Boy from Oz Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 I'm very interested in this thread achieving its original aim. It's very enticing to follow the path made easier by the hard work of others and that's where I was heading - r200, CVs, Arizona Z mustache, etc. The big difficulty we have down here is that LSD r200 diffs taller than 4.11 are non-existent. No 3.54 Q45s, etc. What we do have is thousands of 3.07 IRS diffs that come with the GM LS1 powered vehicles - Commodores, Utes, etc. If you use a donor car it means you can utilise the whole drivetrain from the crankshaft to the outer CVs. I would have thought the diff is used in the States as well and wondered if anyone has considered this approach. I appreciate that it would mean designing a new mustache bar and front mount but has anyone gone down this path? This diff in image #1 is from a pre-LS1 powered vehicle but it looks very similar to that used in the LSI cars. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/STATESMAN-COMMODORE-V8-IRS-LSD-DIFF-ABS-VQ-VP-VR-VS-A_W0QQitemZ250169475493QQihZ015QQcategoryZ102360QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 29, 2007 Author Share Posted September 29, 2007 The issue would be making new axles with the appropriate ends on either side. The attractive thing about using the GM differential is that it comes with a selection of gears, and because GM vehicles are a fair amount heavier than the Zcar, you're guaranteed not to put the same amount of stress on them. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 The issue would be making new axles with the appropriate ends on either side... If I can use the GM CVs on both ends it would only mean a shortened axle and some adaptor for the outer end. I'm quessing that due to the hardening or raised splines the axles cannot be actually shortened and that new complete ones will have to made. As GM vehicles are so popular in motorsport down here I'm confident someone will be able to hob up a shortened version. The multiple choice of ratios is, as you say, an exciting prospect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdv350ss Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 I've only posted a few times, but have been reading HybridZ almost ever night for three years. I'm putting together battle plans for my LSx 240Z swap but I'm still very much a greenhorn. I'm very interested in this thread. The rear drivertrain is certainly one of the weak links with limited options. Since the Jag IRS setup has already been mentioned I was wondering if anyone has seen this "custom" IRS setup from these guys, Concours West. Thoughts? http://www.cwiinc.com/jagsuspensions.htm I respect greatly the level of knowledge which is shared here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetride2go Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 CWI makes vary nice stuff, well engineered and a lot of CNC work too... ive been to their shop, since its just a half hour up the road, and seeing their product first hand... however its quite expensive, and i might question its ability to really be 'strong' enough, even though they offer setups w/ a 'quickchange' diff, and a chevy diff... although the guy w/ the 510 is putting a lot of power down on a jag style rearend... it would be great to find out if CSI's rearend would hold up under roadracing and or dragracing... anyone care to sponsor me w/ one??? lol the guys there are pretty kool to deal w/ to, and didnt seem to mind us just droping by their shop, wich was kool... ryan~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 Hoping this thread gets some traction (pun intended). I have purchased a GM diff and it's a bit scary as everything seems to be going okay. Firstly, the weight; only measured on bathroom scales but came in at 74lbs. I think the r200s are 72lbs and I know from my chiropractor that the r230 is 117lbs. So the weight looks good. Secondly, the fit; as you can see from the pictures there are no real dramas at this stage. It looks as though it can be mounted with the axle centerline somewhere between 2"-3" closer to the floor pan than the original 240z diff installation. I'm not too sure about the moustache bar at this stage. It may be possible to retain the original and use a triangular bracket to attach the two vertical mounting points on the rear of the diff (considered as one point of the triangle) to the two existing mounting holes in the moustache bar. This would mean mounting the diff 1"-2" further forward from where it is pictured, creating a misalignment with the wheel hubs, though I understand this is standard practice on the Porsche. It looks as though a variation on the R/T front mount should be possible. The PCD of the bolts on the CV is 95mm and I think they are 112mm on the r230. If it is not possible to have the MM adaptors machined to the smaller PCD then I should be able to get away with using a spacer drilled and tapped to the different PCD's on each side. One thing I noticed is that the CVs are secured only with screws - I have observed how most people seem to use bolts and nuts for this connection. The screws should allow for a much neater adaptor and they could be lockwired or tabbed for extra assurance. Unlikely to be working on the project for the next month but will post an update when I resume. If anyone can see that I've missed something please comment. Thanks. Sorry for the mix of imperial and metric measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted November 3, 2007 Share Posted November 3, 2007 Here are some photos of a simple mock-up rear mounting bracket - I figure I'll will probably need something stronger than cardboard for the real thing! Although the standard moustache bar is shown here I will have to construct a new one that run basically straight between the two attachment points of the standard bar. That is, the diff mounting holes will be approximately 50mm forward of the standard position and 50mm closer to the floor of the car. This should leave the centre of the diff output flanges in line with the wheel hubs and about 20mm closer to the floor of the car. Some strengthening webs would be added to the final bracket, particularly at the 90 degree bends. Any feedback at this point would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 http://1speedway.com/irs_quickchange.htm Yum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Looks good Oz boy, the important design thing to do is to work out the various loadings and then make sure they are incorporated into the design work. From what you have said it seems you have thought it all through, thats the secret. Pics when its all done eh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetride2go Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 hows the progress Oz??? any new developments??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted September 13, 2008 Administrators Share Posted September 13, 2008 hows the progress Oz??? any new developments??? Yeupsie doodle... Update here; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138675 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carguyinok Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 OK, So I have been reading the postings on the Jag rear ends and have not seen much of any photo's of one. So here is my Jag IRS. I picked up a 87 Jag XJ6 on ebay with a locked up motor for $150.00. Pulled the rear end I wanted and parted the rest of the car out on ebay for just over $500. I had plans in putting this under my 73 240Z with a wide body kit. Once I had this sitting at the shop I had a change of mind. Only because it's just way to cool looking ta hide under a full body car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted March 9, 2009 Author Share Posted March 9, 2009 Can you post some specs and dimensions of that rear diff setup? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carguyinok Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 Sure, I will get them later today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carguyinok Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Sorry it took me a few days. I didnt have any help yet. So just putting the tape on the floor and eyeballing it I came up with about 62" from outer hub-outer hub. I should have some help later tonight and get you a dead on number. I will go over it good later tonight. I will get the size of the mounting cage, distance between mounts, and how deep it would need too sit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben280 Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 So I am going to bump this from oblivion with what I hope to be a relevant update! I'd say this is the ultimate non-conventional diff option. https://www.sikky.com/view_item.php?id=203&catid=14 Gives me some ideas too about how to adapt a winters QC into the Z cars, and making a mustache bar that would support the whole thing. Hope this is seen in the spirit of the thread, rather than poking a dinosaur. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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