RUSSJZ-ZED Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 this car will have no AC or power steering, and I am replacing my hydrofan setup with an mk4 waterpump with electric fans. Actually the motor is not as big as it looks:p Looking good, the motor with all accessories you have on in the pic will fit with no mods if you want the creature comforts- just drop the whole lot down the hole... it works,don't fix it, the power steer is definately worth hanging on to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z_cars_rule Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 don't listen to him ^^^ hehe j/k lose all that weight, PS is not needed, AC is a luxury, just give yourself room for bigger manifolds and plumbing, and still be easy to change the oil / belts on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo1jz Posted February 8, 2008 Author Share Posted February 8, 2008 Looks like we're both going at this project the same exact way! The only difference is I have no fuel cell, I'm using EZ Wiring instead of Painless ($180 cheaper than Painless), and I'm fabricating my own crossmember. Great build. What are your plans with the car? Road racing, drag, etc.? the car is setup to just be a badass street car to dominate the high class Italian sports cars around where I live. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theianmonster Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 Sounds fun. Mine is a highway/drift car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo1jz Posted February 17, 2008 Author Share Posted February 17, 2008 Got some new pics for you guys. I made the mount for the fuel cell. It is a Summit Racing 16 gallon tank with foam, a 2" sump, and sending unit. Its all done but I am currently now finishing putting sheet metal on the top to make it look clean. The sump hangs about 1" from the bottom of my dented up roll pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z_cars_rule Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 looks good, I love it when i spot a fuel cell sump on a street car, usually a good hint that there is something not normal going on, like the local SR20 400rwhp escort that sounds like a stocker. hehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo1jz Posted March 5, 2008 Author Share Posted March 5, 2008 some new pics, welded the new crossmember in, and just cleaning up the engine bay before paint. The engine bay has been seem welded and got rid of all of the factory wire harness holder clamps, cannot stand the look of them. Got rid of the big holes on the firewall that will not be used so I can make a new one for my 1jz harness to be in the correct location. And yes I will not be running a heater in this car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_478 Posted March 9, 2008 Share Posted March 9, 2008 Now that looks very firmiliar I just got done repairing all of the holes and rust damage in my engine bay for my 2JZ. Looks good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted March 9, 2008 Share Posted March 9, 2008 Nice progress, keep up the good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titus_RacerX Posted March 9, 2008 Share Posted March 9, 2008 You are doing all this work OUTSIDE? In the DIRT? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo1jz Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 I am just doing the welding and engine bay stuff (paint) before the motor goes in. I have a spot on cement that I will move the car to when the engine is ready to drop in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo1jz Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 spent hours completely sanding and smoothing the engine bay. Got it primered and pretty much ready for paint. Here is the new hole in the correct spot for the 1jz harness grommet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 looks superb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo1jz Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 Nice progress, keep up the good work I wish my car was done up as nice as yours bro!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 I wish my car was done up as nice as yours bro!! LOL!! At the rate I am going, yours will be on the road before I get mine back on the road!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Try this, While everything is acessable, good time to get rid of the primitive accelerator linkage/elbow on the firewall. Cut the top inch off the end of the accelerator arm inside the cabin, weld on the equivilent piece of the lever from a series 5 Celica from a junkyard,(grab the cable at the same time)The throttle body end of the Celica cable is the same as the 1/2J fitting. Makes the pedal to engine a bit more direct, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo1jz Posted March 11, 2008 Author Share Posted March 11, 2008 Thanks a bunch russ! I wasn't sure on what route to go on the throttle cable, so you helped me out a bunch. Your build up has been a huge help for me as well as an inspiration. Any idea on what years were the series 5 celicas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Series 5 were about 1989 to early 1994 last of the ones with pop up lights, I think they may even have shared the same cable with the series 4 as well. Removing without a workshop manual. When you find one in a junk yard, from memory it's unhook from throttle body, then from the inside of cabin above the pedal, there are 2 bolts(nuts?) undo, cable pulls through firewall to inside, hard to see where it goes, but once the two bolts are undone a good pull will drag it through. It has an alloy plate on the cabin side, I seem to remember triming this plate to give a bit of strength to the plastic bracket that can be seen on pic of end of cable,Leave cable intact, when the cable is pushed through the firewall of the Dat,from inside(same way that it fitted in Celica) only needs two holes drilled through for mounting bolts,cable will not even need altering,It all just fits. weld the top of Celica pedal lever onto the Dat one at a height to match the firewall hole. My welding can be shamefully bad, like on that lever:ugg:, figured nobody would see it. Your car is going to be a beast. Love it! Update, found a spare cable, added pic of cable ends, also realised that cable lenght of Left and right hand drive Celicas may be different, The R/H one I used had an outer cable that was just on 30 inches long, for a L/H drive you will only need about 24 inches. Update/2 (all that information because it is not an easy remove from a R/H drive Celica) if Toyota used same cable ends on Celica and Chaser, chances are they were used on other models , check out Toyota USA local models, very easy cable type to fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo1jz Posted March 12, 2008 Author Share Posted March 12, 2008 DAMN!! I can't believe how perfect yours turned out. Thats exactly what I am going to do. I'll check out the local junk yard and look at the celica one and some other toyota cables and figure out what length will be good. Thanks a bunch for the info! You are the man! Do you get enough leverage out of the mofifyed 240z pedal to open the throttlebody all the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Do you get enough leverage out of the mofifyed 240z pedal to open the throttlebody all the way? work it out when you weld the Celica piece onto the Z lever, pull the cable through till it's wide open then weld in that position, Even if you are slightly out, not a problem, just put some heat on the Dat lever and bend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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