LT280z Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 im at a stand still at this point with my turbo set-up.... I need to know if there any differences in the strength of l28 rods specifically between the n42 block rods and the f54 turbo rods. Heres the deal...... I am building a fully forged bottum end but it will have to take a while because i have other more important priorities that i need to take car of first...so i will have a fully forged bottum end but it wont be for another 4 or 5 months..... Let me start by giving you my components(which are all in hand or in the mail) to give you a better idea of where im headed: Holset, 440cc's, megasquirt, fmic, tial 38mm wg, hks 2mm head gasket, p90 head, n47 intake, msd 6al, etc, etc Either bottum end i use will be outfitted with ARP heads,mains,rods options: #1 Very used f54 block with questionable cylinder walls new bearings, arp, light hone , leave stock pistons and rings option #2 11 thousand mile n42 bottum end this bottum end has been bored 20 over and has new pistons, bearings, etc, etc Option 2 is a very good n/a motor (runs like a champ) but will it hold up to 12psi on the street? I would rather use the n42 block because i know it has great compression, good bearings, good pistons and rings, etc and not have to spend the money on the f54 since the bottum end will only be in the car for a maximum of 6 months. But will the n42 bottum end be a strong as the f54 outfitted with the same hardware? or is it a huge concern at 12psi (dont think so) any and all help would be appreciated. Ted:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dapiper Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 I got over 400 hp on my N42 over 20 yrs of hard street and track use and only rebuilt bottom end twice. Used Aria's forgings and o-rings, otherwise stock and balanced. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Not a concern. In fact, johnc among others have verified that the N42 block is potentially stronger then the f54 block... do some searching, there are a few threads on that topic here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LT280z Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 Thanks Drax & Piper, I have found threads about the block itself but i cant seem to find any info on the rods from the n42 block....I was told a while back that all l28 rods were relatively the same rod???? Ive been searching for two days and have not found any definitive answers yet concerning the rods. I have total confidence in the block, but the rods are still in the grey area... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 A fully stock L28ET motor will run 12psi until the end of time with proper fuel, spark and intercooling. Heck, it will run 18psi all day 24/7 without sweating if you give it the right air/fuel/ign curves. After 18psi I would start thinking about head gasket, and internal bolts. If you are only going to run 12psi, I think you can run almost any part from any motor as long as the compression ratios remain low. All the factory parts are pretty darned durable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LT280z Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 Thanks Cyg, Compression will be 7.1....w/hks 2mm & p90 on the n42 bottum end. As stated above either bottum end will be equipped with arp throughout. Megasquirt will handle the fuel & timing, Holset Snail, etc Maybe what i wrote above was confusing but the list above is what i will run on the temporary block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeiss150 Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 why are you going with such a low CR? It might be kind of a dog off boost. If you are only gonna run 12 psi you can afford to use flat top pistons and get that CR up to 8.1:1. Just wondering. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 Your question is about the rods. The turbo rods are factory shot-peened and the non-turbo rods are not. DAW ^I did not know that! Cool. Anyhow, 12psi is what I hear you saying...in reality, I see 18+ in your future...build it for 18+, not 12. Sounds like you already are anyhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LT280z Posted September 9, 2006 Author Share Posted September 9, 2006 Zeiss: A friend of mine is running 7:1 and has all the same components as i do and i love the way his car feels in Boost.........plus i would think detonation would not be as much of a factor @ 7:1 as it would be @ 8:1 18psi on the f54block or the n42???? So since i know the history and miles(low) on the n42 block i will run the n42 block, p90, 2mm, arp, and all the accessories stated above. My plan is to street tune with the wideband and go to the dyno for final tuning. The dyno is actually only about a mile from my office. At what psi of boost should i start to question the n42 rods??? I know of several people who run 18psi on f54 rods...but thats the problem...im not running a f54...so give me some advice here guys......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LT280z Posted September 9, 2006 Author Share Posted September 9, 2006 Hey cygnusx1, Our cars look almost identical Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 The issue with L6 rods is not so much horsepower as it is rpm. If you keep the rpms down (under 7,000) on a 300 to 350 horsepower engine the rods and rod bearings should last just fine. That's assuming proper rod preparation, rotating assembly balancing, forged pistons, and ARP or the Nissan 9mm rod bolts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 fast z Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 Turbo rods are not shot peened, thats a new one, LOL. ALL L28rods are the same. EXACTLY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 whoa DAW.. relax man.. we are all discussing this.. I've run 20psi on my stock f54/p90a and stock headgasket no probs.. I also ran 18psi on my N42/N47 .. no probs =) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 fast z Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 I actually went to my shop today and compared a n42 set of rods and a F54 set of rods, and no sign of shot peining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LT280z Posted September 10, 2006 Author Share Posted September 10, 2006 Somebody needs to go do a few burnouts and calm down........I havent seen this much drama since i raced toy cars for bowling trophy's..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 fast z Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 All 280z rods are the same, 75-83 all models. Sorry Daw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 Seems to me that I am not going to believe either one of you until someone comes up with some evidence. Until then its two gooses talking crap on the Internet. I don't care if you're 45 and been building L28s for 30 years, prove it, or shut up. Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 Keep it civil guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 UH yea, KEEP IT CIVIL or we'll do it for you... This isn't Zcar.com guys... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 I just tried a general internet search to see if the nissan part numbers for the turbo rods differed from the non-turbo rod, but I was not able to find any resources for that. Does anybody know of a place to check the part numbers? If the turbo rod was indeed different from the factory, it should carry a different part number as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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