proxlamus© Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 After doing some searching... I determined Cliftons ingenious solution to tearing rubber differential mounts was the best option for me. I just welded 2 tabs to the mount and they hung below the cross member. I drilled a hole.. inserted a bolt and nut.. and sandwiched a rubber fuel hose in between the bolt and cross member to avoid vibration and noise. Pictures speak for themselves. The Ron Tyler mount was an attractive idea.. but I dont have a close supplier of 3/16" steel anywhere close to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbleguinea Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 hmmmm i might be doing this soon....looks like an old headbolt that you used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 hmmmm i might be doing this soon....looks like an old headbolt that you used? for the demo piece on the top is what it looks like. but for the under-car shot, it seems like new hardware. s'like 3 bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted July 19, 2007 Author Share Posted July 19, 2007 yeh I have new hardware under the car now. But i used a old headbolt for lining everything up and for demo =) Cost me $1.29 total. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 That's pretty much what mine looks like except I dont have a welder so I used a couple of bolts in place of the weld. I mad a U-Shaped shackle, wrapped it under the crossmember and bolted it to the mount like that. I used a rubber sheet to insulate it on the bottom of the crossmember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 I am not sure what the mount looks like inside, but if you are trying to stiffen up the mount, why not fill the gaps (where rubber SHOULD have been but never was) with 3M winshield adhesive. It cures up stiff as Urethane and it's dirt cheap. I just thought I'd throw it out there. My apologies if it isn't applicable, but there are several other areas in the car where it may be handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 The problem with the stock mount is that the two pieces tend to separate under acceleration. Filling the void of rubber with anything other than a strong epoxy would do nothing to keep the diff from moving up under accel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 The problem with the stock mount is that the two pieces tend to separate under acceleration. Filling the void of rubber with anything other than a strong epoxy would do nothing to keep the diff from moving up under accel. OK. This sounds like a perfect candidate for that. It's 3M Fast Drying Urethane Window Adhesive. Adhesive, not sealant. It sticks pretty good and it's quite stiff. A lot of guys have used it on engine mounts and trans mounts with good success. Dunno, maybe the different loads here would cause an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 OK. This sounds like a perfect candidate for that. It's 3M Fast Drying Urethane Window Adhesive. Adhesive, not sealant. It sticks pretty good and it's quite stiff. A lot of guys have used it on engine mounts and trans mounts with good success. Dunno, maybe the different loads here would cause an issue. The fundamental problem is that the diff pulls away from the crossmember. If the crossmember were on top of the diff then it would compress, and a poly mount would work just fine. Since it pulls apart, I don't really think that putting a different type of rubber or poly in the void would help much at all. It might be good for the area between the strap or whatever is used (don't think it would work for a bolt) and the bottom of the crossmember. For the bolt, just go get some 1/2" fuel hose and slip it over. I think this is discussed in my diff FAQ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 strong epoxy is to be read as "infinitely strong epoxy" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted July 24, 2007 Author Share Posted July 24, 2007 your right Jon! I read your FAQ and built it after a good read! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 How did you weld the mount without destroying the rubber on the backside of the steel you were welding on? I am visualizing smoke, toxic fumes, and a ruined mount in my mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 I don't know how he did his but I tacked everything and then after I welded one side of the tab I would dunk it, dry it and do the next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheeler Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 Doesnt the limiting strap perform this function? What am I missing here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted August 2, 2007 Author Share Posted August 2, 2007 it did get a little hot and i would see smoke.. but i had a hose i would just spray on the mount to cool down. it works so thats all i care about lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 The limiting straps break very easily, and then the diff mount is left to do the job alone. It can't, so it will rip apart and the nose of the diff will rise up and hit the e-brake assy or the underside of the trans tunnel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Any chance the pic could be re-posted? Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New-to-240z Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 ^---- just asking the same thing. can the pics be reposted please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Yea Prox, I second the second...would like to see the fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sticky280zx Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 i third the third Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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