Jump to content
HybridZ

painting a car with a roller...


J__

Recommended Posts

sorry mate, i posted a pic up on a local forum too but i linked to ur site also, where as on this site i assume everyone has enough of a brain to see where the picture is and look around if they are interested, or go to the orginal moparts thread, although yours is a great summary and short progression through everything

 

...you can see where people are coming from??? i didn't realise servers are actully smart lol

 

my opinions the same as your's peggus, as i'm sure alot of others are too, due to how far this thing has spread, i'm glad i came across it on this forum :D i think your hood looks so dam sexy, and anyone who says that its stupid needs to look at more OEM paint jobs and then try this themselves. also this technique it gives me a chance to paint my car a colour i would never pay 5g for it to be painted! i could also never spray at my house as my mum has allegies, the smell from this stuff isn't that bad, and as you can just do it in an openish area its all good

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 204
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Guest peggus

No big deal, I noticed that I'm also getting traffic from some forum down under, I presume that's the local forum you mentioned.

 

Thanks for linking my site, and thanks for the praise.

 

-Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I called Rustoleum's Service Center, about thinning the paint for spraying. I was told 10% Acetone was the max. That's what I used on my hood with Satin Black. I used a Devilbis Finishline HVLP Gun on a 75 degree day. I was able to keep a wet edge going nicely, the finish is even and it looks great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

well guys i took a shot at doing this but i didnt use a roller.. i used the spray cans they sell... i first took my older fender i had laying around and wet sanded it to 1000grit... then i took and put a thin layer of the aluminum silver on it. let that sit and wet sanded with 800 grit.. let it dry put on another coat and then wetsanded with 1000grit. 2 more coats wet sanding in between. on my last coat i put it on thick and let it sit. next i have to wet sand that and ill take pics to show yall how it came out. im really happy with it. thinking about finding a good glossy black and doing that to my car. since i am stuck on gloss black. but it is coming out really well. i might also try a few differnt types of spray paint. any suggestions or comments are welcome. my car is currently flat black and as smooth as a babies bottom.hehe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey lets look at this from this perspective...

 

With the poor quality crap paintjobs new cars in general ( especially the econo boxes ) it doesnt take much to have a nice paintjob as long as you do an adequate job on prep and body repair...

But be realistic... SHOW quality means sits at SEMA and makes people say DAMN! and that comes from time, talent and the best quality materials.

I personally wouldnt have it because I would be afraid to drive it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Don't count on it... This tremclad method is as it sounds, too good to be true. As a professional autobody repairer and painter I can deffinitely say that the pics you see of this guy's orange beetle and charger dont acually show you how it looks in real life. If you want to achieve a show car finnish, it takes quality products and the proper application. Unfortunately autobody is a trade that everyone thinks they can do but in reality it isn't as simple as a bit of sanding , putting on some filler, priming then painting.

 

To get your z looking like that blue show car can easily cost $5000 and up. And thats if your car needs next to nothing for work but sand paint and polish. In my opinion if you are fixing or restoring a car and want to be proud of it than paint is the one thing that should not be cheaped out on. After all, thats what everyone sees, Im not saying that you shouldn't go and spend the money on chrome and motor work but in all likelyhood youll probably end up costing yourself more work in the long run when you finally decide to have a professional fix and paint your car after your own attempt's have failed, trust me, I have seen hundreds of customers try and fail to do their own paint and bodywork, and then have to pay thousands more than if they had just left it alone and have someone do it for them in the first place. I'm not telling you what to do but, take it as a suggestion from someone who has dealt with this for a long time.

 

When I was 18 me and my friend painted a 93 f150 with sunburst yellow rustoleum after it got stolen and driven to mexico and beat up. We did all the bodywork and prep work by ourselves. A few years later somone smashed into the side of it and we took it to get an estimate so the person who crashed into could have their insurance pay for it. The guy who came out to estimate it said that the "professional paint job" was worth more than the truck and that a company like maaco wouldnt be able to match the paint finish anyway so we should just have the truck totalled. We had painted like 5 cars before that though. Anyways if you prep it right anyone can make this paint look really good. Not show quality but way better than maaco and cheaper too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep! mentioned it in the other rustoleum thread. It looks like a good thing to get...If you have the extra 5 bucks laying around(you probably don't if you want to paint your car with a roler)

 

It is pretty much a condensed version of all the information from the internet. If you just spend the time reading what the original guy talked about on the moparts forum then you will get basically the same info.

Still good to stand there and skim through!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

ok so i paint the entire car with 4 coats so far but it looks like i got drip marks and when i look at the paint at certain angles i can see it drips of paint running down through the 4 layers....paint looks nice other than these certain areas..so the question is should i wetsand it and put more layers or just continue to add layer and sand at the end???..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wetsand until it is flat then add some layers. You may wear through a layer getting it flat but that is fine. Just add more paint on top. You can give the drip area a quick polish to see if you got it flat enough. I just use aluminum polish to do a quick check... Just sand it back down before you go back over it.

OTM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...