentioned above.

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Guest JAMIE T

You'll need an oil pan for the '25 also. That's a hard one. I do like saying I've got a GT-R motor. Kinda ricey sounding but it's about as far from ricer as it could possibley be.

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You'll need an oil pan for the '25 also. That's a hard one. I do like saying I've got a GT-R motor. Kinda ricey sounding but it's about as far from ricer as it could possibley be.

 

Nothing sounds cooler than saying Twin Turbo either (if you decide to keep both turbos).

 

Other than that, the RB20DET Oil Pan and Pickup are fairly cheap...

 

Intially the RB25DET is cheaper because you dont have to dish out the amount for the Tranny. The standalone is not needed if you wanna use the stock wiring. Everything about both of those motors are obvious. If you havent figured things out alredy you should take a look around the forums for more in-depth considerations.

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I suppose you both may have missed what I was really going for in this post, but to clarify, I really don't care about "whats cooler to say I have" or "what looks cooler under the hood." I would have posted on a honda forum to find that out. Also quoc, I already mentioned the tranny in my post. As far as the oil pan goes, I took that info from stony's sticky who said quote "if you go rb25 you do not need to change the oil pan." This might be old misinformation that I have not yet caught up on. This post was merely for a hp to dollar analysis up to 450-500 rwhp. BTW, I have read all rb posts on this site.

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My buddy owns a shop in Northern California and his answer to your question is RB25. He is doing the RB25 swap for his personal car after weighing those same decisions. I have not personally done either swap, but have read a ton about it and talked to some of my gearhead buddies about it. The general consensious is the RB25 is a cheaper swap. If you want to go beyond 500hp then it can be argued a bit more. Also, someone with good fabrication skills and high comfort with the wiring it becomes less of a cost issue and more of a time issue, because the RB26 is clearly more difficult. If you are not doing all your own fabrication and install work then the cost will obviously go up significantly. With that said IMHO based on my knowledge of this swap the RB25 is still the cheaper route.

 

 

Good Luck,

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Guest JAMIE T

No, I didn't mis-understand your post. I was stating my opinion of ME and my car and engine. I am pretty sure you still need the Z31 200ZR oil pan with the RB25. The Skyline still uses a front sump afterall.

 

For the '26 to make 500rwhp you'll need to get the stock turbos upgraded to steel or inconel wheels. That, injectors, and a boost controller will put you at 500rwhp. You can even use the stock ecu with a programmer like F-Con. Stony's '26 made 400rwhp with the stock turbos. He was limited to 14-15psi with the stock turbo's. If he could have run 23-25 psi(steel or inconel turbo wheels) it would have made 500 rwhp.

 

The only thing I know about '25's it that they ARE cheaper to begin with. The water pump, cam gears, timing belt and a couple other items are interchangable with the '26.

 

The bonus of the '25 is that the front cut will come with the correct tranny. No need to drop another $500-1000 on a proper trans. When I bought Stony's motor, I got the proper trans with it. So, I lucked out. Or PAID for it depending on how you look at it.

 

The post you linked to indicated a heavily modified RB25. The turbo was said to be good for well over 600 hp. The manifold was art in metal. A manifold of that quality will cost a grand. I think the answer is mute. My suggestion would be to start with the best one you can afford. If you can afford $3700 for a stock RB26 with no trans then buy one. If you can afford $2500 for a RB25DET with trans, then buy one. Either one will make 500 rwhp. The '26 will live forever on stock internals at that level, I don't know about the '25

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HMMMM i dont ever recall saying you dont have to swap the oil pan on a rb25. What i do remember is that the rb25 requires no oil pan modifications where the same pan for the rb26 requires extensive mods to fit on the motor. the rb20 from a z31 in japan will bolt right in without changing the oil pan. So in short if you bolt in a rb20 from a z31 you dont need to change the oil pan. but either the rb25 or 26 will both require a different oil pan. Sorry if i mistated that somewhere. If you could post the link from where you got that i will go back and correct it. :redface:

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It really depends on what you intend to do with the car, as well. If you truely intend to stay around 450 (smokin' in an S30), and it's just a cruiser with a little track duty, there's nothing wrong with the RB25. You'll need cams to make it breath beter, though. You can also get away with a T3/T4 hybrid that will bolt to the stock exhaust manifold, too (you may need an additional flange and longer bolts as a spacer, though). Above this level, though, and you really have to squeeze this motor for minimal gains. The last Rb25 I tuned was running TEC3, 272 cams, GReddy intake w/Q45 throttle, and T66 Garrett turbo on a Trust manifold. It made 501hp at 1.5 bar. This is the absolute limit for the stock bottom end. Any ping at this level, and the piston ring lands are going south for the winter (25 and 26). By comparrison, another of my customers has a 26 with close to the same mods, 272's, SDS EFI, and pistons (stock bore and compression) and rods for abuse insurance. Stock throttles and modified Nismo GT LeMans turbos on Veilside manifolds. 1.5 bar put this engine at over 700hp. That's the 25/26 difference. If you do intend to go higher, 200hp for $2000 is CHEAP.

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  • 2 years later...
Please explain how.

 

simple. most importantly, the head designs are different enough to make it easier or more reliable to pack more air into the cylinders on RB26 than on the RB25. anyone and everyone knows that developing horsepower means developing an efficient engine head.

 

add the stronger internals, a big single turbo, put some ARP rod bolts and head studs + metal headgasket, and you have what Boozt3d had.

 

680whp on a stock shortblock (no rod bolt upgrades)

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