Tony D Posted November 25, 2007 Share Posted November 25, 2007 Speaking from a cheapskate point of view, there is a product available at Lowe's and Home Depot that is designed for freeze protection on Eaves of Roofs. It's a self-sealing ice-prevention tar compound, with a self-adhesive back. It works GREAT for the floorboards and anyplace else you want to stick sound deadener. It's CHEAP, and comes in rolls 36" wide. You guys may want to check it out if you are looking for generic sound deadener comparable to the stock stuff! You can layer it and increase the mass for more deadening capability like Dynamat, but for a fraction of the cost. I wish I had the name, but it's pretty obvious when you go to the shingle section of the Home Improvement Warehouses what you are looking for...it's sticky on one side, self sealing, and meant for eaves. When you see how much you get for the cost...you start thinking 'brand names be damned, I'm gonna try this!' LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78280z Posted November 26, 2007 Author Share Posted November 26, 2007 I tried the dry ice method and it worked great for the deadening on the tranny tunnel but doesn't help for the deadening on the driver and passenger floorpans. Again, I think it's because theres some sort of insulating material mixed in with the adhesive. I might have to try out the heat gun method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyZ Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 Worked fine for me on all of the deadening material. I had to hit the stuff pretty hard with a hammer to get it to break up though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doczg Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 I believe the home depot stuff you are talking about it Peel'N'Seel or something like that... i have heard really good things about it in other forums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
283VZ Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 I believe the home depot stuff you are talking about it Peel'N'Seel or something like that... i have heard really good things about it in other forums. I tried this stuff. I'm still kicking the leftover roll around the garage. My results where not up to my expectations maybe I applied it wrong. The heat of summer,mixed with heat from the exhaust & trans made the stuff slide down the trans tunnel onto the floor in a gooey mess. Funny how when you type or write something, it will connect dots.. My trans overheated soon after.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsun260Z Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 Speaking from a cheapskate point of view, there is a product available at Lowe's and Home Depot that is designed for freeze protection on Eaves of Roofs. It's a self-sealing ice-prevention tar compound, with a self-adhesive back. It works GREAT for the floorboards and anyplace else you want to stick sound deadener. It's CHEAP, and comes in rolls 36" wide. You guys may want to check it out if you are looking for generic sound deadener comparable to the stock stuff! You can layer it and increase the mass for more deadening capability like Dynamat, but for a fraction of the cost. I wish I had the name, but it's pretty obvious when you go to the shingle section of the Home Improvement Warehouses what you are looking for...it's sticky on one side, self sealing, and meant for eaves. When you see how much you get for the cost...you start thinking 'brand names be damned, I'm gonna try this!' LOL That's a great tip. We use that stuff up here all the time. We call it "Ice shield" I believe. However, does it smell? And I can't recall, isn't it sticky on both sides? If so, did you just top it with aluminum foil? Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janaka Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 the home depot stuff is asphalt based, it will smell in the heat. and as mentioned two post us if it gets extremely hot it will slide/melt. Thats whats nice about automotive sound deadener, its meant to be in extreme temps and still stick. 95% of automotive deadeners are also not asphalt anymore to get away from the smell in the heat too. on the elemental designs website they show their deadener in an oven at voer 400*F and no real ill effects that i remember. check it out. for $.80/sqft its dirt cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iamdoughnut Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 Hey, while we're on this subject...what's the purpose of the holes the factory leaves in the bottoms of the floor? drainage? cabin pressure equalization? dy-lithium crystalization? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hey_Allen Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 On my car, the only holes I see are drain holes (and the hole from someone running over something, but that's another matter...) I'm going to have to find a few rubber floor plugs to cap those holes once I get the car back on the road! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smoorenc Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 www.steelerubber.com has all of those plugs. Back of the catalog or just call with size and they have them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelToad Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 Hey, while we're on this subject...what's the purpose of the holes the factory leaves in the bottoms of the floor? drainage? cabin pressure equalization? dy-lithium crystalization? I always thought it was so you could take a quick glance down to identify the parts passing by after you hear "crunch-bang-clank" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdiabetezx66x Posted April 14, 2008 Share Posted April 14, 2008 My 260 has nothing as far as firewall protection or sound deadening material. Is the dynomat stuff the most economical while still being pretty effective to use over the entire interior? including the firewall? or should I find something else for that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janaka Posted April 14, 2008 Share Posted April 14, 2008 My 260 has nothing as far as firewall protection or sound deadening material. Is the dynomat stuff the most economical while still being pretty effective to use over the entire interior? including the firewall? or should I find something else for that? dynamat is quite expensive IMO, there are others (eDead, Brownbread etc) that will do the same job for considerably less. I used edead for my doors/floors/tunnel/spare well areas and probably spent no more than $65 if I had to guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdiabetezx66x Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 has anyone ever used dynOmat? It's only 99 bucks for 150 sq feet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 I want to try this one... but I haven't gotten around to interior yet... It costs $30 for 40 sqft and weighs .8oz per square foot. I would probably double up on thickness in most areas. Light weight would be the goal. I like the concept of this one over the type with bubbles in it because there are no bubbles to pop and it achieves pretty much the same goal http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Automotive-Heat-Sound-Insulation-Auto-Car-Boat-RV-Quiet_W0QQitemZ330226741178QQihZ014QQcategoryZ46094QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Being so light weight, I highly doubt it will be able to dampen the low tones very well, but it might be worth a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdiabetezx66x Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 decided to go with the e-dead. at a buck per/sq foot, it's pretty cheap and i have read some good things about it. i guess we'll see. things are moving along nicely and Tmart (my dad) thinks we can have the car running in about 2 months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thetremendoustim Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 dynamat is quite expensive IMO, there are others (eDead, Brownbread etc) that will do the same job for considerably less. I used edead for my doors/floors/tunnel/spare well areas and probably spent no more than $65 if I had to guess. Hey I'm considering either edead or fatmat extreme off of ebay. Which would you recommend for my 2+2? I will definately not be afraid to double coat it if it reduces road noise, etc...I don't want to be able to hear any noise from outside, I'm not going for too much of a sports car feel since I have a 2+2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janaka Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 Hey I'm considering either edead or fatmat extreme off of ebay. Which would you recommend for my 2+2? I will definately not be afraid to double coat it if it reduces road noise, etc...I don't want to be able to hear any noise from outside, I'm not going for too much of a sports car feel since I have a 2+2 I personally haven't used the fat mat product so I can't really make a comment on it. I have used eDead a lot and have nothing but good things to say about it. easy to apply, cheap to buy, great end result even with the V1 version (cheapest). If you buy edead type in forum discount in their search engine on the site and you will get 20% off IIRC any edead product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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