Metallicar Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 Rustoleum in the not too far past had a paint that they offered to "Custom" mix. I still have a chart at the shop. I will get it this week and find out more. They still offer Tremclad in Canada that can be mixed in over 100 colors, but not here in the US. I would think that any paint store that does computer mixing could still do a computer match using White Rustoluem as a base. Well, maybe not a perfect match, but better than a S.W.A.G.. Here again is a test fender of mine in Rustoleum! The lady at Home Depot's Paint Department asked me "What in God's Name are you going to paint with this?" I still have this fender in the shop, the paint is almost bullet proof after 2 years. It is very reluctant to chip or scratch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted December 11, 2006 Author Share Posted December 11, 2006 what color is that?!?! Or what combo of colors! I want to do a lime green pinstripe with a little more neon color than that! Incredible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallicar Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 That color is a genuine Rustoleum Color! As I posted, they had a chart of over 100 colors that the retail store would "custom" mix using Rustoluem base paint. I have not seen the bases in Home Despot in a while, but the chart is still hanging on the shelf! I do not want to rant here about Home Despot here, becuase if I get started, I may not stop. Anyway, a decent paint store that has Rustoleum products should be able to mix anything using the Rustoleum white as a base. Look at: http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=555&SBL=5 The Tremclad seems to describe what I had used for my test fender. Anyway, I will grab that color chart and scan & post. Better yet, I will go to the paint shop and see if I can get the recipes for tinting the bases. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted December 11, 2006 Author Share Posted December 11, 2006 That would be sweet!!! you rock metallicar!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 This sounds a lot like work...OTM, have you figured out how you're going to do a roll-on stencil of the alien smear/chalk outline yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 Is there a UV clear-coat one can use over this stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 yup.... Wax lol. I believe they make sealers that you can buy to buff on... should act similar to a clear coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kellhammer Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 I sprayed some MINWAX indoor/outdoor spar Urethane on a test piece. I sanded the piece to 600 grit first. The gloss is great. It might be a way to minimized the sanding and possibly polishing the whole car. A quart can of this stuff might be available. Application to the lower half of the car is my thinking. You still would want to sand the clear with 600 or 800 before applying a second and third coat for durability. The upper half of the car could get additional sanding to 1000 or 1500 grit and polished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zV8 Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 I was thinking 4-5 coats minimum when spraying it. Rolling it looks like it goes on thicker for a single coat. My first coat is still alittle transparent, but it's only been about 16 hours and the paint is already fairly durable. Most other paints I can almost scrape the paint off with a finger nail but this stuff just marks alittle, should be really strong when it's cured. I love the fact that touch up's would be so easy with it. Imagine what you could do with the extra $1500 - $2500 you didn't spend on a paint job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roninjiro Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 240zv8... are you still doing this on a test piece or are you doing the car? if you are doing the test peice, i noticed it was galvanized. i say this b/c galvanized steel require a special paint from what i read recently and that may be why you can almost scrap the paint off with your fingernail. if you are not describing your test piece disregard this. b/s that how is your compressor handling the spraying? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted December 11, 2006 Author Share Posted December 11, 2006 the rolling puts it on thick but...you get low spots. You have to sand them out. Veritech: As soon as I can come up with a wicked neon green color I will put it over the gloss black. I'll probably get some pinstriping tape (like if I were doing flames) to do the outline and then add regular painters tape outside of the pinstripe tape to keep the rollover off. clearcoat: the problem is that you can't go back and sand more and do an easy repair. If you do a wax it would be fine but I would not do a clearcoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zV8 Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 240zv8... are you still doing this on a test piece or are you doing the car? if you are doing the test peice, i noticed it was galvanized. i say this b/c galvanized steel require a special paint from what i read recently and that may be why you can almost scrap the paint off with your fingernail. if you are not describing your test piece disregard this. b/s that how is your compressor handling the spraying? the rustoleum doesn't scratch off, I was talking about other auto paints that i've used. Within 16 hours of drying they would be easy to scratch, but the rustoleum is already really strong. I'm not sure about the difference when you want to paint galvanized, but it turned out fine. I was really happy with the compressor and paint gun, it only ran about 20% of the time, and I mixed the paint to about the consistancy of whip cream but alittle thinner. It wasn't watery, and it sprayed great. OTM there is one big benefit of regular autopaint, the flash time of 15-30 minuts between coats makes them better in that you can get a whole paintjob done in a day instead of one coat a day. But the overal price and touch up value makes it worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted December 11, 2006 Author Share Posted December 11, 2006 just finished about 1.5 hours of wetsanding my roof and then added another coat of rustoleum in 15 minutes including mixing time...lol Wetsanding is a LOT of work but it will be worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 We Neeeeeeeed Mooooore Pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted December 11, 2006 Author Share Posted December 11, 2006 tomorrow morning I will add the fourth coat to the roof and wetsand with 600 grit paper. then I will decide if I need to add another final coat before polishing. Once I get the roof done I will do the rear fenders, doors, and hood (you have to lean against the side of the car to sand the roof..). This is going to look soo great!!! I will go out tomorrow and get some 1000 and 1500 grit paper to get a good finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zV8 Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 tomorrow morning I will add the fourth coat to the roof and wetsand with 600 grit paper. then I will decide if I need to add another final coat before polishing. Once I get the roof done I will do the rear fenders, doors, and hood (you have to lean against the side of the car to sand the roof..).This is going to look soo great!!! I will go out tomorrow and get some 1000 and 1500 grit paper to get a good finish. you might wanna grab one of those $20 buffer's from HF, it will save ur arm...lol OTM, after you sand it, what do you clean it with before you roll again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted December 11, 2006 Author Share Posted December 11, 2006 I just wipe it down with mineral spirits. Works really well and already have the stuff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewievette Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 Would the "stops rust" work like the "professional"? I've been wandering around the rustoleum website the last couple of hours and I think I found a color I like, if it works the same I'm going to try this out in a week or so, when I get my engine back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted December 12, 2006 Author Share Posted December 12, 2006 The regular stops rust is NOT the SAME as the stops-rust "professional". I have seen people over on the mopar site that tried with regular and did not have very good results. It could be that it is just different paint though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewievette Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 This is what I'm looking at: http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=22&SBL=1 #7251 Cobalt Blue Metallic Maybe I'll get some and test it out on something. and if that doen't work I'll go back to plan A ...Safety Orange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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