Guest Asta-Rolf's Sis Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 My bad! Wonder if you have any functional Wiper Motor parts for this '71 240Z classic that will work and the price. Not even sure that the motor is the problem. Again, I'm/we're not mechanically inclined, LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3sev3n Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 I know theres more wisdom on the site I need more wisdom!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Icehound Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 ttt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Asta-Rolf's Sis Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 This is really helpful, thanks! Would the weather-stripping materials from ACE work for a 1971 Datsun 240z for the hatch area (rear window) where they are dry and brittle? Couldn't upload here, will try again when I get more snapshots of the problem area.... maybe this link will help you see (although I'm not sure that one was included) ... http://www.dropshots.com/astaccs But could also be here: http://www.asta.bizhosting.com/240Z-PhotoOverview.htm Will get back with more photos after this weekend... DRAT, just couldn't upload the shots I took of that area, and hope to return soon with more. If I've stepped in where I shouldn't, apologies. So much to learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted October 24, 2008 Author Share Posted October 24, 2008 If it generates enough ideas we'll sticky it... LARRY So how bout it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3sev3n Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 sticky!!!! sweet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 I use Suzuki motorcycle mirrors for my rear view mirrors. Using self-tapping screws they bolt to the A-pillar. They were like $80 each new retail but this was before I ebayed. They look trick and they do not wilt at high speed like most other after market mirrors. I'll post some pix eventually... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3sev3n Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 good one dhp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Icehound Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 I use Suzuki motorcycle mirrors for my rear view mirrors. Using self-tapping screws they bolt to the A-pillar. They were like $80 each new retail but this was before I ebayed. They look trick and they do not wilt at high speed like most other after market mirrors. I'll post some pix eventually... It would be awsome to see how they look on your car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 I want to see those pictures as well! On the 60mm TB + Cable throttle swap I used one of the linkages from the mechanical setup to link the pedal to the TB. I cut off the other ball on the link, heated up the end, and bent it over to make a loop. That way it's easy to disconnect if the intake needs to come off, and there is no welding involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 Here are some general pictures of the motorcycle mirrors I use for my rear views. They work awesome except when open the doors the end of the mirror can collide with the window weatherstrip. That's such a small negative for all the positives that these provide. Phone cam is the best I have, sorry try to enjoy!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted November 6, 2008 Share Posted November 6, 2008 MSA just started selling a kit consisting of two aluminum caps that fit over the caps which top the master cylinder. The kit costs $34.95 and does not include the clutch cylinder. I was at the junkyard and in a flash of inspiration remembered the wheel caps which came on the standard rims of the first gen. 300 ZX. Lo and behold it's a dead fit, at least on the plastic caps, I am not too sure about the metal ones. Just break off the tines which keep it pressed into the rim, clean it up, shoot it with a little clear coat and mount it with a dollop of RTV. Total cost; $6.00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted November 6, 2008 Share Posted November 6, 2008 I was at the junkyard and in a flash of inspiration remembered the wheel caps which came on the standard rims of the first gen. 300 ZX. Lo and behold it's a dead fit, at least on the plastic caps, I am not too sure about the metal ones. Just break off the tines which keep it pressed into the rim, clean it up, shoot it with a little clear coat and mount it with a dollop of RTV. Total cost; $6.00 A+++!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvmy280zxt Posted November 7, 2008 Share Posted November 7, 2008 I know this is a funny question but wat is a bung? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted November 7, 2008 Author Share Posted November 7, 2008 A+++!!! Agreed, I love that one!:icon14::icon14::icon14::icon14::icon14::icon14::icon14: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filmjay Posted November 8, 2008 Share Posted November 8, 2008 Here is a great site regarding DIY coil overs. It shows instructions, and where you can buy the parts to DIY. http://www.geocities.com/bry593/coilover/coilover.htm THIS I love! /right-click, /bookmark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zclubhouse Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Heres the list of things I have learned in the past year. Probably common knowledge but I wish I had known this when I started! Do the job right the first time. Having to redo anything wastes time and money. If you don't know how to do something, ask. Winging it rarely provides you with the result you were hoping for. When wiring anything, have a good mechanical connection (crimp), then solder it, then shrink wrap it. Do NOT think that a pair of pliers and a box of cheap solderless fitting are the way to go. Its worth the time up front to not spend time chasing down electrical ghosts! Learned this one the hard way. Form a cabinet of knowledgeable and trustworthy friends/advisors. Alot of things we do to Z cars are not Z car specific, meaning that old guy you know with a hot rod chevy has a lot of useable information that can help you with whatever you are trying to do. Look around your garage at all that crap you have piling up... Sell it and fund your current project! Of course its nice to have a huge pile of car parts, but I would not have been able to finish my 240z if I had kept onto my pack-rat habits. Who needs that intake manifold off the truck you sold 3 years ago? Not you. Buy a welder or find one you can use. It may not seem like "saving money" when you spend money on this, but its way cheaper to do things yourself than to pay someone else. I used to have a z with rusted out floor pans. Now I dont and I basically paid for the welder in what I saved from not paying someone else. Use the right tool for the job. I have broken things simply because I was in a rush and ended up breaking the part itself. Get a collection of small plastic bags and put whatever you take off of the car into them and label the contents. You may think that you will remember that you put those mounting bolts for your dash on top of the snowblower, but 5 months later when you are looking for them, they will be gone and you will have to go and buy new hardware. Every little bit you can save adds up. Think before you buy anything shiny. Polished or chrome doesn't mean faster, stronger or better. Don't replace it unless its broken or you derive some benefit from doing so. On a race car looking better does not qualify. Also, before you buy something, find 3 other similar products and compare. It sucks to buy something and then find out that you could've had what you really needed. Autometer 2 5/8' gauges fit right into the stock gauge holes. A bit of single sided adhesive foam strip locks them in there just right and they do not shake. Brackets can be make to hold them in place to the stock bracket location from thin sheet aluminum with tin snips and a handheld drill. Autometer 5 inch tach fits right into the tachometer hold as well. You can even use the dash mounting bracket inside the dash, just drill two holes and use self tapping screws. JB weld can solve alot of your problems. Welding cable is cheaper than alot of 2 gauge battery cable and works great for grounds. Cardboard wrapped in black felt works pretty good for door cards. You can cut out the original mounting holes and still attach your armrest. Better than always cutting your arm on the metal or spending lots of money on a matching set. The Autozone Help section sometimes has that weird part you think you will never be able to find alot cheaper than you thought you could get it. Do as much diagnostic work as you can stand before you start pitching money blindly at a problem. Before you decide to sideline your car for a project, outline every individual cost of the upgrade besides just the major part itself. Its easy to think that a gauge only costs fifty bucks and then you end up having to spend close to 100 once you buy the adaptors and other misc bits to make it work. If your door is hard to shut and seems to hang too low, you can put a block of wood just underneath the bottom edge of the door and apply a little pressure with a floor jack (dont lift the car off the ground.) Often this will tweak your hinges up just a bit and the door will close smooth and easy. Use the classifieds on this site! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z!!! Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 always always compare prices....example....ive been searching for a clutch master cylinder for a week....advanced auto parts was 39.00....autozone was 32.00(which keeps it in stock)....so i was gonna get it from autozone until i thought to call napa this morning...napa had it in stock for 24.99 and it was very very similar to the original...that extra money paid for my shifter bushings....think of how many parts you have or will buy for the z....if you do this for every part it will add up quick... also dont just throw away z parts....i was talking to a buddy 2day that owns a 72 z and he sold the little piece of metal that holds up the hood (so it dont fall on your head) for 7 bucks on ebay....its not much but he's sold countless parts like this that were given to him by other z owners and he's funded his whole restoration with this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Okay, so my car is basically done. It's where I want it to be and all there is to do is routine maintenance. I just looked at one of those shaved and painted intake manifolds and the lightbulb went off in my head , " I could do that ". Help, I can't stop!!!! Of course I would powder coat mine instead of painting it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z8 Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 Speaking of rust! I found this vid while I was searching for a solution to my bushing removal. This definately qualifies for the budget resto: http://www.brightcove.tv/title.jsp?title=572020791&channel=537308532 I don't suppose someone downloaded this vid. The site is now dead and gone! Video no longer available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts