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AZC front willwood kit concern


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well i got them and installed them, the look great, fit great and are beefy

 

Now I have a problem. My drivers side rotor is badly out of round. As i spin it, i see it going from one side of the pad to the other, probably a good 1/8" or so side to side movement. I was very disapointed, how could brand new rotors be out of round this badly? THe guy i took it to get turned didnt even want to do them because he said they were so bad that if he turned them i would have nothing left

 

The passenger side one seems good, at least visually i cant see it moving side to side at all compared to the pad

 

I will try to throw them back on the machine and measure how far out of round. What am i supposed to do? ???

 

and what are the chances of it being somethng else, like my hubs I got off a 280z to make the kit work? I highly doubt that though

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I had this same problem when I installed the Z31 vented rotors with spacers...

I had an old set turned and when I installed them they were warped out of spec...

Then I purchased NEW NAPA rotors... they were even WORSE...

I ordered a set of JAP Mountain rotors.. better but still warped...

 

I tried clocking the rotors around and the warp followed the rotors not the spacers or hubs. I checked with a few mechanics and they all said that "We see that all the time"... apparently the best way to "fix" this is to mount everything up and then take the HUB with the ROTORS to the machine shop and have them turned as an assembly.... It worked for me.. I am pretty sure it will work for you.

 

You might try marking the assembly and mount them 90* and 180* clocked to see if the warp follows the rotors or the hubs... If it turns out that the hubs have a problem then take them to a machine shop and have the rear surface trued... also check to see that the bearing races fit tightly inside the hubs... this can cause problems if someone butchered your hubs in a past life.

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My rotors were pretty far out also from AZC. I took them back apart and used a hand file to "dial in" the mounting tabs of the rotor. Trying different positions on and off a few times, I got them pretty close. Then I still had to have them turned quite a bit to get them perfect. I am betting that it's not Dave's CNC work but it's the castings from Wilwood..I didn't check each part individually though so I can't say for sure.

 

Sure is a sinking feeling to install new performance brakes and have to deal with warp!

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Welcome to the world of high performance!

 

My friend used to say that to me whenever some part that I bought didn't fit right out of the box. Used to drive me nuts. Now I get to drive someone else nuts... :icon54::wink::lol:

 

 

LoL! I still have my front set from AZC to install next week, hope it goes well.

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try taking the hubs off the car... pop the rear seal out and the inside bearing drops out... that is all you need to do...the rear seal is very flexible... it is very easy to remove and reinstall.

 

Take the hubs to any shop with a brake lathe... have them mount the hubs by the races and turn the rotors on the hubs as an assembly...

 

You will be amazed at how true this will make them...

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this is how i was going to do them, since the azc kit requires 280z front hubs, i got one from allzcar specialist

 

Had the rotors mounted to the hub and torqued down and this is how he was going to turn them, and said it was too out of round to turn

 

I was going to turn the whole assembly as a whole anyways, to get the truest cut and have them perfect, the passenger side was straight, the drivers was too far out of round for him to turn, he said most of the rotor thickness would have to be eaten away!!!!

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Are you guys having runout problems sure you're using Wilwood rotors, or are they some chinese knockoffs?

 

The reason I ask this is I've put eight sets of Wilwood front rotors on my car over the last few years, and I've never had over 2 or 3 thou of lateral runout, most of them are dead on. No turning, no clocking, no shims or filing the tabs, just bolt them on and check them with a dial indicator. In fact, I've pretty much stopped checking them.

 

I'm using the Wilwood "GT48" series rotors, and they have "WWE" machined into the casting on one of the tabs that bolt to the hat.

 

John

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I would check the bearing races first.Sounds like maybe one is not seated correctly.Mount the hub up on the lathe by itself and see if it wobbles.If the race scraped a little sliver of aluminum into the seat as it was driven in,it could cause your problem.Mine went on without any discernable runout,however I have managed to hotspot the rotors from holding the brake while doing burnouts.

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Mine went on without any discernable runout,however I have managed to hotspot the rotors from holding the brake while doing burnouts.

 

 

I don't see how you can possibly hot spot a rotor doing a burn out. Maybe after a run and threshold braking to stop and then sitting there with the brakes applied till they cooled.

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Once you get your rotors as close as you can by adjusting the adapters & clocking the rotors, take the car to your local Nissan dealer. He should have a machine that can turn the rotors on the car. I had some run-out with my JSK Willwood set-up but after a trip to my local Nissan dealer they have been smooth as silk.

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With a modular rotor you have three dissimilar rotating parts all bolted together: the hub, rotor center, and rotor casting. Any small imperfection in

ANY of the parts can and will cause runout (wobble) at the rotor surface. This frequently happens if the is a nick where the stock rotor has been pried off the back of the stock hub

In my instructions I specify thay the rotor, center, and hub be turned as an

assembly on a brake lathe to make it run true. This is considered standard installation practice for racing brakes.

In Nazar's case the rotor assembly had excessive runout and I have replaced it free of charge.

Dave

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As I have read on here before I was glad to find out Dave really does stand by his word and products

 

He completely took care of me and I greatly appriciate it and I should have it back by this weekend which is awesome

 

Otherwise, the brakes are awesome, they fit perfectly, look great and for the price, especially when I compare to other big brakes Ive had before on other cars, you can't beat his deal, a complete race willwood setup for under $1k is a steal, at less than $800 its awesome.

 

Thanks dave

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I don't see how you can possibly hot spot a rotor doing a burn out. Maybe after a run and threshold braking to stop and then sitting there with the brakes applied till they cooled.

You're into rockcrawling too aren't you Clifton? Don't tell me you've never seen those guys overheat their brakes while going 3 mph. I've seen it, and I've only been out there a couple times.

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