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Rumnhammer

Chris Rummel's easy follow RB into Z wireing guide

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To anyone who does not have the courage to DIY on an RB25det swap I have one thing to say; I am 18 years old and I did my own rb25det swap on my 260z with the immense help of this guide. Go ahead believe in yourself and give it a try. If you follow this guide you will not fail.

Edited by David GArcia

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BD Turbo Cool Down Timer 2

 

BDTurboCoolDownTimer2.png

 

So heres the deal.

 

In my car all the Ignition wires are tied to a a single 40amp relay that is activated by the old ignition wire that went to the coil.

The power that feeds that relay(ecu side) is fused and wired directly to my alternator/battery bus(I used one from an Infiniti Q45).

If you have relays down like the back of your hand then this should be enough description as to what Ive got installed. If you dont grasp this you should not proceed without help from someone that does.

 

So I have 1 8 gauge wire coming from my power bus to the relay and another coming from my ECU harness where all the ignition wires splice into. For example the Blk/Red, Blk/Wht, and Wht/Blk wires that feed pin 45, ECCS relay, and Fuel pump Relay. So my ECU is stand alone like this and almost completely isolated from the poor 37 year old wiring system in the car. I only have to worry about that 1 ign wire. Anyway what this has done is made it really easy for me to install my turbo timer.

 

We will call my battery side 8gauge wire Blue and my ECU side 8gauge wire Yellow for reference. Yellow is the wire we will be concerned with here. Yellow is the wire that you will be splicing into with the tan wire from the above diagram.

 

Other than that the diagram should be self explanatory.

You may not have to install the anti grind relay in the picture with this setup. The ignition should be off with the key and you will see all your gauges turn off and so should the power for the starter. I connected the relay up anyway, but could be a hassle until you get use to not being able to engage your starter until you depress your clutch pedal. BTW, installing a switch on the clutch pedal in an early Z isnt easy. Be warned. If you do not want to install the antigrind relay, dont install the brown wire or extra ground. That is it.

 

 

This cool down timer will activate as low as 250*F and go as high as 590*F on my pyro(but is only rated for 550*). You will need a thermocouple in the least to install this. I used an autometer pyrometer kit. Because this unit is designed for diesels the temperature settings are low for manifold side sampling. I had to relocate the thermocouple to the downpipe. Once I did that I was not idling at 750*F but closer to 550-600* which is just in range.

 

After a few months of messing around with this and dealing with tech support I feel Ive worked out the kinks.

 

If you want cheaper BD cool down timer units, check out Ebay. The seller thedieselshop on ebay has $140 units for sale. BD had no problem taking care of a warranty issue when I burnt out the first unit I bought. Mind you that these units were built to be application specific to Dodge, Ford, and Chevy diesel trucks less than 20 years old. So the instructions were only so helpful.

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Next you take the Tranny harnesses both Z and RB and use your oil pressure sender from the Z to that you connect the green wire like stock like this pic you can wire back the RB sender wire

 

RBZwire016.jpg

 

Then connect the 2 starter signal wires Yellow for Z and black/white RB like in this pic

 

RBZwire015.jpg

 

Next connect the reverse switch wires from the z harness to the sender wires for that on the RB harness and do the same for the neutral switch like in this pic

 

RBZwire014.jpg

 

 

You don't need to connect the speedo sender as this will only enable the top speed cut and you don' t want that do you? besides you will use this speedo sender to send a signal for the aftermarket speedo like the Autometer I used.

 

next if you use a greddy intake you will need to lengthen the two wires that go to the IAC valve since it is relocated I had already lengthend this since the plug is a ***** to get to even off the engine see this pic.

 

RBZwire013.jpg

 

 

Can someone please help me. What is the function of the tranny wires. I do not have a Z harness in my car anymore, I replaced it with an ezwiring harness. My best guess is that the reverse switch powers on the reverse lights? What purpose does the nuetral safety switch serve? What does it need to get connected to? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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I dont have my neutral switch hooked up yet. Eventually I will use that on an alarm so i can start the car with it knowing its in neutral, which i usually do park it in neutral. The IAC is needed for idle control but that is on the intake manifold.

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Can someone please have a look at the attached schematic sketch I have done to try and summarise the connections described in this thread.

 

I think visual aids are easy to convey technical data, but thats just me.

 

I am sure there are corrections required by those who have done this before!

post-356-062740000 1325719403_thumb.jpg

Edited by drunkenmaster

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I've been watching this thread for a while and have appreciated the shared wisdom of its users. Current putting a rb25det into a 260z. Lots of fun and expense. So my first question here is what is the this thing I have pictured and where does it go. It came with the loom. I've got most of it figured with the help from the forum but I'm much better with bits of wood and glue than cars.

 

post-181-003581000 1345510441_thumb.jpg

 

** EDIT: I re sized it for you.

 

 

Please Resize Images

http://forums.hybrid...es-please-read/

 

Sincere apologies for the oversized image. Will re-size in future.

Edited by GrahamV
3.5 megs is way to large. Please Resize Images to: 1024 x 768 pixels or close, before placing on HZ.

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Can someone please have a look at the attached schematic sketch I have done to try and summarise the connections described in this thread.

 

I think visual aids are easy to convey technical data, but thats just me.

 

I am sure there are corrections required by those who have done this before!

 

I like the simplicity of the diagram. I'm not really very good with electrical diagrams but this mostly makes sense to me. Perhaps a picture showing which plugs these mysterious 8 pin plugs are.

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I've been watching this thread for a while and have appreciated the shared wisdom of its users. Current putting a rb25det into a 260z. Lots of fun and expense. So my first question here is what is the this thing I have pictured and where does it go. It came with the loom. I've got most of it figured with the help from the forum but I'm much better with bits of wood and glue than cars.

 

post-181-003581000 1345510441_thumb.jpg

 

** EDIT: I re sized it for you.

 

 

Please Resize Images

http://forums.hybrid...es-please-read/

 

Sincere apologies for the oversized image. Will re-size in future.

 

I'm taking poke here but my gut tells me knock sensor?

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GrahamV. Does it also have vacuum ports on it? It looks like the stock boost controll solenoid.

Thanks 5thgenluder, my further research tell me you are right. It is also broken where the tubing fits up to it. Now I just have to decide whether to replace it or get an aftermarket control valve. The I have to find all the tubing that fits up to it. Thanks again for your help.

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Except from the pin numbers that might be diffrent form a RB25 to RB26 can i just follow the same wiring connection. All the other wires form the rb26 ECU plug can be cut off or just left alone. Im trying to start this but im nervous to cut stuff I shouldnt.

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Hey been using these wiring instructions so far to prep the harness on my rb26 for my 71 240z but it seems like there are definantly some differences. I do not have those 2 big plugs going to the body harness, insteaded i have these 4 smaller ones.

post-32972-0-15637400-1365389746_thumb.jpg

 

I have traced (pin 18) fuel pump relay, (pin 43) ignition switch start signal, (pin 32)  monitor check lamp, and (pin 7)  tach speed signal to the connector that I have circled yellow. I searched for the following (pin 45) ignition switch, (pin 28) engine temp sensor, (pin 58) battery power supply, (pin 109) injector power supply (small wire) and these wires all lead past the grommit into the engine bay without going to a body harness connector. All of my individual ground wires lead to the brown relay and then through the gromit into the engine bay instead of to the body harness. Would I be able to just splice into these wires and run them into the car to connect to ignition? would i be able to do the same for the individual ground wires?

 

I also can't find the Air regluator wire and Power wire for the vct & aac on my pinout. I see 1 thick solid red wire going to one of the smaller plugs ( labeled on picture) however i am only guessing if this is the injector power wire. my pinout shows (pin 109) injector power supply however it is a small black wire being spliced into about 4 or 5 other wires.

 

Would like to add that i have a complete r32 gtr parts car that i am pulling the parts from so i do have the complete body harness and alternator/trans harness aswell to reference too if that would help.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Kevin

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