dimsum Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 I was bolting the clutch cover onto a Fidanza aluminum flywheel, and the cover wasn't quite flush with the flywheel. I figured that as I tightened the six bolts, they would push the cover nice and snug against the flywheel. As I tightened, one of the bolts snapped. Not good. Now, I have part of a bolt stuck in my flywheel. There's about 1/4" of the bolt exposed. I tried using vice grips, but couldn't get the bolt to turn. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 Buy a set of easy outs at sears or something. Heres one from snap on but home depot, lowes, sears all sell them..... http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=1261&store=snapon-store Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/broken-bolts.shtml I have never had luck removing broken bolts with an extractor until I read the article above. Another option is to pull the Flywheel and take it into a machine shop Another option is to weld a nut onto the top of the broken stud. Careful you dont' overheat the aluminum flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 I wouldn't buy easy outs. You may well end up with the stuck in the end of the crank as well. Get left hand twist drills and drill it out. First center punch then remove. When you start drilling you'll probably find that backs it out at some stage. Then figure out why the bolt broke in the first place. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 Everyone always rags on easy outs. I've never in my life had one break on me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hartspank Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/broken-bolts.shtml I have never had luck removing broken bolts with an extractor until I read the article above. Sweet link, I found the part about stud strength pretty interesting,Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimsum Posted February 26, 2007 Author Share Posted February 26, 2007 Thanks for the article. I'll check it out. http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/broken-bolts.shtml I have never had luck removing broken bolts with an extractor until I read the article above. I've already pulled the flywheel. I am very inclined to take it to a machine shop if I can find one in the San Jose area. Shouldn't be too hard, I guess. The machine shop should be able to remove the broken bolt without damaging the flywheel, right? Another option is to pull the Flywheel and take it into a machine shop I never thought about that. I was a bit worried about overheating the aluminum as well. Another option is to weld a nut onto the top of the broken stud. Careful you dont' overheat the aluminum flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimsum Posted February 26, 2007 Author Share Posted February 26, 2007 Everyone always rags on easy outs. I've never in my life had one break on me. I noticed a lot of people on this board don't like Easy Outs. I've never used one but have to admit I have my hesitations based on other people's opinions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David K Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 I bet it didnt thread correctly and it ground the aluminum off and fused itself to the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DemonZ Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 I'll never use "easy outs" again if I can help it. I broke one in a brake caliper bleed nipple. I then took it to a machine shop for removal, where they told me I was hosed because the metal bit is VERY hard (and brittle), so they couldn't drill it out. They also said they don't use "easy outs" either. I've had decent luck with left handed drill bits, HF has a cheap set that works ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 I'll never use "easy outs" again if I can help it. I broke one in a brake caliper bleed nipple. I then took it to a machine shop for removal, where they told me I was hosed because the metal bit is VERY hard (and brittle), so they couldn't drill it out. They also said they don't use "easy outs" either. I've had decent luck with left handed drill bits, HF has a cheap set that works ok. A machine shop has the luxary of having half a million dollars worth of precision machinary. I dont think I would use a machine shop that would use a easy out, people like me that work out of a garage and have a shoe string budget on the other hand.... Easy out works just fine. The link is right on the money though, try a reverse bit 1st since you need to drill it anyway and if that doesnt work try a easy out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 Easy outs can be a pain! But can be the right tool depending on the situation. Sears has some called "Bolt Out" This is the set I have; and have used them a number of times. It has not failed me yet. As long at there is room for the teeth to start, as you turn your ratchet counter clockwise, the teeth dig into the OUTSIDE of the bolt to the point that they bottom out or start backing out the bolt. They are very hard and should work w/ the flywheel bolts you have. I imagine them working on just about anything short of tool steel. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00952160000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes Oh, and usually this will ruin the bolt head, if it's still there, but they DO work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 I love those craftmen bolt outs. I didnt suggest them though because he said he couldnt get a bite with vice grips. Not too sure there is enough protruding to use them if thats the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DemonZ Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 A machine shop has the luxary of having half a million dollars worth of precision machinary. I dont think I would use a machine shop that would use a easy out, people like me that work out of a garage and have a shoe string budget on the other hand.... Easy out works just fine. The link is right on the money though, try a reverse bit 1st since you need to drill it anyway and if that doesnt work try a easy out. I certainly agree with the reverse drill method. Right tool for the right job, you pays your money and takes your chances. In a pinch, a vice grip substitues for the proper 6 point socket, and a wrench for a hammer work just fine. But that's not really the best way to wrench. My machine shop doesn't use EO exactly because of what happened to me. Machinist said he sees this all the time, and " I don't know why they sell those things." So his costly machinery is not a luxury, it's a necessity. If they could extract broken studs RELIABLY and quickly with cheap EO, it would be silly of them not to. My experience is that often shortcuts add up to long cuts in the end. False economy. IF you can afford it, HF lefty drill set was like 5 bucks, and a cheap tap and die set (if it doesn't come out with lefty) is under $50. That will pay for itself with one machine shop visit. It's no sweat off my nose either way, I've been there done that both ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 I'm not saying their machinery is a luxury all and all I'm saying they have high cost tools there that can be used for the job that they have anyway to be used on many other jobs the average joe would have no need for. THAT is why they sell easy outs. I'm not really trying to argue though because I agree with most of what you said. There is always a right tool for the job I just happen to think that a easy out is one of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 Bet you put the clutch disc on backwards... If it doesnt sit flush all by itself, using the bolts to tighten it down is a bad idea. Just pointing that out for when you go to install it again. If you dont have reverse drill bits and a good tap and die set, get them. They will save your ass many times over. - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 I think the key to making the easy outs work, besides the left hand drill bits, is drilling a hole that is almost the full size of the busted bolt. That means you have to dead nuts center the pilot hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimsum Posted February 26, 2007 Author Share Posted February 26, 2007 One machine shop I spoke to recommended using electrical discharge machining (EDM) to get the bolt out. Supposedly, this is the best way and is least likely to damage the threads on the flywheel. I've never heard of EDM before. Then again, I've never had a bolt break off on me before, either. Does anybody have experience with EDM? Can anybody make a recommendation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vashonz Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 EDM is cool, kind of like a really precise CNC plasma cutter. It should be able to get the bolt out. But will require the hole to be re-tapped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WEBEZEEed Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 On my Fidanza I had to add a washer to the bolts, they bottomed out before they snuged up. Check to see if that might have been the cause of your problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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